Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Falaise | Qualité | Grimpeur | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
25 |
★★★ Rogue Erratic
![]()
2
grimpé en tête par
Ludek Sykora
| 40m, 13 | Hospital Flat | ★★★ Classique | Ven 2 Nov. 2018 | ||||
Very good climbing but didn't let me take tick! First pitch solid in the grade
|
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25 |
★★★ Rogue Erratic
![]()
1
20
40m
2
25
| 40m, 13 | Hospital Flat | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 25 Mai 2021 | ||||
23 |
★★ Poseidon
![]()
3
23
31
4
21
33
6
17
20
8
| 170m, 57 | The Remarkables | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 15 Nov. 2018 | ||||
Nice climbing throughout. Linked pitches 1 and 2.
|
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23 |
★★ Poseidon
![]()
1
23
200m
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
| 200m, 57 | The Remarkables | ★★ Excellent | Mar 2 Mars 2021 | ||||
All depends on how willing you are to get to this climb. Awesome backdrop and pretty good climbing. Route finding and bush bashing skills required. The approach was 5x harder than the climbing.
Take heaps of water or drink heaps before the climb, you do cross a stream at one point. Wouldn't recommend on a hot summers day. Started too late, Had to bail at 5th pitch as we were running out of light. Got lost heading back down in the dark. Take gloves for bush bashing or you will regret it. From water tank follow slight trail, few rock cairns here and there, bush bashed through the last part, no trail imo. 23 feels more like 22 not sure
Good luck
|
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22 |
★★ I Shot the Sheriff
![]()
1
22
50m
2
3
| 50m, 17 | Kingston | Mer 20 Mars 2019 | |||||
23 |
★ Centre Fold
![]()
4
16
15
grimpé en tête par
Natalie Tan
| 150m, 15 | South Wye | ★ Bon | Mer 25 Mars 2020 | ||||
got a little of track . did third pitch as "Excursion" ended up a little harder than expected. slowed us down wanted to get out earlier so left the last pitch. Also last pitch didn't seem worth it. The Previous two before the last pitch were average at best. not a two start climb.
|
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22 |
★★ I Shot the Sheriff
![]()
1
17
13m
2
22
19m
3
18
18m
| 50m, 17 | Kingston | ★★★ Classique | Mer 21 Avr 2021 | ||||
Only did the 2nd pitch after completing, Get up, Stand up. Super fun and exposed moves getting to the roof!
|
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21 |
★★★ Chink in Shining Armour
![]()
1
17
20m
2
18
26m
3
20
30m
4
21
30m
| 110m, 32 | Chinaman's Bluff | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 22 Avr 2021 | ||||
20 |
★★★ Naked on the Neve
![]() | 40m, 12 | Diamond Lake | ★★★ Classique | Sam 20 Jan 2018 | ||||
Great route, not the mega-classic we were hoping for. The first pitch is quite technical, but pulling through the top roof section is awesome.
|
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20 |
★★ Third World Assassin
![]() | 87m, 10 | Chinaman's Bluff | ★ Bon | Jeu 6 Déc 2018 | ||||
Unfortunately a lot of vegetation which detracted from the climb. If you go I would recommend taking a wire brush and making a day of it to clean it up. I was not aware of its current state otherwise would have done so myself. Not sure I will get the chance again before I go home. Would be a nice climb if cleaned properly. The second pitch is one of the scariest leads I have ever done. Thin and tricky gear the whole way. Had to sit a couple of times. Third pitch was the best in my opinion with great climbing and good gear, though a small amount of vegetation in the crack detracted from the quality.
|
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20 |
★★★ The Ravages of Time
![]()
1
17
350m
2
18
3
18
4
20
5
17
6
18
7
16
8
20
| 350m, 47 | Chinaman's Bluff | ★ Bon | Sam 8 Déc 2018 | ||||
20 |
★ Hey George
![]()
1
18
15m
2
20
15m
| 30m, 14 | Diamond Lake | ★ Bon | Ven 15 Mars 2019 | ||||
20 |
★★★ The Ravages of Time
![]()
1
17
20m
2
18
35m
3
18
30m
4
20
30m
5
17
20m
6
18
35m
7
16
30m
8
20
35m
| 240m, 47 | Chinaman's Bluff | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 18 Fév 2021 | ||||
Super cool tour, be careful with the descent.
