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Climb 2m to a small ledge, weasel your way (left or right) of a small chimney trending up and right follow you nose up to a good ledge with a tree, continue up on the left hand side of the tree. FA: Nic Grech-Cumbo, Delpoort Botma, Courtney Robinson, Mathias De Beenhouwer

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

Start in the small recess. Climb the corner and move out to the arete when possible. Follow the crack line and then pull through some overhangs to the top. Easy but technical first 10 meters.

To the right of Surami. Starting in the small crack in the open book, the head left up the main crack

Route can be top roped, else 1bolt+Anchors

1. 40m (F2) Climb crack via tree to large ledge.

2. 8m (E3) Walk across to rock face. Climb to top of small rock pinnacle.

3. 25m (F2) Step across to main face and traverse left for 2m to below overanging crack. Pull-up into crack and ascend face to tree belay.

4. Traverse and walk right for about 30m past two large open books to corner.

5. 25m (F1) Climb corner and face to block stance.

6. 25m (F1) Climb diagonally right to top.

Pitch 1 has been climbed by unknown parties prior to FA.

Start 40m right of chimney. Scramble up to ledge.

1. 15m (D) Traverse left to foot of chimney.

2. 30m (E) Climb chimney to top of large chockstone.

3. 25m (F1) Traverse left around corner. Ascend recess to platform below chimney.

4. 25m (F2) Ascend chimney to chockstone

5. 25m (F2) Climb diagonally across right face towards tree. Traverse 5m below tree to right hand side of ledge. Mantleshelf up to ledge. Tree belay.

6. 30m (E3) Start in groove 2m left of tree and climb straight up to big overhangs. Traverse out right to corner stance.

7. 30m (D) Scramble via grass ledges to top.

From the start of Naked Orange, walk along the rock face to the right until a ledge is reached. Continue along the ledge (about 150m) to a 4m open book with a beacon at the start. This is about 50m to the left of C cad.

1. 25m (F1) Climb the open book, traverse 2m to the right and continue up a crack and a face to a ledge capped by overhangs.

2. 10m (F2) Climb the recess, traverse delicately 2m to the lef, then climb a smooth bulging face to a stance with a wedge belay.

3. 25m (F2) Move up to just below an overhang, make a tricky move to the left and continue traversing 13m on the same level to a stance in a recess.

4. 45m (E3) Climb out diagonally to the left to a little tree to the left of a steep face, then move to the right and up a recess to a big tree.

5. 30m (F1) Continue up to the left at first, then diagonally to the right onto a smooth ledge. Move to the right into a corner, do a delicate pull-up mantleshelf out to the right and move up to big ledge.

6. 45m (E3) Scramble diagonally to the left at first, to an obvious crack in a little buttress. The route here crosses Cycad. Climb up to a stance 5m below a tree.

7. 45m (E2) Climb past the tree and continue up just to the left of a cycad to a comfortable ledge with two trees. This stance is shared with Cycad.

8. 45m (E1) Continue up the face. Further scrambling leads to the top.

Start in a chimney abut 10m to the right of Vegetarian. This is 15m to the right of a very prominent chimney.

1. 40m (F1) Climb the chimney past a little tree to a little ledge. Continue up just right of the edge of some long slabs to a big block.

2. 20m (F2) Move to the left and climb up just left of the slabs to below a little overhang. Climb awkwardly up right onto a ledge. Step slightly left then with the aid of underhand grips and a layback gain a ledge up to the left. Move onto a big boulder then diagonally right to a tree on the face.

3. 40m (F1) Continue diagonally up right to a slight overhang and traverse right up to atree.

4. 45m (D) Traverse 45m to the right to a slight recess. This is about 5m to the right of a big tree.

5. 38m (F2) Climb the slight recess to a small overhang. Move up to the left then up a few meters until one can step to the right. Make a tricky move left then up 4m to a stance.

6. 45m (F2) Climb up 1m the traverse delicately left into a corner. Move delicately left to reach a thin vertical crack 3m. Ascend the crack (strenuous). Continue to top.

Approximately 200m to the right of the fence is a big brown patch of rock 40m up. The right-hand side of this has a big overhang and the left a recessed crack, with a tree about 8m up.

1. 30m (F1+) Start at lower rockband, below recess line. Climb short open book, moving out left and up to grassy face. scramble to foot of main rockband.

