Noeuds dans Waikato

A tough onsight! 1) 23. 10m, 3 bolts: Move right onto the hanging roof and up to a seated belay on at the Rumpus Room anchor.

1. 1. 20m, 8 bolts: Fairly direct up to a powerful crux sequence.

Dan Head, Dylan Ball, Matt Thom; Apr 2011.

Bold and beautiful. Tough for the grade unless you’re brave and know the moves. As for Fly My Pretties, but go right after the 2nd bolt onto stupendous terrain!

Starts right of Have a Cigar in the corner. DBB high up in the cave on the left in the 'Rumpus Room'

Starts at the top of the Rumpus Room at the chockstone. Continue upwards through the cave into the beyond.

Starts in the corner just before the first board walk. Head up the crack and exit left to a DBB

Starts up the arete just past the boardwalk. Traverse to the first bolt from the right, then continue up the arete to an interesting crux.

Would be a good idea to anchor the belayer somewhere.

The dirty crack to the right of Human Intervention. Head up the crack until you're almost at the top, then head right to the anchor of Safety In Numbers.

Head up the small groove through thought-provoking movements to the anchor.

Goes up the dirty-looking groove 5 meters right of Safety In Numbers. A wandering route in nature, so do you best to manage the rope drag.

Rappel down to the water from near the base of 'Human Intervention'

The "deep water solo" of Kawakawa Bay. Access is gained by rapping down the tree or off Pirate King then swim across. Care is needed to avoid the rock at the bottom if you were to fall off.

Pitch 1: (19) Head up the arete, then head onto the face with a anchor at the ledge. DBB.

Pitch 2: (19) Head right off the ledge and climb the overhanging face. DBB.

Pitch 3: (17) Continue up the face and bask in the views. DBB.

Just right of Sidewinder. Head up the thin crack on marginal gear to the pitch 1 anchor of Sidewinder. A cool head is required to lead this.

Scramble up the small gully to access this climb. Head up the crack and right-facing corner, ignoring the retro-bolts

Accidental retrobolt of For King And Country.

Accessed via traversing right at the anchor of Hands Solo. Start up the wide chimney, moving left at the break before climbing the chockstone.

The combination of arete and face climbing will lead to some interesting moves and multiple cruxes. Two pitches are required to get down. (There is a midway anchor below and left of the tree)

The overhanging arete right of Road Tripping. Stay off the slab for full value

P1: Start as for Night Rider but traverse right at the 5th bolt to the anchor at the ledge.

P2: Step back left from the anchor and continue up the face.

Link up of P1 and P2 of The Pilgrimage without using either anchor.

Protection is only in the first and last 5m, so has a 15m of ground fall potential. Fortunately, the climbing in between areas of protection is easy.

The zig-zagging crack right of Season In The Abyss.

Classy and absorbing, and recently cleaned. The thin seam and slab 2m left of The Hecklers. Small gear, has a reputation for being a bit run out at the balancy crux but there is enough gear if you take the time to look for it. Abseil to halfway anchors on the arete.

The following three routes are multi-pitch, taking you to the summit via a hand line and shared pitch, and provide access to 2 Minutes In Heaven, New Wave Wall and (indirectly) Odyssey Wall.

It is MUCH faster and safer to walk off - from the top out, walk slightly right then up and left to reach the ridge track (pink tape). Follow this left all the way back to the Upper Bluff track, then down past the Lower Bluff. About 20 minutes back to camp, or about 40 minutes all the way back out to the Point.

You can rap off (4 raps on a single 60m rope) down New Wave Wall or down Fraggle Rock, but note some anchors are hangers-only (pay attention on the way up). There are also plenty of trees for ropes to get stuck in, especially if you are pulling them from a 2-rope 60m rap. Seriously, walk off.

A few meters right of 'Super Natural'. Left of 'The Hecklers' and 'Mexican Americans'

Pitch 1: (22) Straight up the bolted slab/arete, with a crux around the small bulge. (22m, 10b)

Pitch 2: (18) Continue up the slab/arete with some easy runouts near the top. Head up the fixed line to the next pitch. (22m, 9b)

Pitch 3: (16) Access the easy slab by traversing from the left of the slab. Clip the high bolt in the cave then move left to the belay. (18m, 5b)

Pitch 4: (20) Climb out of the belay into the arch before entering the crux. Belay at the ledge. (18m, 10b)

Pitch 5: (23) Cross using the fixed line to the ledge, take a deep breath and pull hard to get through the bolted roof. (15m, 7b)

Pitch 6: (17) Continue up the far easier terrain away from the arete to the top of the wall. (15m, 5b)

Starts left of 'After the sunset' (pitch 1)

Pitch 1: (20) Climb up the slab left of the arête. Crux around the 3rd bolt but balancy and challenging slab with small overhang in the middle all the way up. Follow fixed rope straight up to the next pitch (45m, 11b). Abseiling over anchor of 'After the Sunset' (P1) is possible.

