Ascensions dans Oceania par Liam Davey

Yarded a bit too hard on the spoogy undercling in the roof section and snapped it off The hold hit a ledge on the way down and shattered into a few pieces, luckily missing Michelle on belay.

Sent it next go though, doesn't seem toooo much harder (although it was already very tough at 25). Just forces you into a slightly longer, more technical sequence, which adds a bit of pump.

Very cool climb, the headwall climbs great, and yep, the holds sure are delicate! Spent a long time hesitating to commit to a sequence and got extremely pumped. Crimped, lanked and elvis-legged my way through some moves, almost went to the wrong anchor, but happily got the flash!

Usually find this pretty hard, but felt ok today. Board style climbing on a rope!

Repeated for the camera: https://youtu.be/bU4cGH1cLpE

Still pumpy! Had a lot of fun on it this time though. Adds some interesting alternative moves to the end of an already great route, and the holds seem to have cleaned up nicely over time. Definitely worth doing!

Must have over-indulged on fish and chips and broke the right hand crimp Used to have a fairly positive lip on it that you could 3 finger drag, but now it's a bit more of a slopey crimp. Still goes though, maybe V6? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhRNkoslxwU

Nice boulder, landing seemed a little dodgy with a ledge under your back on the crux move, but I fell quite a few times and didn't hit it. Couldn't do the long bump beta but a heel and cross worked.

Much more technical than Tough Mudder, and IMO a grade harder. Had to spend a good while working out a sequence and finding holds. Rewarding when it all works out though!

Very cool, no trickery really, just pulling hard between decent holds.

Amazing route! Has a bit of everything: (sandy) slab, steep bouldery crux, crimpy face climbing, and a committing finish. Just barely managed to haul my way up on the last day of the trip after a few days falling off.

May need a bit of brushing/cleaning if nobody has been on it for a while, but well worth the effort.

Video: https://youtu.be/jYdcA7jXDpM

Felt harder than 24 to me, got to the last move pumped and just barely managed to lank it. No idea how shorter people would do it. Fun though, and safer than it looks.

First clip is terrifying, looked easy from the ground but the handhold ledges are slippery and the footholds not quite as good as you want when 5m up. Good route aside from that.

Finally Jizz Lobber was dry enough to climb! The rock in the roof is a bit lower quality than the prom, but the route more than made up for it with awesome tensiony moves, jug swinging, and a sketchy slab finish. Definitely a classic!

Video: https://youtu.be/aoIX8oJS41Q

Awesome, deserves its stars!

Nice climb! Very beta intensive, consistently hard moves, and not many rests. Was pumped from the third bolt onwards but had just enough to get to the top.

Thought I had a pretty decent lead head, but this made me question it! Slippery rock, awkward (but very cool) moves, ledges that you probably wouldn't hit but worry about all the same. Took two dogging laps just to figure out a sequence that wasn't too terrifying. So relieved to tick it haha.

Whoo done! No holds disintegrated this time. Felt a lot better coming back fresh than it did at the end of last session. I think 28 seems fair. The traverse is maybe one V-grade harder than the Homophobia / Flash Gordon crux, and you get a fairly decent rest just before it.

Not sure how true to the original line my sequence is though. I traversed the crumbly seam about 50cm below what looks to be the original broken hold, and didn't use the broken hold at all. Continued all the way out left to the juggy lip, then climbed the left arete to the anchors.

Also, thanks Michael for updating the route descriptions!

Oh no! I pulled a fairly important handhold off. Many apologies to anyone who is currently working it (including Karl who was resting for his send burn at the time ). It was one of the glued on holds around the third bolt. Looks like the glue held but the rock it was attached to broke.

I'm happy to buy glue and try putting it back on but worried it will just come off again. Anyone knowledgeable about this sort of thing have any advice?

Super happy to get this one, had to work hard for it! 2 sessions just figuring out beta and finding holds, then third shot today (after getting some beta for the last move). I usually avoid anything less than vertical but got psyched on this. Great climb!

Would recommend a cam in the horizontal crack before the third bolt, is pretty sketchy otherwise.

Punted! Spent all weekend figuring out a sequence for the original finish, finally found one that worked for me on day 3, but only had enough gas left for one full burn.

Surprisingly made it through both the normal crux and the hard traverse below the roof to the juggy arete on the left side of the original anchor. Had just started thinking 'whoo done!' when the jug crumbled and spat me off Ah well, stoked that the original finish goes at a not insane grade, next time!

Direct variant (straight up between 3rd and 4th bolt rather than going right and traversing back left on the sloper rail). Big throw to rail from sharp RH crimp and LH side pull. Felt awesome catching it!

