Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Falaise | Qualité | Grimpeur | Date | |||
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25 | |||||||||
25 | ★★★ Mane Course | 25m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 3 Fév 2013 | ||||
Trad Best pitch i've done on Lion's Head. Did it on pre-placed gear (not a planned ascent) and technically not a flash as I checked out the moves on the lip while lowering down Pride Breaker.
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24 | |||||||||
24 | ★★ Pride Breaker | 25m | Lion's Head | Dim 3 Fév 2013 | |||||
#2go Trad Almost onsighted. A big loose block got in the way. Scariest moment as it went trundling down the mountain looking like it'll never stop.
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22 | |||||||||
22 | ★★ Simbarama | 30m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Mer 11 Fév 2015 | ||||
Yay, first 22 on trad! Great route too, committing moves thru & over the roof. Highly recommended.
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22 | ★★★ Excalibur | 38m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Dim 16 Jan 2022 | ||||
Blew the onsight and fell at the crux. Did get the redpoint second go.
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22 | ★★ Simbarama - avec Timothy Larsen | 30m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 27 Oct. 2022 | ||||
An exciting route
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21 | |||||||||
21 |
★★★ Simba Serendipity
1
15
25m
2
21
21m
3
15
18m
4
15
15m
5
17
20m
| 99m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Dim 2 Juin 2019 | ||||
21 | ★★ Night Puff | 30m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Mer 27 Fév 2013 | ||||
Yay first 21 on trad, so amped, did Touch and go last night too, all after work. Will be a great route for winter as access is quick. Great single pitch steep climbing on trad, highly worthwhile.
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21 | ★★★ Simba Serendipity | 99m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 3 Avr 2011 | ||||
Trad Very cool pitch
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21 | ★★★ Simba Serendipity - avec N. Abrahams | 99m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Dim 16 Jan 2022 | ||||
climbed from Gendarme ledge.
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21 | ★★ Newsflash Direct | 45m | Lion's Head | Dim 14 Mai 2023 | |||||
20 | |||||||||
20 | ★★ Cosmonaut (Cosmanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★ Cosmonaut - avec Justine Cole | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Dim 25 Fév 2018 | ||||
18 20 | ★★ Cosmonaut | 130m | Lion's Head | ★ Bon | Mer 28 Nov. 2012 | ||||
Just when u think u wanna head out and climb your first 20 on trad, turns out to be a 18, good fun climb, with good gear in nice exposed postitions.
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20 | ★★ Pride | 58m | Lion's Head | ★ Bon | Dim 2 Fév 2014 | ||||
Yay, took about a year to return, better footwork, knowledge of gear, endurance and strength, P2 is very excellent, albeit short.
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19 ~18 | ★★ Pride - avec Michelle Lopes | 40m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Dim 13 Août 2023 | ||||
Did pitch 2 and 3 of Pride, thinking I was getting on Clifton Crest. Super enjoyable.
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20 |
★★ Pride
- avec
BruceMD
2
20
10
3
15
30
| 40m | Lion's Head | Dim 13 Août 2023 | |||||
19 | |||||||||
18 19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse - avec Charles Bowker | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Dim 6 Avr 2014 | ||||
18 19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse - avec Justine Cole | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 8 Mai 2014 | ||||
19 |
★★ Astronaut
- avec
Justine Cole
1
17
10m
2
19
25m
| 35m | Lion's Head | Dim 25 Fév 2018 | |||||
18 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse
1
16
25m
2
18
40m
3
15
30m
4
15
25m
| 120m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Dim 2 Juin 2019 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse
1
16
20m
2
18
40m
3
19
35m
4
15
25m
| 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Sam 19 Oct. 2019 | ||||
19 | ★★ Astronaut | 35m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Sam 15 Oct. 2011 | ||||
My first 19 on Trad WooHoo, bomber gear, positive holds and feet, overhanging/ bold; Amazing quality, a must do on this peak!
