Voies dans Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island pour la cotation selectionnée

Start matched on the right. Traverse left to Prometheus, finish up the arete.

Start as for Green Fingers, make a big move out left and continue traversing around to mantle. Fight the dab.

SDS with the right hand on a crimpy pinch and the left low on the arete.

Sit start matched on the slopey fin. A big move out right to the far lip will set you up for the finish up the arete.

Direct LH boulder start to Sunshine Daydream - joins original at the scoop

Up obvious seam in middle

Stand start. Match on the large flat hold. Head left to top out at the horn.

Start matched on the large feature in the middle of the face. Throw a big move for the arête then use high right hand holds to top out at the peak.

Right hand under cling left hand pinch. Head up on the left arete and then right on the slopey rounded holds.

Match on the edge in the middle of the face and throw to the smooth jug.

Stand start with right hand on the gutter side, left hand on small crimp, climb the rail to the top.

Start with two good handholds while your right foot is towards the creek and go to the left. RISK of falling into the creek.

Match on the obvious jug. Head straight up to higher holds and top out.

Start far along the left side. Traverse along the crack to the start jug and finish with Hornet Nest from there.

Stand start with a pointy crimp and a rounded rail. Move left to the slopers and then to the large pocket jug. Top out to the right of the peak.

Head straight up from the same start as The Thief.

Easy slab on small wires, leads to a bulge with a small cam to protect the crux. Named after a mythological creature the Potarta that tickles feet and eats heads, which seemed kind of analogous to a climb with dubious gear and a slab to fall on.

Several metres back on the shelf you top out onto is the anchor to lower off.

The face to the left of PBJ. Eliminate the ledge for full value.

Up the wide groove to reach the slopery crack.

Follow the left arete upwards, technical moves and thin feet

Top out the boulder problem then climb the sweet finger crack to an easier top section. Shares anchors with "His".

Climb the arête and finish with The Gecko. Two bolts, and a piece for the horizontal crack.

Start on the crimps and make your way to the top, stay close to the centre crack for full value.Take care on the fall zone. Down climb on the right.

The steep groove and thin crack. The name is an anagram.

The steep left-trending crack and groove. Considered a "yardstick" 24 by some.

The thin overhanging crack through the buttress. Strenuous and demanding to protect.

Start from the pointy block and climb the thin crack and face past a drill hole.

Start as for Sneakeasy, move back left at the second bolt, then direct up the buttress.

Climb to the broken ledges from the left, move back right and up the groove.

Classic. Climb the groove, at the roof arrange good protection and move right onto the wall, finishing rightwards beside the overhanging corner above.

Climb the wide groove past a bolt then straight up the wall.

Classic. Up the right-hand buttress of Momrath, following the thin crack with good protection.

Climb the corner to the left hand edge of the ledge, then up the buttress above, moving left at the top.

Climb the corner to broken ledges, with poor protection. Continue up the corner above to the ledges, exiting left or right.

Climb the corner crack, finishing over blocks above.

Tricky moves up an overhanging wall to the blast hole and ledge on the left, then up the groove above.

The direct finish to Melquiades, up the right-hand groove and thin crack with a bolt (but take small wires too).

Climb the wall between Bad Behaviour and Bandersnatch, then right to the thin crack and hole. Move left after the 4th bolt and pull through the bulge, finishing up Bad Behaviour. Retrobolted.

Keep going straight up instead of moving left. Run out.

Levitate up the shallow corner and very thin crack right of Bandersnatch. Protection is tiny and hard to place.

Campus.

Sit-start

Start matched on the small shelf and traverse left. Crux is to not dab.

Sit start

Traverse left to right and finish as for Little Island.

Stand-start on the arete and crack.

Standing start, slap up arete, mantle. Originally graded V3.

Start as for The Cross and finish with Now Tell Me.

Sit start on the arete via a heel hook and compression.

starting on the corner roof jug, head up via a heel and left hand press.

Climbing the arete through the roof and varying onto the headwall and face.

Technical and delicate face climbing on open handholds. Originally graded 25/26 and climbed via the left-hand side of the first two bolts though climbing the right-hand side leads to easier ground. Downgraded due to community consensus.

Start as per 'Skin Thicker than Leather' then, at the 2nd bolt, traverse right to join the bolt line of 'Jabbar the Hutt'.

Start just right of the large boulder beneath the arch, then traverse right onto the face and climb the wide crack using traditional protection. At mid height, veer slightly left past two bolts to the top of the cliff, then climb onto the boulder to the anchor of route ‘The Angry Sea and the Sky’.

Start at the bottom beside Angel of Calcutta. A nice (hard) boulder problem starts after the second bolt and finishes at the fourth. Easy climbing to the top.

Climb the face right of the crack. Crack is out. A bit contrived, but fun.

A direct start to ‘Pin Ups’. Climb ‘Chad’ for 1m then up the face to the right past one bolt until the thin crack is reached.

Start on two underclings under the main slab face and climb through the middle using the few holds that are on offer.

