Skeerpoort Tous Escalade traditionnelle 6 voies en falaise

The start and most of the first pitch are the same as for 'Cremation'.

1. 40m 11 Start directly below the right side of the right-hand and lower of two massive overhangs. Ascend the prominent open scoop that leads up to the overhang. After 5m move left into a smaller open book and ascend this to the slab (18m). Traverse left across the slab for 22m to a grassy stance 6m from the left end of the slab.

2. 16m 13 Move 3m left to a small open book. Ascend this and continue directly up the face passing to left of a small spike (pinnacle). Finally ascend a short narrow steep chimney to a large ledge.

3. 40m 11 Traverse about 9m left to avoid the overhangs above to a small nose via one or two awkward moves. After a few good moves the climbing eases. Continue directly up to a large ledge (18m). Walk left down the ledge to belay at the foot of the prominent chimney.

4. 18m 13 Ascend the chimney overcoming the overhang by chimneying to a one man stance (peg) with very smooth slab to right and the overhanging corner above.

5. 8m 17 Traverse delicately across the slab to a small stance.

6. 40m 8 Climb up to a small yellow-wood tree and then climb to right of a gully. After another 30m of steep grassy scrambling the grade eases.

Start about 100m right of 'Four Man Gully' and about 2m left of the fence, below a large overhang. At this point the face is split by two lines of overhangs. The route follows a crack on the left-hand side of the lower overhang and avoids the upper overhang on the right. A diagonal traverse back to the left gains arete which is followed to the summit.

1. 40m 11 Follow a ramp slanting to the left for about 18m to gain an obvious slab. Continue in the same diagonal line across the slab to a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and belay at the bottom of a crack level with the first overhang.

2. 20m 15 Climb the crack for 8m (Awkward to start), step right to reach the arete and traverse a few meters to a detached flake. Climb up a few meters on to the top of the flake (care needed here) and then traverse 6m to a good ledge and peg belay.

3. 45m 10 Climb straight up from the belay for 5m and then move diagonally left to reach an obvious arete. Follow the arete to the top.

Starts a few meters up 'Four Man Gully' on the true left hand side just to the left of a tree, opposite 'Sidewinder-Direct'. About 15m above are fairly large overhangs.

1. 20m 20 Climb the scooped face for 3m, then climb up to the right until one can traverse right to the arete. Move around this, and climb the corner above to a foothold stance where the rock steepens.

2. 25m 17 Traverse left to the edge of nothing, up and out of sight, to easier ground ledges lead down leftwards to the 4-man chocks). Climb laid-back rock to belay comfortably beneath the final steep section.

3. 20m 13 Up cracks and faces to summit.

Walk up 'Four Man Gully' and start climbing at the first overhangs.

1. 4m 20 Climb up on the true left to a ledge leading South (i.e. on 'Skeerpoort').

2. 40m 8 Walk along this ledge to a stance where the ledge ends. This is the top of 'Rattler'.

3. 15m 13 Climb up easy ground to a large stance from where the impressive brown overhanging face can be seen. The next pitch gets to the base of this face.

4. 15m 20 Traverse right for 3m to a corner. From the corner move right, first on small holds then to a jug. From the jug climb up diagonally right to a stance in another corner. The overhanging brown face is up and to the right.

5. 25m 17 Climb the corner. Move 1m left where the line diverges. Climb past a large roof, which is on the left, by lay-backing a flake. Stance on easy ground.

Note: Pitch 4 makes it "worthwhile".

This route climbs an amazing crack system up the ‘impressive brown face’ referred to in 'Mixed Grill'. This overhanging face is clearly visible from the start of 'Four Man Gully' , high up on the 'Skeerpoort' side and not on the dome itself. Walk up 'Four Man Gully' and scramble up chocked boulders until able to scramble (almost) right around towards the steep face. One is now at the start of pitch 4 of 'Mixed Grill'.

1. 15m 20 As for pitch 4 of 'Mixed Grill'. i.e. traverse right for 3m to a corner. From the corner move right, first on small holds then to a jug. From jug, climb up diagonally right to a stance in another corner.

2. 35m 21 To get into the crack system running up the steep wall, climb down from the stance, then up wall. Climb crack system until bulge. Make a hard move over bulge and up an amazing hand jam crack and excellent rock. Climb the very steep crack until angle eases. Continue jamming until able to stance at tree. Amazing!

Climbs the overhanging blocky wall opposite 'Pasta Noises' and "Trundle Time'. Holes for about 5 bolts drilled, but no bolts added. Will need additional trad gear.