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18 19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Dim 25 Oct. 2015 | ||||
Probably the best route on Lion's Head that goes straight to the top. P1 is amazing and P2 is one of the best at the grade. I would say P3 should be bumped to grade 16.
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18 19 | ★★ Lion's Share (Variation) | 63m | Lion's Head | ★ Bon | Jeu 3 Mars 2016 | ||||
Better than the standard route. I did not find the crux to be 19, I think because I am tall. Nice crack climbing.
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19 | ★★★ Codgernaut | 45m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Mar 10 Mai 2016 | ||||
Very good climbing. Both pitches are quite scary in places, but worth it. No OS on this as done P1 before as a 2nd.
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19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Dim 16 Jan 2022 | ||||
19 | ★★★ Fin Fiesta - avec Peter | 35m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Dim 16 Jan 2022 | ||||
19 | ★★ Astronaut | 35m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Dim 16 Jan 2022 | ||||
19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse - avec charles edelstein | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Lun 4 Avr 2022 | ||||
second. didnt do the last pitch (top pitch think its 15)
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19 | ★★★ Fin Fiesta - avec Josh Sowter | 35m | Lion's Head | Sam 7 Août 2021 | |||||
I found this hard, really complex lead and after the second roof the traverse was way harder than it looked. Very cool route. But high in the grade, maybe a 20.
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19 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse
- avec
Simon
1
16
20m
2
18
40m
3
19
35m
4
15
25m
| 120m | Lion's Head | Mar 19 Nov. 2019 | |||||
Seconded this and the climbing felt pretty easy for an 18. Chimney on trad lead would have felt exciting though. One to do in future
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19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse - avec rene Gould marc bromhall | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 10 Juin 2022 | ||||
19 | ★★★ Codgernaut | 45m | Lion's Head | Mar 27 Déc 2022 | |||||
19 ~18 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 12 Jan 2023 | ||||
An amazing route, following a series of overhangs with some interesting crack climbing. I saw a mouse living inside one of the rails near the top, which gave me a big fright at first! I also learned the importance of tying a stopper knot on your chalk bag, after mine nearly fell off. This route was opened at grade 18, it feels tricky but fair for the grade. If you struggle to read the route and struggle to find rests or hang around figuring out the gear it would probably feel like a pumpy 19.
Beware the loose block after the crux. |
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16 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse P1
1
16
20
| 20m | Lion's Head | Dim 19 Nov. 2023 | |||||
16 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse P1
1
16
20m
| 20m | Lion's Head | Sam 23 Déc 2023 | |||||
16 |
★★★ Beware the Dark Horse P1
1
16
20
First 16 on trad! | 20m | Lion's Head | Sam 23 Déc 2023 | |||||
19 | ★★ Relic News - avec Eyed0LL | 45m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Sam 2 Mars 2024 | ||||
Unique features make for good moves off the ground. Great cruxes that are committing in places. Also contrived in places as you can move around to get rests on other lines.
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19 Difficile | ★★★ Fin Fiesta — 2 essais - avec Aimée Chiat Hook | 35m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Sam 23 Mars 2024 | ||||
What a great route. I have been putting it off as it looks hard. I've climbed the line to the left which was hard, so I thought this would be too. It is challenging in quite a few places and does not let up till the end.
Has to rate as one of the best lines on Lion's Head. |
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19 | ★★★ Beware the Dark Horse | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Dim 21 Avr 2024 | ||||
18 | |||||||||
18 | ★★ Naught for Your Comfort | 140m | Lion's Head | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★★ Headline '33 Variation - avec M. Lamprecht | 45m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 11 Mars 2021 | ||||
I need to read RD's correctly. Was in a rush before sunset. Harder if you are short.
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18 | ★★ Naught for Your Comfort | 140m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Sam 5 Mai 2012 | ||||
P1- is good and good gear! P2 has a commiting crux with good pro; P3 is very high quality.
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18 | ★★ Greyscaling | 35m | Lion's Head | ★ Bon | Mar 18 Nov. 2014 | ||||
Great climbing if a little scary!