Well this was harder than expected! As hard as Slipper in my opinion. The crux move looked wild from the ground and was just as wild in practice. Had to milk all the rests but managed the tick second shot. Good way to end the trip

Also didn't realize until after I'd followed the chalk and climbed onto the whale tail, but there are anchors directly up from the last bolt. Hard to see from below.

Vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kvZFy1mPlk

Nice climbing, was tall enough to static the long move. Probably no harder than She Magic or Super Funky if you don't have to throw?

Very cool, favourite climb of the trip! Crux sequence is awesome. Felt more solid on this than Slipper. 2nd shot.

Great technical climbing at the top, luckily tried this in the afternoon with the (send) breeze blowing full force. Definitely would have fallen off if I'd tried it in the damp morning haha.

Crux move feels pretty nice with the correct feet, probably easiest of the 25's if tall.

This was the hardest of the 25's for me, couldn't find a good way to do the top aside from just crimping hard.

Excellent climb, no way is 29 though haha. Two V4/5 boulder problems with a near no hand rest in between. 2nd shot.

Vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXEz-9BPkjA

Was a bit scared of the crimpy start with my recently healed pulley, but managed to squash enough fingers on and felt pretty good. Doesn't really add much difficulty to the stand, which is already on the softer side.

Was in struggle town for 10 or so attempts, but made a small blood sacrifice and managed to figure out a much better sequence. Very fun, toe hooks and heel hooks and a big cross, favourite climb of the day.

Hard 3, mixed up the grades of this and Mr Bump and actually felt pretty fair with the grades switched!

Is this an eliminate? I used the high footer just left of the 'MQ3' tag for the big reach out left and moving into the undercling. Seemed like the obvious thing to do but looks like Gareth used the low slippery feet for that bit, but maybe used the 'MQ3' footer for the top? Video is too blurry to tell for sure.

Only felt V8 at most with my sequence, so I guess will log it as a dab haha.

Edit: Uploaded a poorly shot video with my easier sequence (https://youtu.be/a7OkmuTrrPM). Is a fun problem either way, deserves more ascents!

So nice to get back on rock! Had seen some videos of this and was super keen to give it a go. Didn't disappoint! First shot was a bit of a mess with foot slips, pump, and general flailing, but remembered how to climb on the second go and got it done.

Those bolted on holds are hilarious haha. Thought when people said the quarry climbs were manufactured they meant a bit of chipping or drilling here and there, didn't expect a chunk of rock bolted to an otherwise blank face. Too good! Not complaining though, makes for a nice consistent climb.

Thought this was Don't Kill My Vibe when at the crag, no wonder it didn't feel mega classic! Not a bad problem by any means though. Took quite a few attempts, definitely one that's not over til it's over.

Very cool, powerful catch. Felt pretty hard to me, dabbed the pad or missed the good spot so many times.

Favourite problem of the day, strange moves that somehow work out. Complete skin destroyer though, luckily sent before tips started bleeding haha.

Awesome climbing

Very cool, felt hard the controlled way with heel and intermediate sloper. Toe on and blasting worked way better for me haha.

Excellent dyno. Many attempts.

Very cool problem! First of the grade for me (woo purple haha). The hard moves at the start - underclings to wide pinch, tensiony move to pocket - are a nice change from the other more throwy problems nearby. Didn't feel too stout for a V11, but then I could pretty comfortably hold the wide pinch, probably feels much harder otherwise.

Tough one, took about a million shots to latch the move in the middle. So awesome hitting that finishing jug though (and not face planting haha).

Pretty great climb, holds are sharp and tweaky, and the wide pinch is always a bit damp, but for some reason is really fun. I think I invested a bit more into it than normal because it was my benchmark for achieving decent half-crimp strength. Hopefully all that hangboarding is starting to pay off!

Did it as a big throw from the sloper to the top.

Fun throws and an interesting body position dependent sequence.

Another good climb, individual moves aren't so hard, but tough to link. Spent an entire session thinking that it'd go next shot. It didn't. Had to come back fresh.

Awesome climb, moves felt impossible until had the beta just right. Took most of a session just to figure out the first move! Stoked to get it done.

Fell off matching the top 3 times in a row before figuring out how to use my feet.

Yay! Was working the first move and caught it so unexpectedly I almost let go. Was thinking oh wow cool, that works, now I can start having some send burns from the start. Except it was the start haha. Somehow managed to keep it together and finish it. Then had to repeat for the camera I had forgot to set up the first time.

This boulder is actually pretty cool. Desperate start and slam dunk finish. Next time hopefully.