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Noeuds dans Time Wave Buttress

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Affichant les 7 noeuds total.

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Time Wave Buttress

Vegetated buttress between "The Surf Bowl" and "The Outrage Wall" with one of the longest climbs in Potrero Chico.

5.12a Time Wave Zero

Fantastic climb!!!! Careful on the raps, knot end of ropes to be sure!

The 5.12a can be french freed.

[dagibbs edit note, 2012] Neither Dane's guide (The Whole Enchilada, 2007) nor Ed's book (Climb El Potrero Chico, 17th ed 2012) mention this route, or anything similar to this route in this area. But, there is a topo for the Outrage Wall in the back of Ed's book that diagrams "Jambo Bwana (TWZ)" beside the Surf Bowl. So, this pretty clearly is the first few pitches of TWZ (until the first garden). Maybe TWZ was only bolted part way when this was first posted? Or the climber thought the 3rd class was the end? [/edit note]

The approach is long, follow the spire path and keep going, the route is on the far left [edit: actually far right] of the Surf bowl. Still very chaucy rock, needs more ascents to clean the route. The crux pitch is made harder in part due to the crimper holds crumpeling while most inconvinient. There is a fixed rope at the top, to rap the top pitch.

-z- you are correct, JumboBwano was the original route, and Timewave was added from the 3rd class ledge. It is in my 2001 guide ... Timewave was added in 2003 I think. Ed and I tried for the 2nd ascent, but were overtaken by a simul climbing Mexican team. They were not going to let us take the 2nd! We only made it to the eighteenth pitch, and they past us on the way down before we got done!

P1: 4 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P2: 9 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P3: 8 Bolts (3 bolt anchor) P4: 7 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P5: 8 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P6: 9 Bolts (3 bolt anchor) Traverse pitch P7: 3 Bolts (3 bolt anchor) P8: 4th class P9: 10 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P10: 9 bolts (4 bolt anchor) traverse P11: 8 bolts (3 bolt anchor) P12: Ledge for overnight bivy P13: 6 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P14: 6 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P15: 9 bolts (3 bolt anchor) P16: 9 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P17: 7 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P18: 8 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P19: 6 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P20: 7 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P21: 10 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P22: 7 bolts (2 bolt anchor) P23: 6 bolts (1 bolt anchor) ridge traverse

5.7 A Time for War

Starts about twenty feet right of Timewave Zero

5.10b A Time for Peace

Second pitch can be accessed by climbing “A Time for War”, “A Time for Peace”, or “Tomato Your Time”.

5.6 Tomato Your Time

Shares an anchor with “A Time for Peace”.

5.8 Man Beyond Time

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

5.8 Citizens of Heaven

Most of the climbing here is in a State Park. As of 2023 there is a one-time 250 peso fee to climb for the entire winter climbing season. Please help maintain a clean environment in order to help maintain these privileges. Respect the local land people by packing out what you pack in.

Affichant les 7 noeuds total.

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