2. 15m (F1) Climb the crack up to a tree, then traverse to the left over a big block to a good tree belay and stance.

3. 40m (F1) Continue up to the left over blocks to a little overhang. Traverse 2m to the left, then climb a grassy face to a good ledge with a tree belay and stance.

4. 40m (F2) Move a bit to the left and climb up to a tree directly above the belay ledge. Traverse to the right, step down and across the main crack. Continue up to the right onto a block, then climb a weathered face above a little overhang. Surmount this and continue for 6m to stance above.

5. 43m (F1) Traverse 8m to the right to a smooth open book. Straddle and pull-up to the right. Continue diagonally up to the right to a good stance.

6. 30m (E2) Move up 3m then diagonally to the left to the top.

Note: This route partly resembles a climb called Spinnekop opneed in April 1950 by D R Bell and B I Harris. The first pitch starts 50m t ot the left of Carnivorous. The second antd third pitches are synonomous. Unfortunately it was not possible to trace the original route rom pitch four onwards.

The climb starts at the very lowest point of the rock face directly below a large open book high above.

1. 20m (F2+) Climb crack to big ledge (beaconed).

2. 15m (F1) Walk slightly diagonally right to tree belay beneath open book. Ascend open book to chockstone belay.

3. 30m (F2) Climb right-hand open book deviating left 10m up where crack becomes over-hanging. Return to open book and climb via tree to large ledge.

4. 35m (F2) Climb left-hand crack system and continue up open book to comportable stance and chock belay.

5. 15m (F2) Continue climbing open book to good stance and chock belay.

6. 22m (F2+) Climb left to hanging bush above to grassy ledge. Continue up crack to tree and chock belay.

7. 35m (F2) Climb open book to top.

Scramble to foot of lower main face.

1. 25m (F2) Start in centre of face. Ascend face to join diagonal recess running from right to left. Follow recess to big ledge.

2. 25m (F1) Climb left hand chimney system to narrow ledge below first bulge.

3. 15m (F2) Follow crack system. Surmount three successive bulges to grass ledge above. Traverse left around pinnacle and scramble up to ledge with blocks.

4. 20m (F1) Ascend left hand side of pinnacle to top.

The climb follows a line up the centre of a buttress to the left of a large grass ramp, which ends at the neck between the main krantz and the free-standing upper section of the buttress. Scramble up to grass ledge below buttress. Take the second crack from the right, which has a tree growing out of its lower section.

1. 40m (F2+) Climb crack for 30m and step left onto ledge below crack in open book.

2. 28m (F2) Climb crack for 20m to platform. Step down left 3m onto face. Tension traverse left fro 3m (peg in place) to stane around corner.

3. 15m (F2 A1) Climb bulging crack above (A1 - 2 moves) and tontinue to ledge.

4. 25m (F2+ A1) Climb crack to tree (2m above large ledge). Traverse 10m right into recess (topped by large overhang).

5. 15m (F2 A1) Climb recess to small stance and chock belay.

6. 20m (F2 A2) Climb via bulging face (A1) to below overhang. Traverse left and surmount overhang (A2) to ledge. Scramble right and up to top.

The climb is situated on the left side of Amphibian Tower.

1. 25m (F2) Climb crack system directly to the left of the Tower to large cubbyhole.

2. 25m (F2) Climb out left of cubbyhole and continue straight up to ledge. Traverse 2m right to bottom of crack and climb same to ledge and large block.

3. 20m (F1) Walk into corner and straddle up open book to ledge and then diagonally up left around Tower. Ascend a shallow corner to gain the main recess.

4. 25m (F2) Move up to neck. Start on the left corner of the final tower, traverse back right and climb corner and up right to a small awkward ledge from where it is possible to traverse right to virtually the front of the tower, then ascend to the top.

Start 20m left of an obvious chimney with round overhangs.

1. 35m (F2) Climb the corner of a crack for 15m then move diagonally right to a recess. Climb straight up the recess to easy ground. Tree belay.

2. 40m (E3) Climb straight up keeping left out of gully in easy rock.

3. 40m (E2) Continue up to a short chimney. Block belay at top.

4. 30m (F1) Traverse right to a small recess (2m high). Climb straight up for 5m then traverse right into a chimney stradling up into the back of the chimney. Belay (poor).

5. 20m (F1) Bridge and straddle up and out of the chimney and to a ledge.

