Ascensions de Maniaco

Cleaning the route.

Apparently, conditions do matter. Did all the moves smoothly and used a new, better beta for the top crux, and all went much easier than expected. Perfect belay from Mara. Finally sent this pretentious route.

Trying the route in optimal conditions: 18 degrees, dry air, and lots of wind. Did all the moves perfectly but a crimp slipped right after the crux.

Trying the route at 29 degrees after the rain. Stupid, busted a finger.

Remembered the moves, did all of them, but the grip was trash due to humidity. So decided to call it a day before a redpoint burn.

Very hot (25 degrees) and humid. Trying the moves again.

Trying to remember the moves. The finger injury is killing me.

Went for a warm-up. The warm-up turned into an attempt. The dyno hold had water in it as well as the exit ledge. Rested but not enough. Did the move under the top but was too pumped. Rain came afterwards and had to pack up and leave. So, again, fell with the chains within reach. HOWEVER, all crimps felt much easier to hold, and the entire difficult, lower section was far easier than before. I'll take progress for the day and forget about the rain.

Too tired.

Yep, too tired. Face it,

Fell in the crux move. Fingers slipped bacause of sweat. Very hot, 25°C.

Did the lower part and crux dyno, reached the no hands rest and de-pumped. Continued on the easy section but fell right under the top, was too pumped or tired for the end part. However, very satisfied with the new beta for the upper, final section, and the overall performance, given how hot it was.

The lower section got far easier. Flowy. Refined the first crux move and managed to do the rising motion using the new leg holds and the upper gaston. Made the clip. Performed the dyno perfectly, on the second go. Continued climbing (onsighting the rest of the route) until the last ledge, where I tried several solutions.

A bit more tired, but more importantly, with less skin on the left hand fingers. Did all the moves right, also the dyno. Tried to find a solution for the upper ledge, and a layback might work, but was too tired and fell. Next session could quite easily be the send.

Attempt. Did the lower part smoothly, better than before, less fingers, more legs. Fell because my fingers slipped on the sloper. Re-worked the move, with the new beta.

Remembering the route. Redpointed until the main crux, on the first go. Impressive progress since the first (and single) attempt 9 months ago.

Managed to find sequence for the first part of the crux. Smooth!

Found beta for the dyno. Things are beginning to fall in the right slots. Satisfied, next day should be send day.