Aide

The Gaper Buttress

  • Contexte de la cotation : SA
  • Ascensions : 29
7

Saison

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Description

The obvious buttress down and right past the swimming pools at Elandskrans. Only a few routes but hosts one of the best 24's and 27's in Boven. When the campsite is busy, the top of this crag can be popular with gapers (tourists), hence the name.

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Waterval Boven

Climbing Permits Wonderland

The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including Mountain Club of South Africa , Mahem and Tranquilitas. The Mountain Club of South Africa has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit.

Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the Mountain Club of South Africa or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs:

Day permits R60. Day permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R30

Weekend permits R100. Weekend permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R50

Month permits R600. Month permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R300

Annual R1600. Annual for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R1 200

By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers.

Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Approche

As for the Restaurant except take the trail going steeply down just to the right before walking onto the top of the buttress.

Tags

Voies

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Cotation Voie

A hallowed classic. Starts up a small corner on the left of the buttress after a short scramble from the base. Can skip some of the bolts, especially at the start to reduce drag.

FA: Gary Lotter, 1991

WOW! A graceful sweep of technicality, possibly best 27 in Boven. Up the centre of the buttress starting from the base. Some extra bolts made it less sporty some years back.

FA: Richard Lord, 1991

Starts from a stance 8 meters up. Rap down to the first bolt. One of the harder excruciatingly technical climbs around. Was opened at 29.

FA: Richard Lord, 1991

Starts from the top of a pillar around the corner from the main Buttress. This can be accessed either by rapping or scrambling up from the right.

FA: Guy Holwill, 1992

2m right of 'Achtung Baby'.

FA: Ian Manson & Michael Cartwright, 1992

About 8m right of the 'Zoo Station' Pillar. Approach from the right and scramble up to belay at the first bolt.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

Belay at 'L'il Arete Number' first bolt. Climb the seam. Finish up right. Use 'L'il Arete Number' lower-offs.

FA: Clive Curson, 1993

Le saviez-vous ?

Saviez-vous que vous pouvez créer un compte pour enregistrer, suivre et partager vos ascensions ? Des milliers de grimpeurs le font déjà.

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Mar 30 Mai
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