Noeuds dans The Alcove

This is the section of cliff-line facing west, closest to the Mt Pleasant Spur Right Cliff, and extending along to a large cave inhabited by pigeons. The main focus for those seeking the harder routes.

Staunch pulling over the roof and up the arête at the left end of The Alcove. Head left for a start, then clip the first bolt and move right to the arête and up. Climb the easy face to a steepening exit beside the bush, with surprisingly tricky moves on the slopers to top out. Five bolts and anchor rings.

Hard pulling to get through the roof, joining Endless Summer after the third bolt.

Fairly easy for the grade. Starts up the left-leading weakness through the roof on the left side of The Alcove. Follow three bolts leftward and then pull over the roof on good holds into a shallow groove with a bridging rest. Steepening finish, with the best holds leading left. Use the anchors of one of the adjacent routes.

Better than the name suggests. Six bolts. A central finish between the two earlier options to the Tropical Storm anchors.

Climb leftward through the roof as for the previous route, and then move right about two metres and climb a corner over a small roof, heading left to ring hanger anchors.

Start as for Tropical Storm, but at its third bolt, hand traverse rightward along the lip of the roof to join Skunk 2, and lower off its third bolt.

A direct start with two extra bolts, plus one from Nor West Arch.

Starts directly in front of the large boulder. Straightforward moves on good holds past the first bolt, followed by long reaches on small crimps and/or a dyno through the overhang. Continue over the lip where the third bolt intersects with Nor West Arch. Finish up the arête above. Six bolts, with an optional small cam placement between fourth and fifth.

Starts about 1.5 metres to the right of Real Slim Shady. Somehow surmount the roof on minuscule holds, then link into RSS past the third bolt. Take care with the death blocks at the top.

Climb the right-leaning weakness past two bolts to the last bolt of the Nor West Arch traverse. Pull past it on the right to gain a rest in the crack above, which takes larger wires. Then move to the left crack and climb to the top of the pillar, with good cams. Steep climbing on good holds to finish, and move left to the anchors. Better than the name suggests. Double ring anchor.

Pull hard through the overhang past two bolts, then move rightward, clipping the third bolt from a good hold in the base of the groove to the left. Step right and power on up the prow, moving left to the fifth bolt and a positive exit. Five bolts and anchors

Left finish from Panda Monium's third bolt

Above an overgrown block is this route up a steeply overhanging wall. Simon Middlemass set it up, but Jeff did it not realising it was a first ascent.

A line of right-trending bolts finishing up an overhanging bulge. Start two metres right of Panda Monium and move up; then traverse right along a ledge to the second bolt before moving left to a large undercling. Thin holds lead to a traverse past the third bolt and then up to bigger holds. After losing a hold, this route is harder than when first climbed. Shares anchors with the next route.

Close to YG but good independent climbing. Carefully pull over the roof above the track on funky holds. Clip the 2nd bolt of YG then crimp up the groove on its right. Then there are three more bolts and larger holds

Climb Peak Plonkers to the third bolt, then traverse hard right, clipping the bolt beneath the roof, to link with Hushpuppy below its final bolt. Hard if you stay below the roof on the traverse, easier if you traverse higher.

Climb from the alcove right of Peak Plonkers through the left side of a large roof. Slightly left after the fifth bolt under some large blocks to gain the anchors. Five bolts

Climb into the wombat hole, then surmount the horizontal roof with creativity. Thin moves up the head wall lead up and left, then back right over the bulge. Anchor is currently a single staple.

Climb Great White to the last bolt, then traverse left to link into the top of Silence of the Wombats for its last bolt. Really just a variant finish, but fun nonetheless.

Climbs the obvious big corner / roof. Traverse right under the roof, into the V niche, then trend left and up to chain anchors

Now 28 - until Vaughan glues the hold back on. Very steep route with glued holds two metres right. Climb past five bolts up a steeply overhanging wall to abseil chains. Originally a project by Matt Evrard

Another couple of metres right with even more glued holds. Good moves though.

Climb the Butcher, mantle over the roof, then veer left to finish as for ‘Wall Street Crumble’

Climb the Butcher to the 4th bolt then link into Wall Street for its bulge crux.

The last route through the roof. A short capped corner gives access to the roof. Go straight over the top bulge, clipping if you have strength to burn. Once at the headwall bolt traverse off directly right to the last move and anchors of Weet-bix Kids

Skirts the right side of the roof. Difficult start on slopey holds. Climb the shallow groove to a small roof, then left to gain a standing position on the ledge. Finish up the steep crumbly wall to a large ledge and lowering anchor

Start up ‘Weet-Bix Kids’ and at the third bolt head slightly rightwards and finish up the last two bolts of ‘Liposuction’ combining the two best bits of each route for a harder more sustained variation.

First route of the "modern" development of Britten. Deceptively steep wall just left of the cave. A nut or large wire can be used at the start climbing onto the protruding nose Straight up the wall to a good hold left of the third bolt, then rightward to the chains just above the lip on the right.

Start 1½ metres right in a short corner. Hard moves onto a ledge, then shuffle left and clip the second bolt. Straight up the wall with a series of dynamic moves to finish on a ledge above and right of the Liposuction anchors at a single lowering bolt at the back of the ledge.

On the left side of the pigeon cave. Follow four bolts up an ever steepening wall and across the top roof on better holds than you might expect. Use Mutilation's anchors

On the left side of the cave. Four bolts lead directly up an overhanging wall with a capping roof to conclude at double anchor rings. There is a squating rest on the pillar halfway up.

On the left side of the cave. Four bolts lead directly up an overhanging wall with a capping roof to conclude at double anchor rings. There is a squating rest on the pillar halfway up.

Start up U Haul to the first bolt, but move left to another bolt, then blast up the wall past two more bolts on improving holds. Can also be started by bouldering to the first bolt directly. Use the U-Haul anchors.

Very steep route following a groove and crack line rightward, on the right side of the cave. Technically easy but you need a certain amount of strength. Three bolts and anchor bolts.

The left side of the arête. Start slightly left, moving right past the second bolt and then up. Five bolts and two anchor rings.

Lh Traverse. Starts as for Disco Logic and circles leftwards & up wards using top bolt of NN and going left across the top regions of Thorn Bird finishing at top of Mt Pleasant Butcher

The right-most route in the cave area. Start under the overhang on decent holds. A long reach to the glue reenforced holds then continue straight up to it’s own independent anchor.