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18 | ★★★ Cat's Pyjamas (Cat's Pajamas) | 120m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Ven 19 Déc 2014 | ||||
One of the better long routes on Lion's Head. The crux pitch, P2 is really good. The balance of the pitches do not look inspiring but are all good. Esp P4 Another cool thing is u can climb P2-18 as a single pitch or link-up, and there is a rap point above, so if u are short on time, it makes an excellent pitch on it's own.
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18 | ★★ Kestrel Country Music-Variation | 93m | Lion's Head | ★ Bon | Dim 8 Mars 2015 | ||||
1-13; P2-14; P3-13; P4-12; P5-18 I did the variation as seemed a better line. Some good little sections that make you think. Seemed a little soft for 18, but I think my reach made it easier as the 2nd struggled!
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18 | ★★★ Cat's Pyjamas | 120m | Lion's Head | Sam 7 Août 2021 | |||||
Climbed with Josh. Just climbed crux pitch. Got rope drag and had to split crux pitch into two with a mid level hanging belay. Guess it's good to practice building those.
Trad |
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18 Difficile | ★★ Headline '33 Variation - avec Cormac Tooze | 45m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Dim 4 Fév 2024 | ||||
Lekker Route, would be cool to do it again.
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18 | ★★ Rainbow Strate - avec Eyed0LL | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Sam 2 Mars 2024 | |||||
P1 is really good climbing, but you can shift around onto the other routes to get good rests, so in this sense it is a little contrived. The crux has really nice moves and is committing.
P2 was quite testy is places, also good quality of climbing.
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17 | |||||||||
17 | ★★ Wild Things Run Free | 140m | Lion's Head | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
16 |
★★ Wild Things Run Free
1
17
2
16
3
16
4
15
5
15
| 140m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Ven 22 Jan 2021 | ||||
17 | ★ Fighting for a Share - avec M. Lamprecht | Lion's Head | Dans la moyenne | Mer 24 Mars 2021 | |||||
Opening new lines where other RD's are not detailed, hmmmmm!
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18 17 | ★★ Wham Bam | 140m | Lion's Head | ★ Bon | Sam 28 Mars 2015 | ||||
P3 has a great crux. Most of the pitches are under-graded, so beware. Pitches above P3 are crap!
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17 | ★★ My Naut is better than your Naut | 35m | Lion's Head | ★ Bon | Lun 15 Fév 2016 | ||||
Pretty fun if not a little contrived. Rock looked a little dodge in one place but otherwise good. Thought the grading was soft, deffo not SA-18
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17 | ★★★ Black and Weight | 35m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Mar 15 Mars 2016 | ||||
Suprisingly good climbing.
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17 | ★★ Wild Things Run Free | 140m | Lion's Head | ★ Bon | Dim 11 Sept 2016 | ||||
P1-3 are very good. P4-5 are crap. Worthwhile doing the first 3.
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17 |
★★ Wild Things Run Free P1
- avec
Dalene van Staden
1
17
25m
| 25m | Lion's Head | Mer 27 Mars 2024 | |||||
16 | |||||||||
18 16 | ★★ Juggernaut (Jugurnaught) | 110m | Lion's Head | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
16 | ★★ Dreadnaught | 110m | Lion's Head | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
16 | ★★ Juggernaut (Juggernaught) - avec Justine Cole | 110m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Dim 29 Juin 2014 | ||||
16 | ★★ Dreadnaught - avec Justine Cole | 110m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Dim 8 Juin 2014 | ||||
16 |
★★ Juggernaut
1
14
25m
2
16
25m
3
14
8m
4
14
18m
5
15
30m
| 110m | Lion's Head | Sam 1 Juin 2019 | |||||
16 | ★★ Juggernaut | 110m | Lion's Head | ★ Bon | Sam 8 Fév 2020 | ||||
16 | ★★ Juggernaut - avec Donovan | 110m | Lion's Head | Sam 12 Déc 2020 | |||||
16 |
★★ Cub's Cuff
- avec
Donovan
1
13
18m
2
15
15m
3
14
20m
4
16
20m
5
13
| 73m | Lion's Head | Sam 13 Fév 2021 | |||||
16 | ★★ Lion's Share | 63m | Lion's Head | ★ Bon | Sam 23 Jan 2016 | ||||
Good climbing, climbs better than it looks.