6. 35m (F1) Traverse left over a fault to a wall and climb to a ledge. Traverse right along edge to a wall on the right side of the fault. Climb up to a platform and tree belay.

7. 20m (F1) Scramble into the back of a chimney and up through a hole to a ledge. Tree belay.

8. Scramble to top.

The line goes up a big open book about 100m to the left of the right-hand gully. It starts to the left of some impressive overhangs capping a huge sheer face. The climb commences up the very next open book to the right of a prominent rock buttress seen on the lower section of the climb.

1. 15m (F2) Climb open book to ledge and tree belay.

2. 20m (F1) Climb fault on the left up into chimney and chock belay.

3. 25m (E2) Climb deep left-hand chimney and traverse out right to ledge.

4. 40m (E1) Ascend recess to ledge and then walk diagonally right to face and climb same; walk right around corner to below huge open book.

5. 25m (F1) Straddle and surmount chockstone and then walk into back of recess and chimney up and out of recess via big leaning flake. To avoid overhanging recess with bush at its top, traverse out right and climb up to next ledge. Traverse back into crack and chockstone belay.

6. 25m (F2) Follow fault to large ledge below open book.

7. 20m (F2) Climb open book with some strenuous moves and mantleshelf awkwardly to ledge and stance.

8. 20m (F2) Continue up open book. Stance below final roof on ledge.

9. Walk along ledge to first corner and scramble to top.

The climb spirals up and around the buttress and starts 100m up the kloof.

1. 20m (D) Up broken grey face to ledge, slightly right of obvious open-book recess in the face above this ledge.

2. 30m (E2) Traverse right (out of kloof) along ledge.

3. 20m (E2) Continue traverse to bushed section of ledge.

4. 30m (F2) Scramble unroped about 30m along the bushed section of ledge onto the corner. Belay at this point. Climb up 6m immediately above the highest point of the ledge, traverse 18m right, then 6m up open book (using left hand side) to ledge and piton belay.

5. 33m (F2) 5m up open book immediately above belay point. Traverse right 23m. Towards end of traverse two steps each of 3m are made. (First 5m is F2, rest is D-E)

6. 18m (F2) Continue traverse over delicate section and make exposed "swing up" move to piton belay on ledge.

7. 12m (F2) Move down 3m into cubby-hole at foot of vertical crack which is then climbed for 9m to ledge at foot of the second section of the crack.

8. 18m (F2) 6m up crack into chimney of easier standard which is climbed for 12m to ledge.

9. 33m (D) Traverse 15m into corner of relatively large recess, the left hand side of which is climbed for 18m to belay point on ledge.

10. 30m (E2) Diagonally up out of the main recess onto large platform on left hand wall of recess.

11. 30m (C) Traverse right 18m, diagonally up to left 12m, 30m scramble then leads to a nek overlooking the kloof and almost immediately above the start of the climb.

12. 15m (E2) After walking 30m along grass ledge from the nex, traverse 3m round corner into grassy open book which is climbed to ledge at foot of vertical section.

13. 33m (F2) 6m up right-angled corner, traverse right 9m and then up 3m over grass. Traverse right 9m and up 6m also over grass.

14. 30m (E2) 5m up open book. Easy traverse right 25m to corner and tree belay (first on climb).

15. 30m (E1) Up broken ridge to small beacon. Unroped scrambling along the ridge for about 115m then leads to the summit beacon.

This route starts on the N.E. corner of the South Donjon, where a very obvious series of horizontal bedding plane ledges run into the rising foot of the cliff just around the corner.

1. 5m 10 Ascend the initial 5m. Walk to the left about 300m.

2. 30m 10 Climb down to the next obvious ledge, traverse left using underhand grips, and ascend to a stance at the foot of an obvious recess.

3. 33m 14 Ascend an easy section of chimney to a ledge. The Fislayjam section follows, up a slightly overhanging section of the recess. Continue up easier rock to a tree stance.

4. 33m 14 Continue up recess, up a face to left of crack, and left around small overhang. Continue over dirty section to block and piton stance on long ledge.

5. 7m 14 Ascend slight recess (to left of main recess) and do an awkward swing back into the main recess. Tree belay.

6. 33m 12 Climb easy chimney, then face followed by a more difficult face and layback crack to a large ledge with ample blocks. Scramble diagonally up right through bush to the top.

