★★★ Holy Mackerel 17

Start 10m left of 'Cobblestone Face'

1. [12] 12m:

   Climb straight up through the broken-up face to a substantial ledge directly below a cave.

2. [14] 12m:

   Move 8m right, and continue to a restricted ledge partly composed of bollards. The route follows a deep, vertical crack leading into a cave-like recess under a triangular overhang. At this point move out right 1-2m in order to continue up the fault which now breaks through the triangular overhang.

3. [14] 16m:

   A little distance above, there is a shallow cave containing several large, jagged boulder formations. Climb the vertical fault running through this to a broad ledge. Alternatively, move to the left and then climb up for 3m before moving to the right to the same finish.

4. [14] 10m:

   In order to reach the platform on the free-standing pinnacle, which is a feature of this part of the mountain, climb the pleasant 4m face with small Cederberg-like grips. This pitch is adjacent to 'Avalanche Crag'.

5. [14] 10m:

   Cross the chasm between the free-standing pinnacle and the mountain, and climb the cleft on the right, i.e. the nearest one to 'Staircase' which leads to the top of the Cobblestones Gendarme.

6. [17] 12m:

   The pitch which is strenuous for 3m, runs straight up the face immediately above. Climb up and pull through the overlap, move left and up a shallow, vertical recess for 1-2m before moving right on flange-type grips for about 1m then continue up to the broad ledge above. 'Cobblestone Face' also finishes on this ledge.

7. Scramble to the summit

No bolting!