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16 | ★★ Juggernaut | 110m | Lion's Head | ★ Bon | Mer 16 Jan 2013 | ||||
Nice route for beginners.
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16 | ★★ Dreadnaught | 110m | Lion's Head | ★ Bon | Dim 11 Jan 2015 | ||||
P1-climbs a little awkward, but still nice and challenging, P2-just scrambling, P3- Is really good. P4 is average and short. If you get to this point, I would suggest heading for the rap anchors on the left. The remaining pitches take you right to the top but are average and vegetated.
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15 16 | ★★ Cub's Cuff | 73m | Lion's Head | ★ Bon | Jeu 18 Fév 2016 | ||||
P1 is rather disapointing, but the rest of the route is pretty good.
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16 | ★ Naughty But Nice | 72m | Lion's Head | Pourrie | Mer 24 Fév 2016 | ||||
Terrible route on bad rock=dangerous. Also top-out is shitty. Can't believe people open this stuff!
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17 16 | ★★★ Lame Lion | 110m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Mer 2 Mars 2016 | ||||
Has been upgraded in the new book 16-->17, which is apt. Very good climbing all round with excellent cruxes.
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16 | ★★ Lion's Share | 65m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Sam 5 Juin 2021 | ||||
16 | ★★ Juggernaut - avec mike owen | 110m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Ven 10 Juin 2022 | ||||
16 | ★★ Juggernaut | 110m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 6 Avr 2023 | ||||
Onsighted Pitch 1 and Pitch 2 on different days…both superb pitches so cant understand only 2 stars..pitch 2 has a fantastic climb up to an exposed traverse which then moves into a corner for a perfect finish up to a large belay ledge. Climbed with Mike Champion
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16 |
★★ Juggernaut P2
- avec
Dalene van Staden
2
16
25m
| 25m | Lion's Head | Mer 27 Mars 2024 | |||||
15 | |||||||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
18 15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 18 Jan 2009 | ||||
6 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest (Clifton Crack) | 200m | Lion's Head | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | 2003 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Sam 5 Mai 2007 | ||||
16 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | Sam 5 Mai 2007 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut | 130m | Lion's Head | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
18 15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | Mar 13 Avr 2010 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | 2002 | ||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest (Taking Down the Lion) - avec Onsight | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Dim 22 Sept 2013 | ||||
Hard to find but Amazing climbing
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15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | Mar 8 Oct. 2013 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 2 Nov. 2013 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Mar 12 Nov. 2013 | ||||
18 15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★ Excellent | Sam 9 Nov. 2013 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Mar 21 Jan 2014 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Mar 21 Jan 2014 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Mer 12 Fév 2014 | ||||
16 15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Mer 5 Fév 2014 | ||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut (Aquanaught) | 130m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 14 Nov. 2013 | ||||
15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest | 200m | Lion's Head | Ven 24 Jan 2014 | |||||
15 |
★★★ Clifton Crest
1
11
12m
2
14
35m
3
15
10m
5
15
36m
6
13
20m
7
14
20m
8
8
40m
| 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Ven 7 Juin 2019 | ||||
17 | ★★★ Clifton Crest - avec Eyed0LL | 180m | Lion's Head | Dim 10 Nov. 2019 | |||||
15 | ★★★ Aquanaut - avec Eyed0LL | 130m | Lion's Head | Dim 10 Nov. 2019 | |||||
Only the first pitch
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15 | ★★★ Clifton Crest - avec Donovcan | 200m | Lion's Head | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 19 Déc 2019 |