Aide

Breedsnek kloof

  • Contexte de la cotation : SA
6
SA

Description

Climbs listed from Upstream to Downstream

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Magaliesberg

All of the Magaliesberg is owned by private individuals. Access in the mountain is therefore sensitive. The Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) owns property in the Magaliesberg and provides access permits. Access to other crags are provided by their owners. Most of the MCSA property is accessed by crossing over neighbouring properties so it is always important to know and follow the access arrangements when you visit the area.

For more information on routes, access, and permits please see the following websites:

  • Mountain Club of South Africa: www.mcsa.org.za - Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA
  • MCSA Johannesburg Section: https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ - Click on “Access and Properties” for more information on properties.
  • MCSA Magaliesberg Section: www.mcsamagalies.co.za - Go to "Venues" for more information on properties.
  • ClimbZA Wiki: http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/Northwest_Province Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.
  • ClimbZA Forum: https//www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A south-african climbing forum where you can find climbing partners or more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Éthique

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.

Tags

Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © MCSA (MCSA)

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie
1 15 20m
2 15 30m

The climb follows the obvious fault running up the centre of the last major buttress on the left-hand side walking down the kloof. Scramble 15m to the tree belay.

  1. 20m 15 Follow the crackline, moving left beneath the steep section and up to stance on sloping.

  2. 30m 15 Climb up to the right of the open book and move back up left to a deep tunnel. Swing left and up over steep rock to the top.

FA: M. Leigh, H. Robertson & K.M. Smith, 1979

1 13 40m
2 9 30m

This route starts about 10m upstream of CHILDS PLAY .

  1. 40m 13 Climb the easy angled buttress just to the right of a recess, past a tree. Continue upward moving slightly right to ascend the arête up to a small ledge. Traverse rightward to a recess with a crack system. Move up to a ledge.

  2. 30m 9 Traverse rightward for ± 5m and then take the easiest line to the top of the crag.

FA: Darryl Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1988

1 14 30m
2 16 15m
3 11 15m

This climb starts just upstream of the descent gully. The start is marked by a distinct, upstream facing, open book.

  1. 30m 14 Climb the short open book (more difficult for short climbers), move left and traverse around the corner. Scramble up for ± 15m to a face with two vertical crack lines. Climb this face to a good ledge with a tree belay.

  2. 15m 16 Climb the corner above the ledge, keeping right, to a small ledge.

  3. 15m 11 Traverse left and climb a recess. Move left higher up and then right, to avoid a bush, up a final short corner to the top of the crag.

Note: To descend, walk down the gully just downstream of the climb.

FA: Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers & Tanja Truter, 1988

This is an alternative finish to CHILDS PLAY next door, Start below the downstream facing corner (which CHILDS PLAY climbs, the top of pitch two of that climb).

  1. 25m 17 Climb the left wall of the corner, in a rising diagonal line. Cross a small slab utilizing the obvious thin crack traversing it. Finish directly over blocks and ledges.

Note: A pleasant pitch, on lovely rock.

FA: Russ Dodding & B. Marcus, 1988

1 14 25m
2 17 18m
3 13 20m

Start 20m downstream of the blunt arête which forms the downstream edge of the wooded side gully (about half way down the length of the kloof). Start behind a tree, which is close to the rock (cairn), below a small upstream facing corner.

  1. 25m 14 Climb the corner, step right to behind a small tree. Follow the face directly above to ledge on the left (immediately left of the continuation corner, above). Tree belay.

  2. 18m 17 Step back right. Climb the pleasant corner (Crux at half height). Belay on a ledge above and to the right.

  3. 20m 13 Continue up in the line of the corner, climb the blocky rock above to the top.

Note: Descend via the wooded side gully.

FA: Russ Dodding & B. Marcus, 1988

1 13 40m
2 15 20m

A prominent grey face extends upwards from river level on the true right hand side of the kloof, where the cliffs reach their highest. The route goes directly up this face and continues through a nick in the steep orange rock above.

  1. 40m 13 Climb up the centre of the grey face, bearing left to just past the horizontal break, then diagonally right and up to a stance on a blocky buttress (the direct, vertical line from river to stance is graded 17).

  2. 20m 15 Climb up behind stance to shallow recess, using this to break through the steep rock and gain the belay above the small trees.

FA: H. Robertson, M. Leigh & K.M. Smith, 1979

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