Ascensions dans Nordland par Philip C contenant trad-cpr ou ascent-date

Surprised by how good the other pitches were. One of Lofoten´s best. #4 handy for both roof pitches

Rockfax topo & description were good. Thought maybe bit nicer than Celebrian but definitely no classic. Perhaps something was lost in translation for German to Norwegian grades. Taking 3 full grades off each pitch seemed about right

First 2 pitches were great, it was nice saving #4s for second half of the OW. The bolted last pitch was a bit gross. Recommend skipping that & rapping from P2

Korstoget into Vestpillaren

Such a classic line. For parties wanting to move fast, it can safely be done in 7 pitches by simul-climbing to pitch 2 & then again to P5. From here, pitch out as in the guidebook to a nice ledge 10m above the top of slanting corner (just before the loose block and short wide section). 10/11 can then be linked with a 60m & careful rope management

Gandalf into Gollum to avoid some slippy parts. Vises, Gandalf

Det siste Gandalf klatretur. Kommer til å savne ikke ha dette i bakgården

Eventually figured out midget beta for the crux after multiple sessions. Not fast enough thou before winter hit. Favourite line at the cliff!

Nice steep route. Pulled on gear through P2. First bolted anchor is junk but it´s easy to build a stance directly under the 7+ pitch. Rest of the anchors are in good condition (A 70m gets you to the ground from P2)

It was hard. Suggested rack was a 0.1 micro cam, doubles in black totem to #3 plus a #4. Could get away with less, but was happy to have them all.

Super nice steep climbing with cool movement. Spent 4 rope solo sessions working it. Top 2/3 is fine but initial sequence of moves to establish in the flared jam is right at my limit. Taller friends can skip this sequence & just jam. Need be stronger to make plugging gear at the start feel more secure (the pro is good, the climber is weak).

Seemed like the appropriate time to finally tick this. Super nice crack climbing. Pitch 2 is mega with a couple of really cool boulder problems. Protects well. Carried a 0.2 & triples in 0.3-0.4 but didn´t place them. Standard Lofoten rack works fine.

Short rope practice / Vågarisset recovery session

Lives up to the hype. Heavy. Two 4s & 5s plus a sling is your rack for P2. Lower-off is now a nest of cord & tatt, awkwardly placed high on a flake. The well positioned bolts are missing hangers :((

Sustained, varied climbing with just the right amount of runouts to keep things safe but spicy. The setting is out of this world. One of the very best I´ve climbed in Norway.

#4 for start of P4 nice

Climbs nicer than it looks.

There won´t be a line for this one but it´s 3 varied & high quality pitches. Deserves it´s Top50 guidebook tag

The crag classic with P1/2 linked? So goood!

This line is waaay hyped plus, roof/bulge pitch seeps & will more often than not, be the only wet section on the wall. Not even top 5 on the Festvåg cliffs

30m of surprisingly good hand jams split by 2 distinct crux sections. Had no business being up there, just dabbled while the strong kid rested. All moves go; Linking was hilariously heavy. Fun to touch real climbing

Searching for sun while the projects dry/defrost

Nice climbing. The crux protects well with small wires (or black totem). A great option for busy days at Gandalf

With a pre-placed piece. Great route

A dihedral, roof, OW & some face climbing. Topo says 6+, description says 6 in the guidebook. Either way, crux is short & well protected & there´s lots of nice movement on this one.

Quality climbing, outrageous setting..much less walking than the other routes. What´s not to like?