The obvious crack in the chimney on the left of Bone voyage. climb up to tree for 2nd placement, follow Crack and stay on righthand side of chimney until the top. Find obvious tree for top anchor.

Ascend the obvious, short open book to the right of the picnic site as you look at the crag. The route ends at a pair of glued in rings. Plenty of options for bomber trad placements along the way.

Immediately to the right of Spin-Arete, follow the line of bolts up the centre of the small face. Shares the fourth bolt with Damhan-Allaidh and ends at the top anchors of Spin-Arete.

On the right hand wall of the gulley. Climb up the roots on the left of the large tree, head directly up a few meters veering slightly right. Continue up to the stance.

Situated 25m downstream of the spring (at the base of 'Moses') and therefore directly opposite NETTLE GULLY is an obvious downstream facing open book.

1. 25m 13 Climb the open book to a ledge and tree belay.

2. 25m 14 Climb the corner at the back of the ledge past two trees, to reach the base of an obvious corner which is followed to the summit.

The climb is situated on the right extremity of the 'Baby Face' buttress. Walk 10m right from the start of 'Bouncing Baby' around a bulge to an obvious recess.

1. 25m 13 Climb the corner/recess to a small overhang. Move left onto wall. Climb this to big ledge. Walk right for 3m to tree belay.

2. 25m 14 Move right for 5m past line of trees above. Climb centre of face to top. (The centre section of this face becomes rather thin halfway up and can be avoided by moving right or left.)

The climb goes up the downstream face of the buttress which lies 45m upstream of the small water pipe which runs down the krantz. 2,5m left of 'Finger Thing' is a tree with a crack behind it which leads to a large ledge.

1. 15m 11 Climb the crack behind the tree to a large ledge. Belay about 4m at the back of the ledge at some trees.

2. 35m 14 Move right onto a face, keeping more or less in the middle. All the ledges slope left into a deceptively deep chimney. Avoid climbing too far left. Zigzag up the face keeping more or less to the centre. 5m from the top traverse diagonally right to an arete on the right hand edge of the face. Continue to the top.

The climb starts where the water pipe running down from the top of the krantz reaches the floor, upstream of 'Cadbury Double Thick'. The climb follows the arête just left of this pipe.

1. 45m 14 Start in the cubby hole where the pipe comes down. Move out left onto arête . Follow this arête, keeping on the wall just to the left of it. Climb past two big flakes. Ascent steep crack on good holds to big ledge. The pipe crosses this ledge.

2. 15m 13 Move 2m right from the right end of this ledge. Ascend wall above to top.

Located between 'Fo' and 'Fum'.

1. 35m 14 Climb the crack to the right of FOE to a tree. Follow the wall above into a recess and pull into the V-groove above. Ascend the right-hand groove to the top.

1. 25m 14 Climb the face and then the crack left of 'Biliary Kills'.

From the meeting spot, walk about 100m upstream until a break in the pipe is reached, just below 'Zimbabwe Face'. 20m above this, on the true right, there is a steep gully up which one can scramble to reach the top. Just upstream of this again, there is a small amphitheatre, with a small cave at ground level. Scramble up 10m to the start of the open slabs. In the corner on the right, there is a continuously overhanging corner. Left of the corner, there is a slightly on-angle slab, with two steps of roofs. The route takes the obvious crack line through these roofs.

1. 30m A1 There is a convenient ledge to belay from, belay in the crack on the right-hand end of the ledge, but start climbing 3m left of this. Easy nutting and solid hooking up the slab, until a sketchy free move finds one on a narrow, glassy, sloping foot-ledge just below the first roof. A solid cam in the lip, followed by a few hook moves brings one to the second roof. An awkward move onto a broad ledge is the end of the aiding, and easy free follows straight up to a huge slab-ledge, with superb pro.

2. 25m 14 Follow the slab above the ledge to the trees and blocks at the top.

Notes:

1. Descend by abseiling the second pitch, then scrambling easily left into the gully mentioned earlier, and thence to the bottom.

2. A short, fat "universal" or "stake" piton would be useful on the initial slab on the first pitch to provide protection for the hook moves.

Start 3m to the right of the chimney with the chockstone i.e. 1 m to left of the large tree.

1. [14] 20m Climb the series of short open books leading right to the larger smoothed walled open book at the top, climb this to a large ledge.

This climb takes the buttress directly above the meet spot.

