Aide

Timpuri Noi

  • Contexte de la cotation : UIAA
  • Photos : 2
  • Ascensions : 22
  • Aka: Poligonul Timpuri Noi

Saison

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F
M
A.
M
J
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A
S
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D

Description

Really nice winter crag. In a sunny day 5 degrees are perfect in order to climb here, with sun all day. Whear a helmet as sometimes rocks are falling (might happen even just from stronger winds) Vertical routes, nice climbing and a distanced bolts.

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Cheile Turzii

From Cluj-Napoca (airport available) take E60 road to Turda (around 25 km). From Turda there are two possibilities:

  1. Take DN75 road to Campeni. 7 km after passing Mihai Viteazu turn right towards Cheia village. Pass through the village and continue until you’ll see the gorge (east entrance).

  2. Take secondary road and drive towards Petreștii de Jos village. A short walk from the village will take you to the west entrance of Turzii Gorge.

Approche

Approach the gorges with your car from Sandulesti. Then hike on the red circle trail until you find a cairn where the red circle goes to the right, but you have to follow the path to the left. After going straight ahead for about 5-10 mins you will reach the sector "La Racoare"/Sector A from "Peretele Cald". Continue a bit down on the same path and you will reach the sector Note: right before getting onto the red circle trail you will pass over a gate-chain thing trough some kind of yard with a lot of dogs, but all of them are friendly, altho they bark a lot.

Tags

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie
1 7 46m
2 8 45m
1 5+ 25m
2 7- 26m
3 2 29m
4 7- 23m
5 5+ 26m

Équip.: Nicolae Budeancă, 2024

Équip.: Nicolae Budeancă, 2024

Approach: The route starts on a large ledge (on the right, next to the sport routes of Timpuri Noi sector). You will see an anchor at the base of the route.

  1. First pitch has 12 solid pitons. Easy terrain. Belay at the base of the chimney.

  2. Second pitch starts with a large chimney, that narrows down after 10-15m. The chimney becomes vertical and very narrow, with no pitons on this section, but mobile protections can be placed (small/medium friends). Carrying a backpack can be very uncomfortable. May need to hang it on the harness. Exit the chimney and go right. After a few meters, you will reach a comfortable belay, at the base of a vertical face.

  3. Third pitch: Climb up the vertical face which has 2 pitons. The first one is facing downwards, and might not hold in case of a fall (grade 7- (6,A1)), then go right towards a small concave wall. Climb up and then keep diagonally right, on easy terrain, until you reach the belay.

Descent: You can abseil over the route(not recommended due to possible rockfalls) or continue up to the plateau and then follow the tourist trail.

FA: Octavian Bortoş, Călin M Călin & Charly Silex, 1979

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Jeu 25 Mai
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