Ascensions: Ascensions de Creasta Frumoasă

	Cotation	Voie	Style d'escalade	Qualité	Grimpeur
Sam 7 Oct. 2023 - Piatra Craiului
Padina lui Călineţ Padina lui Călineţ
	5	★★ Creasta Frumoasă - avec Silvia	Trad 180m		Marius B
Ven 14 Oct. 2022 - Piatra Craiului
Padina lui Călineţ Padina lui Călineţ
	5	★★ Creasta Frumoasă - avec Andrei Badea 1 4 40 En second grimpé en tête par Andrei Badea We found an extra peg on the right, 2m above the start (not the one on the left that makes your ropes drag). First time on Piatra Craiului limestone, long and balancy moves for the grade, I feel. Utterly lovely. Would have liked a sling around the horn at the chimney exit since the move is unprotected for the second (there's a piton under it for the leader) and falling on it means a 5m pendulum, but there comes a point in a woman's life when she needs to accept that she doesn't fall on 4 UIAA moves on dry sturdy rock in perfect conditions. There's an argument to be had against slinging that horn since it'd need a pretty long sling not to introduce some rather gnarly rope drag (we didn't have anything longer than 120cm, and not many of those either), I think a good compromise would be slinging it but not clipping the rope in it on lead, so when the second reaches the Move they can clip into it beforehand and remove it 15 seconds later - voila, no drag! 2 5 40 En second grimpé en tête par Andrei Badea Meat of the route, two cracks with good holds and long and balancy moves - such a different style than my native Bicaz, I feel. Crux is supposedly on the first, pitoned-out crack (a balancy snaky layback on a stuck flake to reach from 1 set of good footholds to another set of good footholds) but I felt the move on the no-fixed-gear second crux was harder - think there's better beta than the balance-on-one-high-foot-and-reach-up thing I did though. We used a bunch of small friends (BD 0.4 to 1) and slings for pro 3 2 45 En second grimpé en tête par Andrei Badea From here on up it's an easy scramble on the ridge, with little pro possibility (sling the occasional bullshit, but life's pretty friable here) but on super easy terrain. Belay when you find a good rock. 4 4- 55 En second grimpé en tête par Andrei Badea Most of it is more UIAA 1 easy scrambling, with a small chimney at the end (easy, obvious moves)	Trad 180m	★★★ Classique	Ruxandra V
Crux of the route was a boulder problem on the approach, which we found dripping wet, with moving boulders on the top-out (would have been great holds otherwise, this way I had to chimney it). Also, our initial anchor was a pretty crap boulder. Above that on the actual ridge, the rock was dry and lovely. Gear used: small friends, 6 alpine draws, 4 120cm slings

1 4 40 En second grimpé en tête par Andrei Badea

We found an extra peg on the right, 2m above the start (not the one on the left that makes your ropes drag). First time on Piatra Craiului limestone, long and balancy moves for the grade, I feel. Utterly lovely. Would have liked a sling around the horn at the chimney exit since the move is unprotected for the second (there's a piton under it for the leader) and falling on it means a 5m pendulum, but there comes a point in a woman's life when she needs to accept that she doesn't fall on 4 UIAA moves on dry sturdy rock in perfect conditions. There's an argument to be had against slinging that horn since it'd need a pretty long sling not to introduce some rather gnarly rope drag (we didn't have anything longer than 120cm, and not many of those either), I think a good compromise would be slinging it but not clipping the rope in it on lead, so when the second reaches the Move they can clip into it beforehand and remove it 15 seconds later - voila, no drag!

2 5 40 En second grimpé en tête par Andrei Badea

Meat of the route, two cracks with good holds and long and balancy moves - such a different style than my native Bicaz, I feel. Crux is supposedly on the first, pitoned-out crack (a balancy snaky layback on a stuck flake to reach from 1 set of good footholds to another set of good footholds) but I felt the move on the no-fixed-gear second crux was harder - think there's better beta than the balance-on-one-high-foot-and-reach-up thing I did though. We used a bunch of small friends (BD 0.4 to 1) and slings for pro

3 2 45 En second grimpé en tête par Andrei Badea

From here on up it's an easy scramble on the ridge, with little pro possibility (sling the occasional bullshit, but life's pretty friable here) but on super easy terrain. Belay when you find a good rock.

4 4- 55 En second grimpé en tête par Andrei Badea

Most of it is more UIAA 1 easy scrambling, with a small chimney at the end (easy, obvious moves)

Ascensions de Creasta Frumoasă

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