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Ascensions dans Elephant Buttress

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Affichant les 33 ascensions total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Qualité Grimpeur
Mar 2 Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Upper tier
17 Elephant's Revenge - avec John Pitcairn Trad 15m
Gareth
A fine third course to the lichenfest, and actually cleaner than the rest. Good route, well recommended

 
Mar 2 Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Middle tier
15 Irrelephant - avec John Pitcairn Trad 8m
Gareth
Pitch two in the smorgasboard of lichenous delights.

Condition of handline and tree it is attached to leaves a lot to be desired.

 
Mar 2 Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
17 Pet Shop Shark Attack 1981 - avec John Pitcairn Trad mixte 30m, 3
Gareth
Considerably less vegetated than claimjumper...

 
16 Claim Jumper - avec John Pitcairn Trad 28m
Gareth
Will clean up with traffic.... Has now been grubbed out and cleaned almost to where it looks a lot cleaner higher up.

Was going to be the first pitch in our three course menu of dirt, however after spending a good hour cleaning the first ten metres or so, and still contending with vegetation, we decided to change tactic. Down aided, and moseyed over to something slightly less grubby.

 
Mar 2 Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Upper tier
17 Elephant's Revenge - avec Gareth Trad 15m Excellent
John Pitcairn
Towed a #5 up here but it's only really useful to protect the wide start until you get a good high hex. A few jamming/offwidth skills will go a long way. Stays fairly clean, and there's a bolted anchor.

 
Mar 2 Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Middle tier
15 Difficile Irrelephant - avec Gareth Trad 8m Dans la moyenne
John Pitcairn
Continuing the dirty 'ol trad research project. Harder than it looks. Didn't hate it.

 
Mar 2 Jan 2024 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
17 Difficile Pet Shop Shark Attack 1981 - avec Gareth Trad mixte 30m, 3 Bon
John Pitcairn
Rather good. Headed right after first bolt, some sketch getting back on line. Nose bolts a bit tempting. Surprisingly clean for a mixed route.

 
Sam 16 Avr 2022 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
15 The Nose - avec h Sportive 30m, 9 Bon
Paul Renwick
Sam 3 Avr 2021 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
16 Claim Jumper - avec John Pitcairn, Colin Trad 28m
Paul Baron
16 Trunk Line - avec John Pitcairn, Colin Trad 35m
Paul Baron
16 Claim Jumper - avec Paul Baron Trad 28m Bon
John Pitcairn
Vegetated down low, lichenous higher, needs a better clean. If cleaner I think it would be quite good, has a nice physicality to it with some committing moves. Mind the chossy bits at top, but there is gear, and don't miss the anchor out left (the traverse to that is protectable by a #3).

 
16 Trunk Line - avec Paul Baron Trad 35m Bon
John Pitcairn
Much better after the clean at the bottom, but a lot of dirt will continue to rain down on it I think. Mind the somewhat chossy stuff up top, though there is good gear to be had. Squeeze between the kōwhai and the rock for a better belay experience, then extend yourself down from the tree anchor. You can rap off the shackles on the hand line and get down to the bottom of Taniwha Crackdown on a 60m rope, assuming you want to trust the hand line.

 
16 Trunk Line - avec colin megson Trad 35m Dans la moyenne
Grant Johnston
The initial crack was reasonably clean. Wasn’t worried about the massive apparently detached flake you bridge up after that but did not like the dirty lose gully to the right above it. Chose to walk off the back rather than trust the shackles on the weathered handrail rope for an abseil.

 
16 Claim Jumper - avec colin megson Trad 28m Dans la moyenne
Grant Johnston
Surprised to see here that I seconded this 2 years ago. I have no memory of that. Climb was very dirty vegetated and lichen covered. Lots of holds if you can uncover them, Also some loose rock. Some good moves. Could be good if it was cleaned up.

 
Lun 25 Jan 2021 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
23 Flight Of The Pachyderm Sportive 40m, 9 Excellent
Jack Wicks
bit dirty and mossy but over all a verry fun route run out where its easy and well protected when it gets hard fell 3 times on the crux before finding the right holds.