Pitch 2: (16) [16, 20m, 8b] Climb up the slab, follow the line of bolts to the right to the ledge below 'New Wave Wall' (20m, 8b). Same as 'After the Sunset' P3.

Pitch 3: (21) Second line of bolts from the left up over the red face. After getting over the edge keep left and head up around the corner to a two-hangers-anchor. (20m, 7b)

Pitch 4: (23) Climb through the roof and up the long arete shared by After The Sunset. (25m, 10b)

Pitch 5: (14) Up to the very top. (5m, 2b)

Pitch 4 and 5 can be linked, but watch for rope drag and communication problems with second.

Walk off away from the cliff and up to the ridge track (pink tape). See better description above.

Now 5-6 pitches right to the top.

1. [18, 9b] Wander up the arete to the D.B.C. of sunset ledge.

2. [15, 7b] Left into the corner then back right and up to reach the hand rope. Take that leftward.

3. [16, 8b] As for P2 of Mexican Americans to the big ledge below New Wave Wall.

4. [18, 8b] The leftmost line of bolts over bulges to belay below the wall left of the arete.

5. [20, 10b] Up the right traversing line of bolts around the corner to the arete, then up the arete to reach a ledge and anchor. Best clip this with a long sling and continue.

6. [14, 2b] A short easy pitch to the top. Walk off away from the cliff and up to the ridge track (pink tape). See better description above.

Starts high on the wall (100m up!), left of Fraggle Rock. Access by climbing one the multi-pitches that finish close by. From the top of 'After the Sunset', head left (back towards camp) for about 20m until you spot a double bolt anchor to rap in. The next belay station is quite far left. Alternatively, climb the left variation exit for Fraggle Rock to the same top anchor.

Originally a mixed route (one cam at the top), now fully bolted. Definitely worth the effort to try this little beauty. Video link below.

The long clean right-facing corner hand and fist crack with a small roof halfway. Classic, sustained and very well protected. Abseil to the anchors on Sunset Ledge.

Ungradeable, might be the longest 8m of your life. Rap down from the tree at the base of The Hecklers to a pointy block at the waterline, insinuate yourself into the wide crack and thrutch up through the body squeeze. Protectable by #5 and #6 cams, but you may prefer to lose the harness (and helmet) and solo it unless you are fairly skinny. Take care around the loose block inside.

Climb the left-facing corner and crack to the bolted belay on the ledge below the bulge. A great trad lead for beginners.

Starting from the low alcove, bridge the corner and crack and pull over the small roof (crux). Continue more easily up the crack with a wall at left and over a ledge then up to reach the bolted belay. Abseil off and move left to reach the Sunset Ledge anchor (don't miss it).

P1: Start as for Crime Of The Century, moving right at the corner with a handling giving access to a grassy ledge. Can also climb Boat Ramp Crack instead.

P2: (7b) The bolted slab directly above you. From the top head left on the big ledge.

P3: The left arching corner half way along the fixed lines. Traverse right at the top to a DBB.

P4: Continue upwards on good features to a tree belay.

Nicely cleaned up. Start on the face immediately right of Boat Ramp Crack, moving right around the roof to get established on the the arete (crux), then easier climbing follows higher up. For an easier start climb up the hand rope and path a bit and start on the face right of the arete.

Thin crack on the steep face right of Boat Ramp Crack

A dirty climb, but you'll find good consistent climbing up the fun face. Route near the end of the fixed rope.

Starts under the overhang.

Good gear. Climb up the corner to the big vegetated ledge which gives you access to the wall of sirens.

Finger crack at the end of the lower tier. You can sit in the tree for belaying. Bring small cams. From the top of this climb you have access to the wall of sirens.

You will have to climb into this area via one of the last two climbs on the point, then rappel down to the waterline, build a trad anchor and climb back out. It is still pretty overgrown with lichen but is good fun.

Leftmost finger to hand crack on the wall. User anchors as for Benny’s Magical Koura Circus.

The left-most line at Wall Of Sirens. From the small belay ledge there are two options. Either head up the small finger crack (20) or right through the overhanging hand crack (19).

Whatever the option, head left to finish at the anchors of Benny's Magical Koura Circus.