1. [14] 30m Climb easy rock up to the overhang. Move left to the ledge. Climb the crack system just to the left of the nose (crux). Move up to the ledge above the nose. Continue easily up a series of ledges to the belay in the shade of a small tree.

Two low-angle tree-filled gullies enter Trident on the true left at the dogleg between the upper and lower climbing area. (These gullies are extensions of the upper and lower parts of the kloof respectively.) From the stream bed walk about 100m up the upper gully to where the true left side reaches its' highest. The route follows a red dihedral, topping out at a one meter long horizontal rock finger. Belay on top of a four meter high rock buttress between a tree and the base of the face.

1. 30m 14 Climb diagonally left over an easy juggy wall to gain the dihedral just above a large creeper. Keeping in the corner as much as possible, climb to the top.

15m downstream of 'Swiss Army Knife' is a gully. Walk up gully for 10m to the start of rock proper.

1. 18m 13 Climb the corner formed by a left slanting crack and a face to the left of it for 10m. Exit onto big ledge to the right. Walk along ledge for 8m to a broken corner.

2. 30m 14 Climb broken corner and follow recess above to top. Tree belay.

Note: Surprisingly good climbing on clean rock. 2 very old pitons were found on pitch 2.

Using the first grade 7 pitch of 'Onderstebo', gain the large tree. Step right onto blocks.

1. 20m 13 or 17 Climb a V-shaped recess capped by a roof until under the roof (4m). Break out right (13) or break straight through (17). Continue up a clean recess/ crack slightly to the left to the top.

This climb starts left of 'Midnight Crawl'.

1. 20m 14 Climb the short face, pull through an overhang and continue up to a good ledge.

2. 20m 13 Climb the break above to the top of the crag.

The route climbs the pronounced chimney some 5m downstream of 'Low Earth Orbit'. Start from the same long sloping ledge marking the start of 'Low Earth Orbit'.

1. [14] 25m Climb the chimney, delicately at first, to reach the tree above. Regain the chimney, with difficulty, and continue to reach the comfortable belay stance on top.

Notes: Protection is adequate though hard to find. When the tree disappears one suspects that the grade is going to jump a tad. Descend as for 'Midnight Sprawl'.

The route takes the bottomless laid back open book(s) immediately downstream of the 'Midnight Sprawl' buttress - cairn.

1. [14] 40m Climb up the base of the first open book (approximately 4m up). Gain this with some trepidation (crux). Climb up the laid back open book above to reach the bulge at the top. Move through the bulge on left to gain the second open book above. Climb this. Careful of the loose block above the tree. Move left and climb the clean crisp rock above until forced to exit left. Climb up to the comfortable stance on top via the short wall. Careful of another possibly loose block on top of the wall.

Notes: Easier than it looks. The holds are all there. Superlative clean climbing. Descend as for 'Midnight Sprawl'.

This is a 15m high pinnacle on the right hand side, reached by following the stream past Castle and Knight gullies and wading through pools for about 100m. The pinnacle may be climbed by a difficult route on the stream side (15) or by a route (10) on the upstream side starting where the pinnacle joins the wall on the kloof.

As one walks from the meet site down rightwards towards the 'Muffin-Direct' area, a short buttress is encountered. A little further is a second buttress. 'Easy Glider' climbs the first buttress. 'Quickly' takes the 2nd.

1. [14] 20m Climb the face and crack system to top of buttress.

1. [14] 20m Climb the recess / crack system to left of 'Quickly'.

This climb starts to the left of the climb 'Time Limit' below a face.

1. [14] 40m

   Climb the easiest line up the face to a good ledge.

2. 40m 11 Climb the non-de script rock to a ledge. Scramble to the top.

Takes the small open book 2,5 meters to the right of 'Jeremiah Was a Bullfrog'.

1. 23m 14 Climb the broken rock to the base of the crack system in the open book above. Jam up this then stem delicately to clear to the left and ascend to the same stance as used by 'Jeremiah Was a Bullfrog'.

Takes the layback crack high up, below the square roof some five meters to the right of 'Little Creatures'.

1. 22m 14 Climb the broken rock to start and gain the base of the superb layback type crack above. Stem/layback up this until the square roof is reached. Break right to clear. Ascend the arete to the comfortable belay ledge above.

Climbs the obvious broken groove at the right extremity of the blocky wall on the opposite side of the narrow gully containing 'Good Time' and 'Party Girl' .