|
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20 |
★★★ The Ravages of Time
![]()
1
17
20m
2
18
35m
3
18
30m
4
20
30m
5
17
20m
6
18
35m
7
16
30m
8
20
35m
| 240m, 47 | Chinaman's Bluff | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 22 Avr 2021 | ||||
20 |
★ Hey George
![]() | 30m, 14 | Diamond Lake | ★ Bon | Dim 6 Mars 2022 | ||||
20 |
★★★ The Ravages of Time
![]() | 120m, 47 | Chinaman's Bluff | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 18 Mars 2022 | ||||
Epic time, found the route thanks to notes from a friend and Eric's excellent navigation. Didn't climb fast enough to do the whole route, Pitch 2 was my favourite, varying from "this is the greatest climb of my life" as I went under the roof and round the corner, to 5 metres later "this is the worst route of my life" as I dropped Eric's carabiner while trying to navigate round the crack tree. Super hang dog on Pitch 4 for bolt / unrelenting section. Lots of debate about which way to go in Pitch 2 and 3
|
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20 |
★★★ The Ravages of Time
![]()
1
17
20
2
18
35
3
18
30
4
20
30
5
17
20
6
16
35
7
16
30
8
20
35
| 240m, 47 | Chinaman's Bluff | Sam 14 Jan 2023 | |||||
19 |
★★ The Spell of the Barking Spider
![]()
1
19
28m
2
18
26m
3
17
20m
| 74m, 20 | Kingston | ★★★ Classique | Mer 17 Fév 2021 | ||||
19 |
★★ The Spell of the Barking Spider
![]() | 74m, 20 | Kingston | ★★ Excellent | Sam 25 Déc 2021 | ||||
19 |
★ Joyeux Noël
![]() | 49m, 13 | Kingston | Ven 21 Jan 2022 | |||||
19 |
★★ The Spell of the Barking Spider
![]()
1
19
28
grimpé en tête par
Taylor
3
17
20
grimpé en tête par
Taylor
| 74m, 20 | Kingston | Ven 13 Jan 2023 | |||||
18 |
★★★ Indian Summer
![]()
1
17
30m
2
16
50m
3
15
60m
4
18
60m
| 200m | The Remarkables | ★★★ Super classique | Lun 2 Mars 2020 | ||||
18 |
★ Pour les Amis
![]() | 45m, 22 | Kingston | ★★ Excellent | Ven 19 Nov. 2021 | ||||
18 |
★★ DJ Da Generous
![]() | 78m, 23 | Kingston | ★★ Excellent | Ven 19 Nov. 2021 | ||||
18 |
★ Assessor or Assassin
![]() | 31m, 18 | Gorge Road | Dim 16 Jan 2022 | |||||
18 |
★★ DJ Da Generous
![]() | 78m, 23 | Kingston | Ven 21 Jan 2022 | |||||
17 |
★ Summer Solstice
![]()
1
17
51m
2
| 51m, 13 | Kingston | Jeu 28 Nov. 2019 | |||||
17 |
★★ Briefcase Wanker
![]()
1
13
25m
2
17
25m
| 50m, 9 | Hospital Flat | ★ Bon | Sam 29 Août 2020 | ||||
14 |
★★ The Ring Master
![]() | 40m, 4 | The Remarkables | Sam 19 Mars 2022 | |||||
16 |
★★ Get Up, Stand Up
![]()
1
16
2
16
3
16
| 49m, 17 | Kingston | ★★★ Classique | Dim 15 Mars 2020 | ||||
16 |
★★ The Fat Lady Sings At The Circus
![]()
1
12
135m
2
16
| 140m, 6 | The Remarkables | ★★ Excellent | Sam 30 Mai 2020 | ||||
16 |
★★ Get Up, Stand Up
![]()
1
16
13m
2
16
18m
3
16
18m
| 49m, 17 | Kingston | ★★★ Classique | Mer 17 Mars 2021 | ||||
12 |
★★ The Fat Lady Sings At The Circus (The Fat Lady Sings At The Circus P1)
![]()
1
12
50
| 50m, 6 | The Remarkables | Sam 19 Mars 2022 | |||||
16 |
★ Schism in the Faith
![]() | 20m, 8 | Hospital Flat | Jeu 28 Mars 2024 | |||||
20 |
★★★ The Ravages of Time
![]()
1
17
20
2
18
35
3
18
30
4
20
30
| 120m, 47 | Chinaman's Bluff | Ven 18 Nov. 2022 | |||||
Led first 4 pitches and turned back...
|
|||||||||
17 ~20 |
★ Chaos Theory
![]()
1
16
55
2
16
55
3
16
40
4
17
60
5
9
60
6
9
60
7
13
60
8
16
40
| 430m | Glenorchie | Pas la peine | Dim 24 Mars 2024 | ||||
Wanted to jump on this for a while! Extremely runout (15m - 30m between pretty uninspiring placements).
