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Voies dans Mt Ololokwe area pour la cotation selectionnée

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Affichant les 13 voies total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Popularité
Ololokwe main face
E1 UKT:4c Guiness and Goat

A route heading straight up to the right side of the pillar. The climb starts on the top of a ramp near a small tree (possible to climb a first pitch below). All belays are bolted (enabling abseil if you bring your own karabiners/maillons). The route is mixed trad/bolts and is very runout as it was bolted ground up.

  1. 45m. Head up tending leftwards to cross a small overhang, then clip a bolt. Continue straight up to a nice belay ledge.

  2. 50m. From the ledge, head left to cross small overhangs then head straight up, clipping a bolt on the way. Stay on the rock to the right of a cascade of grass. The belay is at the top of the grass on a nice grassy ledge.

  3. Traverse right for a couple of meters, then head straight up, clipping one bolt on the way. Belay in a black scoop.

  4. Head up tending slightly leftwards. The rock isn't so good on this pitch but bolts protects the worst parts (still runout).

  5. Traverse a bit right, then up and a bit more right to clip a bolt. Then head straight up, one more bolt. Aim between two grassy ledges, clipping one bolt. The left ledge has a palm tree sticking out, that's where the belay is.

  6. Head straight up to the small steepening at the top of the slab. Clip one bolt below the steepening, then traverse right to a large cave above a big palm tree.

  7. Belay on roots (no bolts) to traverse right and up out of the cave. Final belay on a tree.

Variation: A thrilling finish heading directly up the tree roots to the roof overhang above the large cave was climbed by Peter Naituli and Ian Lekiluai on the 3rd ascent (17th March 2022).

Access: you can abseil from the top, or walk to the bottom of the route. Walking, get to the bottom of the cliff, then stay low while you aim for the big rock with orange overhangs separated from the main wall. Walk around that wall and find a way up (some scramble might be needed). There's a small flat spot on top of some white rocks to camp. Abseil: walk to the end of the tourist path, then walk along the cliff to a boulder tucked inside a forest. Follow a rough trail down. You can ask MCK for a GPS track. Find your way into the cave, then get to the first belay and abseil down the route (two 60m ropes needed), it's more or less straight but easy to miss a belay.

FA: climbingfish, Emmanuel F & Julian Wright, 25 Juil 2021

Trad mixte 290m, 7, 19
Cat
HVS UKT:4c Pussy
1 HVS 4c 45m
2 HVS 4c 15 m

Start a short way up from the traverse left of Bone People, at the base of the corner leading straight up to notch between the Cat’s ears on the SE side.

  1. 45m 4c. Up corner to 2nd tree, traverse L to a grassy area then up and back R to comfortable ledge and poor belays.

  2. 15m 4c. Up corner awkwardly, chockstone runner, to gain ledge then easier climbing to the notch.

FA: Dickson Kibaara Mutunga, Mike Mavroleon & Andrew Wielochowski, 17 Juil 2015

Trad 60m, 2
Snake Temple
{US} 5.9 Front Fang

A good warmup for what the Temple has to offer. The route is short enough to be a high boulder problem though the landing would make for a devastating fall. Thus 'The Ololokwe Golf Club' took it upon themselves to make it a short and sweet sport climb.

FA: Peter Naituli, Ian Lekiluai & Gabriel Jackson, 25 Juin 2022

Sportive 13m, 4
{US} V0 Garden Snake

Up the arete. Don't use the wall to the right

FA: Peter Naituli, 5 Juin 2022

Bloc
{US} V0 Little Hiss

This little highball ascends the easy crack on the left hand sector of the temple. Be ware of loose blocks at the top.

FA: Peter Naituli, 4 Juin 2022

Bloc 8m
{US} V0 Nathaniel The Serpent Wrangler

Left of Little Hiss. A rounded bastion of rock between the two chimneys provides pleasant climbing for the un-initiated.

FA: Nathaniel Kiarie, 11 Juin 2022

Bloc
Ololokwe Bouldering Riverbed Boulders Garden of Sounds
{US} V0 Musta-aukkoaurinko

Stand-start on the left-hand edge of the boulder. Mantle up onto the big ledge and up to finish.

FA: Henrik, 30 Nov. 2020

Bloc
Ololokwe Bouldering Roadside Boulders Roadside Boulder
{US} V0 Warmup

Up the slab on the left side of the boulder.

FA: Alexandra Schweikart, Août 2017

Bloc
{US} V0 No Hands Challenge

Up the slab to the right of Warmup. Originally done with no hands, Johnny Dawes style - give it a go!

FA: Alexandra Schweikart, Août 2017

Bloc
Baboon Cliff
{FR} 5b Luggas

Fairly consistent, moderate slab climbing, with a few delicate moves in the upper section

Sportive 20m
{FR} 5a Leicht Beaut

Shorter climb on far right with higher start in chimney and anchor sitting lower down.

Sportive 15m
{US} 5.9 Efthimia

Efthimia is elusive and beautiful. A climber's delight.

Efthimia can be found in a small crag among dense bush and lush trees, approximately 300m to the North-West of the Sabache eco-lodge gate. The crag is split by a large rock outcrop. This route is found on the right-hand side of the outcrop.

On the very edge of the aforementioned outcrop, a crack begins which climbs up and across to the very top of the rock face. The route is as follows:

  1. 15m - Start in the far left corner of the crag, climb crack to a good platform (avoid the dodgy tree).

Build anchor in crack.

  1. 20m - Continue along the widening crack for 3-5 m until reaching a roof section with nice pockets. Climb straight up.

Once reached, the summit provides a wave of gratification, as well as solid trees.

FA: Bernard Moulins & Sean Grobler, 21 Avr 2019

Trad 35m, 2
Camel Cliff
{US} 5.8 Putting Mirko to sleep

(Most of this write up was taken from the MCK write up, as it's a slightly different route to the original (unnamed) route thats written up currently)

This route offers varied and protected climbing on good rock. At the right end of the SW-facing cliff a prominent tree grows some 10m up the cliff. A 5min walk gains the cliff.

  1. 10 m 5a. A short, steep unprotected wall is climbed on small positive holds, move right across a ledge to scoop and hence up to the tree.

  2. 25 m 5a. Move up to steep corner and climb crack on good holds to easier ground and a reasonable belay, building your anchor in a medium sized crack.

  3. 20m Traverse. Move up about 2m from the Belay and then start traversing left. Will get to a good platform to rest on and a tree far left to rap down from. Drop is about 40m.

Trad 55m, 3

Affichant les 13 voies total.

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