1. [14] 25m Climbs the groove, watch for loose shit here and there. Follow the obvious line to the top.

Note:

Loose in places.

This route is on the same buttress immediately downstream of 'Right Corner Overhang'. It commences at the foot of a recess which slopes up from right to left.

1. 23m 14 Ascend the recess to a point immediately beneath large overhang. Traverse 6m right beneath the overhang to eye hole stance at the top of pitch 1 of 'Right Corner Overhang'. The difficulty arises in making the final move onto the stance.

2. 11m 13 Ascend the steep shallow crack slightly to left of eye-hole until forced to left by overhang onto an exposed grey slab. Ascend the grey slab near its left (outer) edge to easy rock.

3. 15m 5 Continue directly up to grassy ledge with large stamvrug tree.

Start 4,5m left of 'Right Corner Crag' next to a niche.

1. 25m 13 Ascend the wall on good holds to a ledge below a huge flake which reaches up to the overhang. Ascend the flake crack at the right hand side to the overhang, then traverse to the left hand top of the flake.

2. 10m 14 Pull over the bulge on good holds. Continue up the rib to a ledge and tree belay.

1. 18m 14 Climb the face of the grey buttress described under 'Photographers Route'.

2. 25m 13 Walk along the base of the face for 25m to base of a diagonal crack in vertical wall. The crack slopes up to the right. Ascend the crack to a cave.

3. 9m 8 Traverse 9m left from the cave to a ledge and stance.

4. 15m 8 Climb directly up to top up steepish face with good holds.

The route takes the kloof-high fault line immediately upstream (some 5m) of 'Turkey Extra Ordinary'.

1. 26m 14 Stem up the open book to start. Move up the easier fault line above to just before top of the kloof. Climb the knobbled face at the left to finish. Take a comfortable belay stance at the top.

Notes:

1. Descend via the steep gully mentioned in 'Turkey Extra Ordinary'.

2. Rock quality is excellent

Climbs the obvious chimney to start and then the left leaning knobbly looking open book above. Starts some 10m upstream of 'Walk on the Wild Side'.

1. 26m 14 Climb the body-wide chimney to reach the open book above. Climb this to reach the stance with large tree. Finish here and scramble off or continue up line to the top. Take a comfortable stance.

Notes:

1. Descend via the steep gully immediately downstream of 'Walk on the Wild Side'.

2. Rock quality is excellent

The climb is 50m downstream of the Cederberg/Tonquani junction and 15m downstream of Hotplate. A large (9x9m) square free-standing buttress, mentioned in pitch 2, can be seen from the kloof floor. Scramble up a gully, about 20m left of square free-standing buttress, for 10m and walk right along ledge to a corner.

1. [13] 28m

   Start in corner and climb up. Continue right and up on sloping rock at top of pitch to a corner.

2. [14] 30m

   Climb in corner and on upstream face of free standing buttress. At the top of the buttress, step across to the left onto face and climb face to a very large ledge.

3. [14] 30m

   From the ledge a short (9m) 90° open book with a small shrub at the bottom is visible at the top of the rock face. Start in corner between face and a free-standing rock pillar on the right. Continue up to shrub and climb the open book at the top.

"A chickenshit mass ascent"

No description!

This climb starts 2m right of 'Mercers Layback' .

1. 20m 14 Climb diagonally right upwards. Move right into the break and follow this to the top.

Note:

This climb shares the top part of 'Trivial Pursuit' .

Near the upper meeting place, left of 'Mercers Layback' the descent gully is formed by the main side of the kloof, and a broken buttress. Start on the stream-ward (down-hill) face of the buttress.

1. 15m 14 Take the left-most hand crack (i.e. just left of 'Gorillas in the Mist' ). On the ledge at half-height, move right, and ascend the narrowing off-width.

On the left side of the square-cut recess 5m left (uphill) of FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER. There is an oval "alien face" mark in the rock at waist level. 1. 15m 14 Climb a thin crack, with a small tree some 6m off the ground, leading to a thought-provoking but technically easy chimney. Stance as for FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER.

Start 30m left of SABER below series of large ledges.

1. 25m 8 Ascend ledges tending diagonally right to reach platform below arete, level with start of SABER crack. (This is the scramble used to reach DOGSTYLE) Move right around arete to reach recess and tree belay.

2. 15m 14 Follow obvious crack in corner at back of recess to top.

