★ Shelob 16

Contexte de la cotation : AU
Longueur: 35m
Spits: 2
Ascensions: 11

Accès: Waitawheta track access closed due to rock fall

The crown tram track up the Waitawheta gorge that is the usual access for the Gorge climbing area is closed due to a significant rockfall. Locals still use the route (a couple gates to jump and slip to scramble over) but could be risky in rain or wind. A high route exits on the true right bank - take the windows walk track and find a small steep track 50m before the first 'windows tunnel'. This joins a good traverse track that goes under the Khan buttress and comes out at the Prelude Buttress under the route 'Shade of things to come'. Update: The windows track is now reopened, hopefully permanently, making this the easiest access.

Détails de l'alerte et commentaires

A ajouté il y a un an environ - A édité il y a 9 semaines

description

An excellent climb whether done in two pitches or one long one. Climb the right side of the initial face to a ledge. Good holds and a vague groove lead to a leftwards slanting crack with a piton near the top of it. Above this easy climbing leads to a small ledge on the rib with a bolt belay. Belay here or lead on. Step left and gain a large ledge via the corner. There are 2 bolts (replacing old pitons) that protect the corner and moves off the ledge. Climb directly above the far right end of the ledge to a good wire and easy climbing to the large sloping ledge above. There is a bolt belay at the back of the ledge. A third pitch is possible above this but is very short.