Noeuds dans Taita Hills

Potential climbing area with lots of rocks.

Name to be confirmed. This is the cliff with the waterfall to the left of the road from Mwatate to Wundanyi, just beyond Dembwa shops. The crag is shown on the Taita Hills sheet 189/4 in square 2719.

A route yielding unusual experiences.

1. 30 m. Start up the roots in the left-hand chimney and past the tree. At about 21 m the chimneying becomes severe for some moves. A good pitch ending either at 34 m at a chockstone and stance, or at 40 m in the Bird of Doom Cave (high peg in place).

2. 18 m. (or 12 m from the cave). The Root Pitch (first crux). A long thin root, occasionally attached to the rock, leads up from the cave to a tree. Traverse out of the cave and either enter the outward—sloping chimney with difficulty using the root a little for the left foot and continuing with some effort (at least V.S.) or climb the root of the tree (V.S. in character, unnerving). Belay to the tree.

3. 15 m. The corner and nose give pleasant climbing to a platform.

4. 24 m. Past large blocks to a corner. An overhang at 12 m gives a technical move. Belay in trees.

5. 9 m. Climb a tree and break through vicious palm fronds to a major recess.

6. 37 m. The Traverse of the Crows, From right inside the cave traverse outwards chimneying until the walls widen, Belly crawl under a low roof and then continue easily in excellent position to a grassy haven and a huge belay. An enjoyable pitch.

7. 9 m. Climb the rock and vegetation. Awkward. A peg was used for direct aid on the first ascent. Anchor to low horizontal trunk.

8. 24 m. (Second crux, V.S.). Start in the crack and traverse onto the slab. Where this steepens at about 11 m move delicately right to enter the twin cracks which give an energetic and fitting finish into thickening bush.

The conspicuous face some miles south of the Voi—Taveta road. Features two routes with probably scope for more.

Approach: From the north side, walk up the path to the school on the ridge west of Goi. Then turn back along the ridge path towards Goi, with a deviation to the left to avoid a precipice. Reach a gap between the ridge and Goi Rock.

1. 61 m. Traverse round vegetation leftwards to the bottom of a steep chimney in a corner.

2. 27 m. Climb the chimney (some dirt) to a cave, then through this to easy climbing to the top.

The Great Chimney on the north side of Goi is entered from the right across a grass ledge and minute flakes - V.S.

Reach the scoop (bolt)* for belay. One more pitch, H.V.S. with one bolt*, reaches the chimney proper. Follow this for 244 m to the top (S. to V.S.).

Descend from bolt on the western end of the rock.

• The first party removed the screws and hangers from these two bolts. They are available for future ascents on application to Ian Howell (note from 2023 editor: Ian Howell is no longer with us but the MCK would be happy to provide new bolts for future ascentionists).

A field of boulders on the shambas just below the wall of Wesu.

A pretty boulder with two cracks running up the center of it. Loads of texture with the most climbs on it.

The aret on the climber's left of the boulder

Start matched low in the crack (sit start) before climbing more or less straight up to top out on small edges and slopers at the top

Sit start matched on the lowest crimp below the wide crack (climbers' right). Climb up the crack with decent hand jams to top out.

start matched on horizontal crimp rail and ascend directly up the rounded aret on the climber's right of the boulder.

Big, square boulder closest to the road

'He who is selective of his jembe is not a true farmer' A semi highball on the side facing the road. Start sit or crouched near the aret and make your way straight up the face.

Scramble up the aret to the left of 'Mchagua jembe'. The first ascent was done pad less and barefoot

Many boulders sit on or around peoples farms. Be respectful and don't walk over anyones' crops.

Round the aret, left of dragon glass. Sit start with hands matched at the base of the crack. Proceed up and right along sloping edges to the top

Sit start on the obsidian patch of rock. Start from two small edges and proceed straight up, using the aret to the left where necessary. The wide rock ledge in the pit to the left is off limits. This makes for a much more quality problem.

a small boulder in the middle of the field with a roof under which farmers at times place large chunks of wood.

start matched in crack undercling before making moves left and over the lip to finish.