Approach is pretty straightforward - as of 24/03/2024 there's a cairn on the second dry stream after the flat where you start bashing up the stream, and 4.5 hours from the car was pretty much bang on in the dark accounting for getting lost a bit and faffing around with the river crossing. Only 1.5 hours up the stream to the first fixed rope. I probably wouldn't trust it after another Winter (pulling on it resulted in some pretty uninspiring sounds), and you probably shouldn't expect it to still be there (there's a very licheny 6m climb which you get to by following the cliff on your left to the very end). The other two fixed ropes were gone (we found the remains of one of them), but its pretty cruisy scrambling anyway. Kea Bivvy ledge is sweet, but bring a soft bottle because the water just trickles, and it's kinda hard to collect. In general, the climbing was super run out, and a lot of it was wet and there's heaps of tussock pulling. We got slightly off route looking at the topo and went directly up the face (instead of up the grassy gully which is described as a crack), and ended up linking the first pitch to somewhere in the middle of the third pitch at Grade 19/20 with a 40m runout. Went directly up to the middle of pitch 5 from here, at a more realistic 16/17. Bit worried at this point because we hadn't seen any of the alleged "DBAs" but found a solitary bolt we reckon was the top of pitch 5 (no sign of the piton mentioned in the guide). Spent a couple of hours searching the ledge for the other "DBA" at the top of pitch 6 to confirm we were actually on the route but couldn't find it. Eventually wandered up where we thought pitch 7 was and up pitch 8 (again, I think we got a bit off route, but had a cool 18ish pitch with some good pro, which was a novelty at that point). Rapped down off the single bolt at the top of pitch 8 and set up a bollard to rap back to the ledge where we walked back to the top of pitch 5 and rapped off another single bolt. Rap anchors look pretty traversey in the topo but they're actually straight down, and from the top of pitch 5 we did 2 30m abseils and a 55m to get back to our bivvy. "DBAs" at the top of pitches seemed to mostly be single bolts, and we didn't find most of the ones mentioned in the guide. Rap stations sometimes had two bolts but didn't always have maillons/rings/biners on them. If you go up take a few maillions and some tat as there are some pretty manky anchors. The one at the top of pitch one, has a loose nut which gets pulled out of the crack when loaded Cool location, but probably won't be back for this route |
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24 |
★ Wicked Corner
![]()
1
21
2
24
| 28m, 4 | Lovers Leap | ★ Bon | Lun 25 Mars 2024 | ||||
21 ~20 |
★★★ Chink in Shining Armour
![]()
1
17
20m
2
17
26m
3
20
30m
4
21
30m
| 110m, 32 | Chinaman's Bluff | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 29 Avr 2023 | ||||
Amazing route definitely soft for the grade (was our first tick on a 21. Very well protected especially on the last 2 pitches. Only used 3 small-mid range cams for the second pitch.
|
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17 |
★★ Falcon Screech P1
![]()
1
17
| 25m, 7 | Hospital Flat | Mer 28 Déc 2022 | |||||
17 |
★★ Falcon Screech P1
![]()
1
17
| 25m, 7 | Hospital Flat | Mar 30 Jan 2024 | |||||
18 |
★★★ Afterglow
![]()
1
16
30m
2
18
16m
| 46m, 6 | The Remarkables | Jeu 1 Fév 2024 | |||||
16 |
★★ Transmagnificantupantransiality
![]()
1
16
18m
2
13
12m
| 30m | Mihiwaka | ★★ Excellent | Dim 4 Avr 2021 | ||||
Tried first pitch. Fair bit sandbagged, plugged gear up to the crux. Couldn’t figure out the overhanging off width.
|
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29 |
★★ Engage
![]() | 15m, 4 | Hospital Flat | ★★ Excellent | Dim 19 Nov. 2023 | ||||
27 |
★★ White Trash
![]() | 15m, 7 | West Wānaka Bluffs | ★★ Excellent | Mar 7 Fév 2023 | ||||
26 |
★★ Reach for the Purple Love Truncheon
![]() | 20m, 8 | Diamond Lake | Ven 19 Mars 2021 | |||||
26 Facile |
★★ Reach for the Purple Love Truncheon
![]() | 20m, 8 | Diamond Lake | ★★ Excellent | Dim 31 Mars 2024 | ||||
Quality techy vert crimping. Requires you to think a bit but not too much. The line of chalked holds up and right from the last bolt and then back left to the lower-off seems like a bit of a cop out? Going up from the big side pull on crimps then a lash for the victory flatty was one of the best bits!