Immediately to the right of the buttress and nose which LATE START traverses, there is a face which leans back. Start in the corner where the buttress and face meet.

1. 30m 14 Climb up to a crack in a steep wall. Continue up to a small platform, step over to the left under an overhang. Either move further left and up a small defined recess or continue directly above the overhang in a shallow knobbly recess. (The latter offers far better technical climbing.)

A solid and pleasing route.

100m upstream of the pinnacle on which TWILIGHT CAPERS is situated is a buttress with two prominent overhangs at the top and a well defined crack in the face to the left of the upstream (triangular) overhang. At the base of the buttress is a well-defined crack that slopes off to the right.

1. 35m 14 Ascend the crack to a ledge after 17m then (bearing left) follow a recess to the top.

Note: The initial crack is well protected, fairly steep and sustained although it is straightforward.

Ascends the buttress that forms the left-hand wall of the HALCYON DAYS chimney. Start below the left-hand edge of the buttress.

1. 20m 14 Follow the left-hand edge and continue up the vertical crack system, on excellent rock.

To the left of the gully mentioned in SLIP SLIDING AWAY is a short downstream-facing steep grey crack-cum-corner, which leads to a disappointing scramble above. [Near pipe No 28 above the pipe ramp]

1. 18m 14 Start at an undercut recess with roots alongside. Climb the crack to the top. If climbed without the aid of the roots grade is 15.

15m right of the grade 6 gully of the start of PORCO DIO is a small grey amphitheatre. At the right of this amphitheatre is a small steep ramp in a downstream-facing recess. In front of the recess is a half-metre wide tree with a thick bough branching at one metre height. [11 pipe lengths up from the pipe ramp.]

1. 18m 14 Climb left of the small ramp, under and over a broad hanging flake, then straight up the fault to a wide ledge and tree slightly left.

2. 30m 14 Move 3m right and launch off blocks into the arête above. Bear slightly left directly up clean face, then climb subsidiary arête left of steep grassy gully.

Note: The initial moves off the ground may be technically 15.

Between the starts of PORCO DIO and CASE DISMISSED is a metre-square block. On the downstream-side of the block and slightly lower down there is a slender tall tree a metre from the grey faces. [10 pipe lengths up from pipe ramp]

1. 20m 14 Launch off from the block and climb the steep grey face on small holds making occasional use of the tree as a runner. (Using the tree for footholds lowers the grade!) Climb to a grassy ledge below a light brown arête.

2. 25m 10 Climb straight up the arête to the summit passing a wide ledge half-way up.

At the level of pipe number 4 (from pipe ramp) and left of PORCO DIO and INCOMMUNICADO is a grassy face.

1. 20m 7 Zig-zag up the grassy ledges using the line of least resistance to a tree in a corner at the base of two cracks.

2. 38m 14 Surmount the awkward bulge between the two cracks then straight up for 5m then climb the left-hand arête and slab to easier rock and the summit.

Note: Last pitch is 38m of pure jollity.

10 Pipe lengths above the first weir, is a prominent flat-fronted pinnacle of the true left. It is upstream of the dry waterfall. The climb ascends the flat face of this pinnacle.

1. 20m 14 Climb the upstream corner for 5m then move right onto the front face. Ascend the narrow crack up the middle of the face using good holds to either side of the crack. Continue up past a prominent horizontal crack on good holds to the summit of the pinnacle. (Belay in cracks on pinnacle face as blocks on top are loose.)

2. 15m 14 Descend the back of the pinnacle to the nek. Ascend the main face to a tree.

Note: A very enjoyable climb.

1. 30m 14 Just downstream of the JUNGLE ROCK buttress is a face. Climb the break and face to the top of the crag.

Climbs the island buttress which is at the base of the pipeline ramp, on its downstream side.

1. 15m 14 Climb the corner on the upstream side. Where the crack splits near the top, step to the right.

Starts in the gully between DEEP IN THE MOTHERLODE and QUARTET. Scramble up grade 6 rock for 5m until right inside the 1 ,5m wide chimney. [G - 30]

1. 28m 14 Climb the steep fault in the downstream wall of the chimney to reach a large tree alongside a broad platform. Continue up the same recess (now a quarter of the width) past a scruffy bush to the top.

Note: The name derives from the piles of rock at the foot of the recess.

Start about 9m up gully (which has a cave higher up) opposite EN PASSANT.