Arange a belay in the long vertical hand crack and climb straight to the top. The friction crux at top is not made easier by the abundant lichen.

Start at the same belay for Delusions Of Grandeur, but at the midway point continue up the arete, then head right to the top slab.

Climbs the narrowing crack from the waterline to the top, starting at fists, then narrows to fingers with a tricky layback for the crux.

A pumpy start leads to easier climbing up the dihedral. Decent gear, a single rack of cams and a good selection of nuts is sufficient.

Belay is on the ledge 6m above the waterline. Head up the corner with the two overhangs, then up the slab. Good gear throughout.

A tad dirty, accessible via a boat. Head up the widening crack to the chimney, then head left to the ledge, then upwards to the trees.

Apparently this is a "shitty" hand jam crack with a layback section.

Mantle start, then head into a hand crack to the top.

Climb Fraggle Rock, Mexican Americans or After the Sunset, or rap down from the top (foot access from Upper Bluff) to get to the wall. At the big belay ledge at the bottom of ATS P4 and MA P3, the 3rd bolted line from the left is Kung Fu Panda, the 4th is New Wave. A hand line leads right here.

Starts with 'New Wave' and heads up past there midway anchor. In the PDF guide its marked as two pitch route (28 30m, 23 15m).

Like '2 Minutes in Heaven', this starts most of the way up the wall. To the right of Mexican Americans pitch 3. Shares the first 15m with 'Kung Fu Panda', then leads right up.

New Wave P1-2 linkup.

The most recent, and exciting wall at K-bay. First accessed via Flippin' the Grader above and right of Boat Ramp Crack. The Odyssey was climbed ground up in February 2011 and was instantly recognised as a classic.

The line of least resistance between New Wave Wall and Californication. Matt doesn't even remember this climb even though he got the first ascent

Pitch 1: (20) From the right side of the cave climb the crack, then bridge and fight your way to the ledge above the roof. Then follow the crack to a bushy gut to the belay

Pitch 2: (20) Continue up the small buttress and into the groove on the left side of the pillar, belaying at the small roof (Trad Belay)

Pitch 3: (20) Go right at the roof and pull over the lip, following the face trending right to a groove and continuing up to the belay

An epic outing with a variety of face, crack, overhang and chimney moves

Pitch 1: (23) Climb past the 2 bolts on the face to a ledge. Continue right off the ledge to an overhanging crack. Battle through it to the belay ledge on your right.

Pitch 2: (23) Climb up the face to a crack/chimney with a small roof. Traverse right underneath this roof, then pull onto the buttress. Continue up to the Lone Pine belay tree.

Only bolted line on Odyssey wall, but you've got to be strong enough to climb this line.

Pitch 1: (17) Starts at the end of the lowest fixed-line. Head up from here, heading up the left line of bolts.

Pitch 2: (15) Head up the easy slab, then head left along the fixed line to pitch 3

Pitch 3: (19) Head straight up above you and get prepared to pull hard

Pitch 4: (24) Head off left up the seemingly blank face

Pitch 5: (25) Continue up and head slightly right and head straight through the roof. This pitch can be aided due to generous bolting by the FA's

Pitch 6: (19) A super short pitch just to marvel in the view

Fully bolted except for the crux pitch that takes good gear (with one bolt to protect the 2nd crux).

Start as for The Eagle Huntress but climbs direct at the middle crux. Lower into the cave via the quick clip anchors to begin pitch two.

Pitch 3 starts off the big ledge. Consistent climbing leads to an easy top section.

Pitch 4 another great sport pitch with a tricky exit and comfy belay ledge.

Pitch 5 (crux) trends right and up with plenty of gear options at the main crux that climbs through an atmospheric overhang.

Pitch 6 a powerful start leads to tecky corner moves that may feel hard until you find your best beta. A great rest post crux leads to a fun, right-trending exit on more cool features.

The climb just to the right of The Raven. Go up the right trending ramp/crack to an overhang. Move left onto a ledge, then continue past a thread option to a mantle that leads to the belay for pitch two on The Odyssey. Trad belay

Climb up the right-trending chimney in the corner. The higher you get the harder the moves are, leading to a ledge to belay off. Continue as for The Odyssey.

One of the best multi-pitch trad climbs in the North Island, some say it is even the best.

Pitch 1: (17) Start from the ledge just right of the big pinnacle from the fixed rope. Climb through the above bulges before moving left under a small roof and through the groove. Belay in the cave (Trad belay)

Pitch 2: (18) Climb through the roof of the cave to a ledge system. Begin the traverse left to a lower ledge system. Continue traversing to a v groove with a crack in the roof above you (Trad belay)

Pitch 3: (22) The money pitch. Blast through the roof crack to easier ground. Follow the finger crack and the corner to the easy head wall and bolted belay. This pitch can be easily aided.