|
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26 |
★★ Sun Salute
![]() | 19m, 5 | Hospital Flat | Jeu 20 Juin 2024 | |||||
25 |
★ Wind Me Up (Need to Unwind Direct Finish)
![]() | 20m, 7 | Diamond Lake | ★ Bon | Mar 4 Mars 2008 | ||||
The guide books crap- but hey I tried hard cos I thought I was on a 23!
|
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26 25 |
★★★ Lollapalooza (Lollapallooza)
![]() | 25m, 9 | Motatapu Valley | ★★ Excellent | Lun 1 Oct. 2007 | ||||
soft
|
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25 |
★ Pierre (Peter)
![]() | 10m, 5 | Wye Creek | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
25 |
★ Mind Bender
![]() | 15m, 5 | Mount Iron | Mar 5 Avr 2016 | |||||
25 |
★ Mind Bender
![]() | 15m, 5 | Mount Iron | Jeu 23 Fév 2017 | |||||
25 |
★★ Should Have Tried Harder
![]() | 15m, 5 | Hospital Flat | Jeu 23 Fév 2017 | |||||
25 |
★★ Drop the Clutch
![]() | 15m, 3 | Hospital Flat | ★ Bon | Lun 4 Jan 2010 | ||||
20 |
★★★ Rogue Erratic (Rogue Erratic P1)
![]()
1
20
| 40m, 13 | Hospital Flat | Lun 27 Juil 2020 | |||||
25 |
★★ The Bastard from Lagoon Avenue
![]() | 25m, 10 | Mount Iron | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 9 Sept 2021 | ||||
25 |
★★ Tuffer (Huffer)
![]() | 12m, 6 | West Wānaka Bluffs | Dim 16 Jan 2022 | |||||
25 |
★★ Eat Yourself Fitter
![]() | 22m, 8 | Wye Creek | ★ Bon | Sam 5 Fév 2022 | ||||
Easy climbing with rests everywhere. Not sure what warrants the three stars?
|
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25 |
★★ Mezzanine
![]() | 30m, 10 | Mount Iron | Jeu 10 Fév 2022 | |||||
25 |
★ Grazon Against Wooly Wullens
![]() | 18m, 7 | Diamond Lake | Sam 12 Mars 2022 | |||||
25 |
★★ TNT
![]() | 15m, 7 | Wye Creek | ★ Bon | Dim 24 Avr 2022 | ||||
I can't think of a softer 25.
|
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25 |
★ Afghan
![]() | 15m, 5 | Hospital Flat | ★ Bon | Lun 25 Avr 2022 | ||||
25 ~24 |
★ Manouevre
![]() | 5m, 5 | Mount Iron | Ven 18 Nov. 2022 | |||||
25 Facile |
★ Manouevre
![]() | 5m, 5 | Mount Iron | ★★ Excellent | Dim 5 Fév 2023 | ||||
25 |
★★ Irony
![]() | 15m, 5 | Mount Iron | ★★ Excellent | Lun 6 Fév 2023 | ||||
I was well chuffed to onsight this today, 4th day on and 4th 25 in as many days. Difficult to hang draws, but managed to pull it off.
|
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25 |
★ On Bidet
![]() | 14m, 6 | Motatapu Valley | Mer 7 Mars 2018 | |||||
25 |
★★ Should Have Tried Harder
![]() | 15m, 5 | Hospital Flat | Jeu 23 Fév 2017 | |||||
25 |
★ Pierre
![]() | 10m, 5 | Wye Creek | Sam 1 Oct. 2016 | |||||
Potent boulder problem to bolt 3. The remainder is trying really hard but failing to be "a line". Powerful finish all the same.
|
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25 |
★ Mind Bender
![]() | 15m, 5 | Mount Iron | Jeu 23 Fév 2017 | |||||
25 ~22 |
★ Crescendo
![]() | 14m, 5 | Diamond Lake | Pas la peine | Ven 17 Fév 2023 | ||||
How is this even a 26?, jugs the whole way and have climbed 22s more difficult than this
|
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25 Facile |
★★ Irony
![]() | 15m, 5 | Mount Iron | ★ Bon | Mar 7 Mars 2023 | ||||
Easy to read from the ground, maybe it is 24.
|
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25 |
★ Afghan
![]() | 15m, 5 | Hospital Flat | ★ Bon | Sam 28 Oct. 2023 | ||||
Warm up and warm down, the only route climbed today. Better than nothing!
