★ Chaos Theory 19 AID:A2 R

If you want to try this climb just be aware that there are runouts on wet/vegetated rock 15-30m between gear!

P1 (16) 55m - Climb the grassy gully to the right of the small roof above the bivvy. The anchor is a bolt and a very manky nut.

P2 (16) 55m - Continue up the crack to a small grassy ledge.

P3 (16) 40m - Traverse left underneath the overhang and a parallel crack for a natural belay.

P4 (17) 60m - Traverse left and up smooth face with good but spaced pro on small flakes. The next anchor is a bolt and piton above a ledge.

P5 (9) 60m - Traverse to right and scramble up the steep ledge. Single bolt anchor.

P6 (9) 60m - Easy scrambling to find a bolt and a nut anchor (this anchor seems hidden/non-existent - we set up a trad anchor at the base of P7).

P7 (13) 60m - Easy climbing up a buttress to a trad anchor point below a steep section.

P8 (16) 40m - Dirty crack. Keep on the ridge side of the corner to a single bolt anchor (you can back it up with a #4).

P9 (19) 35m - Bouldery start on a sharp-edged corner to a ledge, then up a crack to another. Watch out for loose blocks. Go left off the crack to a DBA.

P10 (19/A2) 40m - Head to the off-width. Must have at least one #6 and doubles of #4 & #5. Free climb the end of the chimney to DBA below a roof.

P11 35m - Easy traverse right to bivvy ledge. Use the bollard at Big Rock for anchor.

P12 (13) 60m - Walk across to the other end of the ledge and go straight up buttress to DBA.

P13 (13) 60m - Easy slab.

P14 (19R) 40m - Traverse left a little and go up the crimpy face to a DBA on the right.

P15 (19R) 35m - Slab with scarce placements. Veer right to a vertical crack and a DBA.

P16 (18) 35m - Aim for the roof through the crack system. Set up trad anchor below the roof.

P17 (16) 60m - Skip roof through the right side, then a full rope-length straight up to a DBA.

Descent: 13 double rope raps following a direct line from the top (not all anchors are rap points) will lead you back to the bottom of the route.