Starts from the top of P1 of The Odyssey.

Pitch 1: (24) originally 25 After establishing on the slab continue up the steep roof utilising the fist-sized pod. Belay above the lip.

Pitch 2: (23) Head up the right hand corner system, then left once you have pushed into the slab.

Bring a #4 cam for the belay. P2 would be improved by adding a bolt or two, to make it more enjoyable /less sketchy (permission granted by the f.a.).

Starts 5m right of The Odyssey.

Pitch 1: (20) Climb upwards trending right, traversing under the roof and past a bulge. Continue to a belay ledge.

Pitch 2: (22) Blast through the thin face to the cave, trending left as you navigate the upper cliff to a trad belay.

Climbs up big holds in the corner and through the roof. Dirty climbing above the roof leads to a trad belay. Continue as for Drunken Monkey or Shoulder Charge.

CLimb up OPC Clones Go Crushing or Drunken Monkey to access this climb. Head up the start for pitch 2 of Drunken Monkey climbing the face to reach a horizontal break. Place some gear before stepping right to the face and the groove above you. Trend right to the first small roof before pulling through the left-hand side of the roof. Move left to the overhanging crack for a sting in the tale finish. Belay as for Of Moss And Men

Pitch 1: (18) Start as for Bangin' 7 Gram Rocks, 'Cause That's How I Roll. Once above the roof continue to a trad belay in the groove.

Pitch 2: (23) Climb up the groove then through two small overhangs. Move right and climb the crack system, zig zagging right then left to the belay

Pitch 1: (17) Head up the overhanging corner, heading right under the small roof to the chimney.

Pitch 2: (18) Head up the chimney and the offwidth. Traverse right until you find another offwidth. Belay at the base.

Pitch 3: (18) Continue as for pitch 2 of Wish You Were Here.

Pitch 1: (17) Head up the right-facing corner system until you're under the overhanging crack. Escape right and around the right side of the bulge. Step left then continue up the groove to a cave belay.

Pitch 2: (18) Exit right of the cave then head up the slab. Head right to climb the corner system and finish by the large block.

A newer line of the crag that doesn't have much information on it. The climb is split into three pitches, with pitch three being 23 with high fall potential.

Climb the left-slanting ledges to the first pitch belay of Ziggy Stardust.

Head directly up the wall on interesting protection in the form of chicken heads. Head right and climb the slab near the arete. Traverse under the large loose block to another arete around a corner. Climb up the arete to a tree belay.

At the base of Odyssey Wall. Head up the blockly buttress to the base of The Odyssey.

Starts at the second cave. Follow the finger crack then mantle onto the face. Head up bushy ledges to a crack system. Keep heading up through bushy terrain through a roof, face and slab climbing. Hard route finding due to the bushy nature of the route.

The Kinloch Crags consists of 4 main spots. K1,K2,K3 and kinloch bouldering. K1 and Kinloch's bouldering is the closest, then K2 which is about 45-1hour walk away. K3 is only accessible by boat. Along the way to K3, there are lots of smaller crags.

Park you car at the end of Ketha place. The boulders are in the trees immediately across from the end off the road.

First boulder you see to the right as you come up the path. First climbs and noted in the guide seem to be on the front of the boulder, facing the path. Newer climbs are on the right side of the boulder

Start right hand in high crack, left hand on low side pull. Move up, traverse right and mantle

Start left hand side pull as for stand start, right hand low crack, crank up to high crack and finish as per stand start.

Start on the good edge down low on the right side of the face, move up to a small two finger edge in the middle of the vague arete then using the very small pinch/side pull or anything else you can find head start up the the lip and mantle.

Pull up onto the blunt arete in the middle of the boulder using a good side pull. Rock up and slap up to the sloper on the lip, then mantle.

Start underneath the boulder with feet on the rock at the back but not the one below the boulder. There's a small right had edge and a decent slopy edge for the left hand on the side of the boulder. One big move up to the jug and finish up 'Rapture'

Start with 3 points on the obvious rail feature low on the overhung face, then head up and right via a series of average edges, taking care to avoid dabbing on the rock behind.

Start matched at the lowest part of the rail feature with feet down low, a few hard moves gets you to the start of 'Humpty Dumpty' and finish as per that climb. Vid https://www.instagram.com/p/Cm3UuUNyfbX/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=