Sit start on the V, climb through the slight overhang and pull over the bulge.

Start as for Thundamental, traverse low to the start of Sensibile and finish as for that climb.

Sit start with hands compressing arete. Stand up then dyno for top jug. All pockets and crimps are out. Arete's only!

Sit start, left hand small pocket right hand on arete side pull. Feet on same face. Crack and face on either sides are out.

Start on the shown hands, and traverse as far left as possible without using the top. Then go up and use the last two top blocks to jump to the other side. Finnish the climb by traversing the other side, one again not using the top.

Start in corner on sloper and incut side pull. Crux is getting around the arete, then traverse on crimps to the start of Scoria Euphoria. From there top out.

P1: Start as for JAFA Cake, then move left at the 3rd bolt, up through the overhang (crux). Consider extending the next few bolts.

P2: Shares an anchor with Midnight Summer Dream.

Climb the steep groove past 2 bolts and then the arête starting from the jug on the left. Climb mostly on the right of the arête from the jug past the next few bolts to where the climbing eases back to big holds. Follow your nose through the overhanging section to the belay ledge. Avoid trying to sneak around the first tricky section by grovelling up the dirty groove on the right as it is also loose (significantly easier, possibly grade 19 if the arete is avoided by climbing the groove).

Left of No Fly Zone. Climb the face then into the corner via the flakes or transfer over to the adjacent boulder at the jug. Stem your way to the roof then power through and enjoy the top, this climb has everything!!!

Start up Coller De Hors then at the 3rd bolt head left through the overhang then head directly up past 4 more bolts to join the top of no fly zone.

The pronounced streak on the last buttress of this sector. This climb has two cruxes, one high and one low. The higher you get the steeper it is and the rests quickly disappear. The second bolt is tricky to clip due to the nature of the rock but good side pulls are there if you can find them

Climb the right hand face from the chain. 30m of climbing with a few cruxes, step left at the top of the line to the anchors shared with "Shin-dig" Don't forget to enjoy the view!!!

Start at the rusty bolts on the face, climb through 3 bolts to a ledge then balance your way up to the roof, take a rest on the ledge and then attack the final crux through the steep lip. No anchors yet, plans to instal them on the next trip, until then there are 2 clips to lower from.

Climb over several bulges before attacking the roof, the headwall is where the most technical moves are on good crimps. Extend the roof quick draw and the one below it if you don't want rope drag. This route is climbable but still needs an anchor installed which I will do in the coming weeks. currently there are a couple of clips at the top to rap from.

Has a second pitch which is a closed project.

1. 25m (24) Steep right-trending blocky climbing with no easy bits, skip the first chain anchor. Possible to aid at 20 A0.

2. 25m (19): Tricky moves past two bolts to a steep featured corner crack.

3. 30m (21) Continue up the corner crack (med cams and bolts) then trend up and left on chickenheads.

4. 25m (18) Slabby chickenheads up and left.

5. 30m (21) A beautiful pitch, starting with a steep, technical and sustained vertical face.

6. 30m (18) Interesting friction slab.

7. 15m (20) A few tricky steep moves to more slab.

Descent: Rap the line

Absolutely wild! Start at the same bolt as Coitus Interruptus but then trend right up the delicate slab before traversing right over ledges to the steeply overhung alien feature. Take a deep breath before launching up the inside of this outrageous feature. Clip the green thread before you mantle out. DBC belay.

Note: There is an anchor on the ledge in the middle of the route, this is the top of Boulderer's Day Off. You can stop here to split the route into 2 pitches.

A wildly overhanging, left-leaning hand crack! Rope stretcher - use a 70m rope or tie knots in your 60m. Located at the far left-hand side of the crag, up the access ramp with a white fixed rope. Start up the block just left of the main crack, placing a good cam off the ground to protect the start moves. Span across to the main crack and then blast upwards. The crux is hand jams.

Rack: Single rack of wires and small cams, double rack of cams from #0.4 -#3,one #4. Hexes work great too! Make sure you keep a #.5 and a #.75 camalot for the top section where the gear options get a bit limited.

A wild experience in a small space. Stay out of Robin's hand crack on the left for an honest ascent. A tricky ending with hard to solve clues. Pre-placing the quickdraws is recommended, with a med-long draw on the 3rd.

A great line with three unique cruxes in three different styles. Set with creative use of a crowbar due to the hidden hammer incident.

Head up the slab into the slight dihedral corner, escaping right to a flat crimp. Delicately work your way up technical moves upwards to the large breaks and the anchor.

On the arete right of flake 7

Alternate start to 'Back to the Future'. Traverse from a crack on the right and continue as for Back to the Future at the 3rd bolt.

Gear can and should be placed during the traverse to protect you until the 3rd bolt

Climbs the slightly overhanging face, left of Biggie Smalls. Consistant and tecky moves with a cool crux and mantle. Great photo spot out right.

coming soon - a hard right hand exit (sans mantle) *closed project

Climb the face, both adjacent boulders are in as are knee pads... hint hint...