1. 15m 14 Start by climbing a narrow crack. Then follow open book which changes into crack again. Stance at big ledge. Walk 9m to right.

2. 11m 8 Ascend external corner. Alternatively, go right onto easier face veering into gully.

3. 9m 8 Traverse left onto edge. Move left around corner. Step up. Climb up edge or on slab in chimney to the left. Move into crack and then pull up to stance.

4. 15m 13 Left on sloping slab to edge. Then move up and left onto ledge. From here continue up an open book, or mantleshelf to left of open book. Then ascend steep narrow crack. Finish by passing up between large blocks.

Note: Pitch 1 may cause problems for shorter people. It is possible to "escape" to the right at the top of each pitch.

This climb is situated at the junction of Grootkloof and Kleinkloof, at the right hand side of Kleinkloof as you turn into Grootkloof a short wall is found which leads up to a steeper wall. Start the climb about 5m to the left of long thin ledge about 1.5m up leading left to a tree in a crack.

1. 30m 14 Climb the initial face using a handjam in a good sloping crack (difficult move off ground), continue up to wide grassy ledge. Move up face following break to small ledge. Move slightly right wards up an off-width crack, continue up a series of blocks to final wall. Climb up final short wall with a tree to the left.

Note: A pleasant climb ruined by ledge at third height.

Start round the corner from the STRAIGHT EDGE corner and about 3m upstream, directly below a prominent cleft in the buttress.

1. 16m 14 Climb the cleft via awkward mantleshelf-type move.

2. 16m 10 Continue easily to the top.

Start 5m downstream of SEARCH. An upstream facing corner starts 5m up, above the sloping ramp.

1. 25m 14 Start below the corner, and ascend 5m to reach sloping ramp. Climb corner system to top.

This route follows a shallow crack/recess which runs almost to the top of the cliffs, to the right of RUBBER SOUL.

1. 30m 10 Climb up to the tree 3m downstream of, and level with, the 'inverted V' of RUBBER SOUL. Follow the crack behind the tree to a ledge, and continue up a recess to a ledge on large blocks. (The grade of this pitch can be raised by avoiding the use of trees and roots).

2. 30m 14 Continue climbing up the now steeper recess, starting from the left hand end of the ledge. This leads to easier rock which is followed to the top.

Note: From the right hand end of the ledge at the top of the first pitch one can climb to the top over grade 8 rock.

The route commences at an overhung damp, grey face immediately below the summit.

1. 12m 11 Start on right and climb up to a dassie traverse below the overhangs, then traverse left round an awkward corner to a tree and good stance.

2. 18m 14 From the tree, traverse diagonally up to the right for 2m to the bottom of a steep recess. Climb the recess to a large tree.

3. 12m 7 Climb chimney to top of a large block.

4. 22m 10 Climb on upstream side of pinnacle to top.

Variation: (3 stars)

4a. 15m 13 From the point at which the pinnacle becomes free-standing, ascend middle of upstream face in slight chimney and move right into the gap beneath the huge top block of the pinnacle. Crawl to outside tip of pinnacle and pull-up spectacularly. Rope work is very tricky here. Continue easily to top.

Situated halfway down Middle Gully Left, the route takes the pronounced groove (cairn) 25m upstream of CHOCKSTONE FACE and follows the left-leaning openbook/ramp system to the top (wormhole visible from bottom).

1. 45m 14 Pad up the right extremity of the ramp next to the crack to the wormhole. Worm through this moving out leftwards under pressure. The face steepens here. Continue up open book to roof and straddle through this favouring right hand wall to clear. Move up ledge behind to gain groove with narrow overhanging crack system above. Straddle and jam up crack to comfortable belay stance at top.

Climb up the nose just right of the deep crack, stepping in from the left. Shared chains with Slope Launch

Start right of the obvious arete in the crack line. Follow the crack to the perma-draw anchors. 2nd pitch extension coming soon.

The route up the middle of the slab, left of Take off. Minimum 70m rope required. Climb the slab straight up, following the bolts to the chains.

The right hand route on the main slab. The chains of Take Off are also the abseil point. Please be careful of climbers below if abseiling in.

Start around the arête from VISIONS OF NUCLEAR DOOM below a roof 5m up. Stem the recess, move left through the break, and then climb the pleasant face above to chains.

In the middle of the crag is an obvious chimney, climb this for 30m to a stance below a medium sized tree at the top of the crag.