Voies dans Fangatave Beach

The descent gully from a signposted lookout point above, down to the base, some 100M north of Whale wall. Has now been equiped with bolts and rebelay stations for safe ascent when ropes are not fixed.

The wall to the left of the Descent line, snaking with vines and roots, was climbed in an exploratory style for potential beginners routes, but lowered off from a small tree about 9m up, unimpressed.

shares first bolt with "Pepe el Loco" then take right hand line toward tan rock

20m uphill from main whale wall

A short easy pitch to a belay ledge at 12m where the real climbing begins

P1: a groove on the right side leads to the dark featured rock above P2: continue up and right to a small overlap, above this and further right to the second anchor

A high first bolt and cruxy climbing getting past the next two. The rest of the line follows holds up the center of the panel between the two highly featured cave features on either side of the central panel of quality rock.

P2 finishes the line to a shared anchor with "Great Expectations" P2

Shared by several routes above. Climb the easiest line up the corner just left of the "Hounds Head" rock feature obvious on the ground at base of the Whale wall.

Tavake are the white-tailed tropic birds that frequently soar past the cliffs of Fangatave, and the namesake of this climb, in honour of the long white streak this climb ascends, high above the forest. The first pitch is a bit dirty, but well worth enduring for the stunning pitch above.

Have slings to extend draws on p2. When lowering off p2 be careful not to lose the wall, a 70m doubled over will NOT reach the ground with rope stretch. You must re abseil from p1 anchors to reach the ground.

2 pitch (16, 21) access via shared "Whale Access Pitch"

long grade 20 climbing above shared "Whale Access Pitch"

climbed on an anniversary, typical featured pockety climbing up the height of the wall, starts just left of the low cave left of "Whale Access Pitch"

Best to start using the tree where it is closest to the wall. Climb up into the groove feature. Easiest line on the wall, hardest right off the ground. possibly best to start with first two bolts of the line to the left.

Continuation of the line left of Beginners line, although makes for a an easier start. Starts behind some Fa trees, staying just to the right of a ledge/alcove system in the corner further to your left. above find a tufa and chimney system. (Route name suggested by Josh Merriam)

An alternate line, utilizing the hanging start from "Peka's Jail" but climbing up via the left into the easier rock above, perhaps accessing the jail from the rear? evidently two pitches of dubious quality

2 pitches: 19,21. After an interesting start climbing onto the hanging rock, need a stick clip for 1st bolt. endure a bit of sharp dirty rock to access the ridiculously steep and super fun 2nd pitch. An interesting cave in the middle after a biscuity tufa. The anchor is a challenge to clip.

Once above the tree, enjoy long pulls on hero holds on a slightly but consistently overhung wall. Pitch two turns the arete, which has been bluntened somewhat, before firing up the orange rock. For the best experience: stay in the orange, avoid the temptation to cop out left, and solve the crux! Move right a bit at the end and clip from under long, avoiding the black munge.

Starts from its own belay stance, three metres left and down from the "Trust me.." belay. Bolted by Paul Rogers who had to wait for the glue to set and didn't have time to send it. I asked him if its a project and he said it was "Up for grabs".

3P (17, 22, 24) Shares start with 'The White Shield', then diverts to a belay inside the scoop. P2, climb the roof and right arete of the giant scoop, veering left to an anchor above the bulge. The last pitch climbs directly up to finish at the original white shield anchor.

3 pitches: 16,17,26+ or 25. Climb highly featured rock up the left edge of the central column feature. Most will link the first two pitches. The third pitch climbs direct past bolts on clean scalloped rock and slopers, to the mega jug. Very nice, but currently unsent. An easier alternative is to move left at the second bolt, then up steep black pockets and pinches, staying left of the bolts. Note: black rock gets slippery on humid days.

Access the belay stance by sliding left from the top of 'Kina', or right at last bolt of P2 'the White Shield'. Climb steep mostly juggy rock for several bolts through minor cruxes to a great rest pod, then through the last roof via a hand jam to arrive at the base of the headwall. There is a distinct and mandatory crux getting to the last bolt (just right of the white shield anchor). Grab the victory feature mega hold, clip the last bolt, then finish at the tip of the grey water streak.

Named after Kina Taufa. Scamper up to high first bolt on good holds then pass the tufas to a corner system, onto face, into and back out of the dirty black groove, to gain a ledge and belay.