 
Lun 28 Déc 2020 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
16 Trunk Line - avec Gareth Trad 35m Pourrie
John Pitcairn
Terrifying, stay the hell off. Filthy and difficult down low, objectively dangerous up top due to the huge detached death-flake. Much gardening and excavation for gear up the crack, veering left quite often just to climb on lichen rather than vegetation, then tried to stay off the horrifying huge flake as much as possible by bridging and climbing/protecting the right wall, with just one big hex in the flake gap. Topped out around the tree then anchored on the same tree as the hand line (not the shackles), which is quite old but needed for the sketchy walk-off. I will never climb this again, and recommend nobody else does either.

 
Dim 29 Déc 2019 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
17 Taniwha Crackdown - avec Gareth Hall Trad 20m Bon
John Pitcairn
A bit of an evening adventure, starting as far right as possible. Traverse gear is reasonably sparse but you're not far off the ground.

 
Sam 27 Avr 2019 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
15 The Nose - avec Lauren Simpson Sportive 30m, 9 Dans la moyenne
Danny Irwin
15 The Nose Sportive 30m, 9
Lauren Simpson
Mar 23 Avr 2019 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
23 Flight Of The Pachyderm - avec John Pitcairn Sportive 40m, 9
Grant Johnston
way too hard for me

 
15 The Nose - avec John Pitcairn Sportive 30m, 9
Grant Johnston
16 Claim Jumper - avec John Pitcairn Trad 28m
Grant Johnston
23 Flight Of The Pachyderm - avec Grant Johnston Sportive 40m, 9 Bon
John Pitcairn
Had a go on Donovan's draws. Nice 17-ish slabbing until the first overhang, then shut down trying to get past that. Well protected to work the overhang. Beyond me right now.

 
15 The Nose - avec Grant Johnston Sportive 30m, 9 Dans la moyenne
John Pitcairn
Easy sport clip-up, not my thing.

 
16 Claim Jumper - avec Grant Johnston Trad 28m Bon
John Pitcairn
It looks a bit shit but there is some decent climbing here, and it's a decent length. The bottom crack is a bit seepy after rain which makes for an underwhelming start, but things improve from there. Not the cleanest thing around but workable. Loose flake out right around halfway.

 
Dim 27 Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Upper tier
17 Elephant's Revenge Trad 15m Excellent
John Pitcairn
Really enjoyed this, worth going up there for. The offwidth start is the crux, funky moves and can be tamed a bit by a high fist jam to pull up at the top. Plenty of gear is available up the top section offwidth layback and above. It's all pretty clean too. Big gear - take at least doubles of #4 cams, at least one #5.

 
Dim 27 Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Middle tier
10 Hooptedoodle Slab Trad 7m Pas la peine
John Pitcairn
An exploratory mission. You wouldn't think a grade 10 slab could be scary, but it's covered in lichen and loose bits of rock and there is pretty much no worthwhile gear. Don't think Rob was very happy on lead. Maybe an option if it was clean, but you're probably a lot better off climbing Irrelephant (the flaring 15) to gain the upper tier.

 
Dim 27 Jan 2019 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
17 16 Nogasang Trad mixte 30m, 6 Bon
John Pitcairn
It's more like 17, and there is a fair bit of lichen regrowth, but it's a cool slabby lead with some nervy moments.

 
17 Taniwha Crackdown - avec Colin Trad 20m Excellent
Angela Hewlett
Dirty but still enjoyable.

 
Sam 9 Avr 2016 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
19 Elephant Hunting - avec Jonny Trad 25m Bon
Ian.Grabowski
Nice and delicate in places.

 
Dim 31 Jan 2016 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Lower tier
17 Taniwha Crackdown - avec John Pitcairn, Angela Hewlett Trad 20m Bon
Grant Johnston
Another interesting climb.

 
17 Taniwha Crackdown - avec Grant Johnston, Angela Hewlett Trad 20m Bon
John Pitcairn
Fun and not as straightfoward as thought. One small cam and lots of nuts, gear needed plenty of extension to manage rope drag, belayed at Elephant Hunting chains (shade) but could have continued. Angela led the short 13 to the top then we soloed (me in liner socks only).

 
Dim 25 Mars 2012 - Kawakawa Bay
Elephant Buttress Upper tier
22 Cicada Death March - avec Mia Trad 22m Excellent
Gee Rad

Affichant les 33 ascensions total.

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