Ascensions dans Clifton Sector

An exciting route

An amazing route, following a series of overhangs with some interesting crack climbing. I saw a mouse living inside one of the rails near the top, which gave me a big fright at first! I also learned the importance of tying a stopper knot on your chalk bag, after mine nearly fell off. This route was opened at grade 18, it feels tricky but fair for the grade. If you struggle to read the route and struggle to find rests or hang around figuring out the gear it would probably feel like a pumpy 19.

Beware the loose block after the crux.

climbed from Gendarme ledge.

Blew the onsight and fell at the crux. Did get the redpoint second go.

Trad Very cool pitch

Trad Best pitch i've done on Lion's Head. Did it on pre-placed gear (not a planned ascent) and technically not a flash as I checked out the moves on the lip while lowering down Pride Breaker.

#2go Trad Almost onsighted. A big loose block got in the way. Scariest moment as it went trundling down the mountain looking like it'll never stop.

Onsighted Pitch 1 and Pitch 2 on different days…both superb pitches so cant understand only 2 stars..pitch 2 has a fantastic climb up to an exposed traverse which then moves into a corner for a perfect finish up to a large belay ledge. Climbed with Mike Champion

Ended up doing this route twice as I got a cam stuck on pitch 2. Top of pitch 2 has two variations…direct which is harder and layback crack on the right which is amazing and easier imo. On second occation took Cameron up with me and Mike Champion. Was Cam’s first trad climb out

Climbed with Josh. Just climbed crux pitch. Got rope drag and had to split crux pitch into two with a mid level hanging belay. Guess it's good to practice building those.

Trad

Climbed Gendarme pitch with Emma. Did my trad course on this route in 2018. Amazing how chilled, relaxed and fun this felt today. Emma had to push but did a great job. Awesome 5 star climbing. Had seconded this before so marked as redpoint.

I found this hard, really complex lead and after the second roof the traverse was way harder than it looked. Very cool route. But high in the grade, maybe a 20.

Josh wanted to climb as was his first ever trad climb. Climbed on nuts and two cam as this is what he had back then. I climbed in approach shoes.

Second pitch. Felt much easier than expected, first lead with new partner. Was good to have him help with route finding and rope clipping suggestions. Felt like the two ropes makes sense to me now. First time climbing with Simon.

Seconded this and the climbing felt pretty easy for an 18. Chimney on trad lead would have felt exciting though. One to do in future

Climbed with J. Onsight lead pitch from tea cave. Really cool step up move, exciting and relaxed.

Climbed with J. Repeat of Aquanaut second pitch from yesterday. Felt much harder, guess I was tired on second day of trad. Didn't climb it so well and felt aware of climbing on pro in a way I didn't the day before. Interesting how that endurance changes your fear perception. Guess it's good to get very fit for trad. Bumped into Tristan doing a trad course with Anna, he seemed really happy to see a course student of his out leading. Had a nice catchup chat. Was cool, oddly I felt part of a trad community in a way I don't get with sport climbers. Sport climbers seem quite too themselves. Interesting to see differences.