|
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25 |
★★ Drop the Clutch
![]() | 15m, 3 | Hospital Flat | Ven 3 Nov. 2023 | |||||
Soft, great movement on the arete!
|
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25 |
★ Changes In Time
![]() | 25m, 10 | Motatapu Valley | Mar 14 Nov. 2023 | |||||
Surprised myself, totally miss read it and still managed to find the good holds. Great climb!
|
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25 |
★★ Drop the Clutch
![]() | 15m, 3 | Hospital Flat | ★★ Excellent | Dim 19 Nov. 2023 | ||||
25 |
★ Acid Test
![]() | 17m, 6 | Hawk Wall | Ven 19 Jan 2024 | |||||
Bouldery with lots of good stances
|
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20 |
★★★ Rogue Erratic P1
![]()
1
20
| 40m, 13 | Hospital Flat | Mer 24 Jan 2024 | |||||
Did first pitch to get up to the ledge.
|
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25 |
★ Mind Bender
![]() | 15m, 5 | Mount Iron | ★★ Excellent | Mer 24 Jan 2024 | ||||
V5 |
# 28. Low traverse
![]() | 3m | Wharewerawera / Long Beach | Dim 11 Fév 2024 | |||||
18 |
★★ Trial & Tribulation P1
![]()
1
18
10m
| 10m | Diamond Lake | ★★ Excellent | Mer 17 Avr 2024 | ||||
25 |
★★★ Moby Dick
![]() | 20m, 8 | Hospital Flat | Lun 13 Mai 2024 | |||||
25 |
Cutting it Fine
![]() | 20m | Hospital Flat | Lun 13 Mai 2024 | |||||
25 |
★ Corruption At The Top
![]() | 10 | Hospital Flat | Lun 13 Mai 2024 | |||||
25 |
★ Touch of Gray
![]() | 20m, 6 | Diamond Lake | Lun 13 Mai 2024 | |||||
25 |
★ Fifty Not Out
![]() | 10m, 6 | Diamond Lake | Lun 13 Mai 2024 | |||||
25 |
★★ Trial & Tribulation
![]() | 20m | Diamond Lake | Lun 13 Mai 2024 | |||||
25 |
★★ Positive Vibrations
![]() | 18m, 9 | Diamond Lake | Lun 13 Mai 2024 | |||||
25 |
★ Grazon Against Wooly Wullens
![]() | 18m, 7 | Diamond Lake | Lun 13 Mai 2024 | |||||
25 |
★ Small But Perfectly Formed
![]() | 10m, 3 | Motatapu Valley | Lun 13 Mai 2024 | |||||
25 ~26 |
★★★ Jager Bomb
![]() | 17m, 8 | West Wānaka Bluffs | Lun 13 Mai 2024 | |||||
25 |
Lockdown
![]() | 15m, 6 | Mount Iron | Lun 13 Mai 2024 | |||||
25 |
★ Mine, Mine, Mine
![]() | 20m, 7 | Mount Iron | Lun 13 Mai 2024 | |||||
25 |
★ Manouevre
![]() | 5m, 5 | Mount Iron | Lun 13 Mai 2024 | |||||
25 Facile |
★ Changes In Time
![]() | 25m, 10 | Motatapu Valley | ★ Bon | Lun 3 Juin 2024 | ||||
25 ~24 |
★★ Unrequited P1
![]()
1
25
25
A little damp but much better than the seeping cracks of the other climbs. Proof you can still climb at Lovers in winter! Exciting climbing, good rests, good gear to finish. A full body workout! | 25m, 8 | Lovers Leap | ★★ Excellent | Dim 23 Juin 2024 | ||||
24 |
★★ The Engorger
![]() | 25m, 7 | Motatapu Valley | ★★ Excellent | Lun 1 Oct. 2007 | ||||
nice all the way
|
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24 |
★★★ Zoot Alors
![]() | 25m, 7 | Motatapu Valley | ★★ Excellent | 2008 | ||||
First 24 onsight
|
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24 |
★★ Lunge Starter
![]() | 15m, 4 | Hospital Flat | Lun 20 Nov. 2006 | |||||
damp on top...........pretty greasy
|
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24 |
★★★ Zoot Alors
![]() | 25m, 7 | Motatapu Valley | Lun 7 Jan 2008 | |||||
24 |
★★★ Zoot Alors
![]() | 25m, 7 | Motatapu Valley | ★★★ Classique | Lun 1 Oct. 2007 | ||||
great climbs
|