Endure a few mungey holds down low, then blast straight up this long, spacey route, negotiating an interesting corner and arete before arriving at the anchor in a recess.

this was originally explored ground up on fairly spaced but nearly adequate threads and other gear to the spacious ledge. A belay anchor is installed. Any future developers may use the belay ledge at the top as access to the roofs above, and feel free to add bolts for a proper lead.

You'll need some Polynesian navigation skills to get to this one! Starts from belay of third pitch of Skywalker. Clip the first Skywalker bolt, then veer left, cross the crack and head up steep wall on jugs.

Starts on a ledge in an open cave. P1 is steep and juggy. See if you can find the good holds before you pump out! There is a free purple Black Diamond nut for whoever can dislodge it. Head out left to continue upwards. Double bolt belay immediately after you gain the headwall. P2: Keep climbing up and you'll eventually reach the top.

P1. Start up beautifully featured stalactites, columns and flowstone and continue up face before trending right to belay in cave. Extending 3rd RB recommended. P2. Head through stalactites and continue up face trending right to belay in cave.

Descent: Single 30m abseil/rap to ground.

Climbs the obvious hanging curtain of stalactites. Start by climbing unprotected up past the brain to a belay which will help decrease drag. out right and up the ramp to the first bolt and access to the first of the flow. Use a double draw on the fourth bolt (inside the room with no floor) for optimal rope running. The harder climbing begins as you exit out the window and find your way up the final overhangs on great full hand pockets to finish at the base of the headwall. (name changed from Enlightenment)

P1. 19 - Start up a series of ledges and bulges tackled direct to belay at cave and ledge. P2. 20 - Head left from belay clipping hidden 2nd RB after 4m. Continue up beautifully coloured pocketed face and finish steeply up crack and pockets to belay at ledge and cave. A 3* pitch. P3. 20 - Head left from belay through small roof into some sharpish rock and precarious moves to small alcove and ledge. Continue up right side past RB to an exciting finish clipping the chains.

Can be linked to make a great 2-pitch or single megapitch route.

Descent: It is possible to abseil/rap off from the top anchors with a 60m rope perfectly centralised with stretch. Use tree at bottom to push yourself into ledge at base if not quite down!

Start as for pepe's Jungle Jam. Climb this for 4 bolts then right to great looking arete passed another 4 bolts to DBB

Mostly jugs. Anchors to the right of the ledge

Climb the tufa, go right, then up

Climb through overhang at the start, then go up. It's steep and fun!

Located just on the left of the downhill prow of Fa wall. Start below Heavily featured tufa groove, continue up for 8m. Follow sparse pockets up through very steep bouldery terrain to lip.

Starts just right of Blade Runner in the next corner line. Easy start leads to thin crux in left facing corner up to DBB.

Long varied climbing, quite consistent at the grade. Cleaned and sanitized well, but still sharp in places. above the midway anchor, the route veers left at the top to meet the anchor of "Cosmos"

Starts a few meters to the north of Gita. P1 - start up the corner seam placing medium size wires and cams as you go. Over the bulge to double bolt belay. P2 - start up the crack placing med wires and cams. When the crack disappears keep going a few more meters to gain the double bolt belay. Rap back to P1 anchors and re- rap, a 70m doubled over with rope stretch will NOT reach the ground from P2 anchors.

Fangatave is a sport climbing area, however it would be a crime to bolt this line as it can be entirely protected with trad gear. Please respect the wishes of the first ascensionists.

Quality, thin, technical climbing. Very worthwhile. On pitch two, go up and right after the 4th bolt. You won't be able to see the next bolt from where you are, but it's there, don't worry. Both pitches grade 23

A thin technical section near the top makes this route unique

Two pitches make for a long, fun route

One of the easier routes on the wall. Juggy and a bit pumpy

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Very low first bolt. Climb the sharp easy stuff, then move right and go up the tufa system

Sharp at the bottom, gets tricky higher up

Quite tricky and sustained with interesting moves past a tufa and over a bulge

A one bolt variation start leading into B3 of the original upper climbing.

An interesting technical start with some big moves followed by a pump-a-thon

A tricky start followed by a pump-a-thon with a sting in the tail!

Goes through a rooflet that's somewhat tricky. Low first bolt is to protect both climber and belayer from falling off the belay ledge.

Up and under the stalactite then up to a seam which leads to the anchor. Best to stick clip the first bolt.

Third line of bolts. The first bolt is difficult to spot and was placed for a stick clip. Start up the seam to the right.

Open project for anyone that has not done an FA before. Starts in the overhang. Stick climb the first bolt to protect both climber and belayer. Grade around 19.