Voies dans Western Cape

Climb from low on the right up diagonally left through the obvious line. Eliminating the good rail on the left and the arete

Compress till able to access the left arete to topout.

P1. 15m 16; P2. 35m 18; P3. 25m 19

1. [16] 15m

   ???

2. [18] 35m

   ???

3. [19] 25m

   ???

1. [21] 25m

   ???

2. [21] 25m

   ???

1. [17] 20m

   ???

2. [17] 25m

   ???

1. [18] XXm

   ???

2. [19] XXm

   ???

P1. 20m 24: At the very top of Metal Haven it steepens into a chimney on the right. On the right wall are two crack lines. Symphony of Sickness takes the right hand one, which splits a smooth white face at the top.

Follow the discontinued crack, takes good gear.

P1. 25m 23?

Harder variation to 'Nitro'. Splits right at 7th bolt.

Shares first bolt with 'Enter Sandman' and then goes right. End in laybacks on the right.

On the path side look for the shroud/cap (flake)

Start just directly below the left side of the cap on good foot edges. Balance to reach the cap/ flake, then use the hole/ side pull on the flake to topout.

4B+-->5A, was discussed, we can't tell.

On the opposite side of 'The Badger' is a feature that looks like a coffee bean.

Standing start, climb just right of the coffee bean using it as a side pull to topout.

Right of 'Hot Air Buffoon' is a water runnel, climb this to topout.

Just left of the path is a shell shaped boulder with a low overhang/ cave. On the left is a small wedged rectangular block. Climb the slab (without using the block on the left) using the single feature on the face to top-out.

Start 1m right of the passage way on a flat block/ platform. Standing start, climb positive holds up the slab.

A few meters right of 'Walking on Air' are 2 thick edged flakes at ground level. Start just right of the left ground flake.

Climb a bulge on small holds to top out.

I'm finding grading granite slab difficult, so please give honest grading. For this one I suspect 4C to 5A.

On the west (downstream facing) side of the crag, is an enticing crack system with good gear placements and positive holds. Follow the crack, then break out left near the top to avoid some suspect blocks.

Obvious steep vertical crack.

Left of 'Dragon's Tooth' is a right tending broken crack. Bum start with left hand in crack and a really positve undercling for the right hand. Climb to top out.

Climb the stacked blocks/ rib on the left.

This is the down climb on the opposite side.

Approach: When reaching Vingerkop from the viewpoint at the neck, keep walking aroung the buttress counter clockwise for about 50m.

Aspect: Pleasant climbing following an obvious natural line. Enjoy the morning shade when the rest of the valley is blasted by the sun.

1. A couple meters right of an orange pillar is a crack and a shallow recess. Climb the recess moving slightly left until you are able to step left directly into the crack. Pull through a small roof and continue moving up past some musical flakes to a stance on a narrow ledge just above them.

2. Traverse right for a few meters until it's possible to move up through the right side of the roof. Pull up at the obvious break using the large layback flake and follow it until the terrain eases. Scramble directly up to a large ledge.

3. Facing the same direction you topped out the previous pitch on, walk straight 10m on the right side of some large blocks until you find a crack directly in front of you. You will be in an alley with a huge chockstone above and left of you. Climb the hand crack until it peters out, then move slighly up left to a ledge using good but lichenous cap jugs.

Descent: A roped scramble down the gully to the your immediate left brings you back to the previous level, but on the other side of the huge chockstone (abseiling would be preferable). From there, look for the obvious thicket of tree trunks to abseil from, or a large block another level down from the trees. Abseil all the way to the ground (60m ropes).

1. Climb the corner to a roof (as for Wakeling-Bird). Traverse left for a few meters until able to exit left into the break at the base of the crack using creative moves. Move up 2m to a stance.

2. Climb the crack strenuously until reaching a blank offwidth section after about 15m. Step left and climb a short face to a small ledge (may be better to stance here). Step right back into the crack and climb it for 3m until it fades, reaching a small alcove.

3. Move diagonally up and right towards the tree. Climb up past the tree using some pockets, until reaching easier ground. Traverse right under the roof until standing directly above the anchors of Big Fish (they are on an obvious ledge below you at this point).

Descent: roped scramble down to the anchors, first tending right, then back left. Abseil (35m). Alternatively, it may be more pleasant to extend this route and climb one more pitch up the diagonal crack to reach the abseil fig tree of Wakeling-Bird. It may also be possible to directly reach the anchors of Blue Train further right instead of scrambling down.

Start on the West side. Bum start below where the pink meets the grey rock. Left hand on jug or coarse side pull, straight up to top out.

Start on the East side. Start on double buckets (large flakes) and climb up.

Start on the beach side. Bum start, climb the right tending crack.

Start with your back to 'Blue Shadow'. There is a large flake at the base, this was not used.

Climb the vague recess up the slab.

Start on the north side of the fat boulder.

Standing start right of 'Alpen Muesli' on easier holds. Climb tending left on easy holds.

Sit start to the right of Excessive Swearing with both hands in good underclings and climb up the boulder.

Shares the start with 'Breakfast in America'. Can be done in one long pitch, then lower off in two.

1. [19] 25m

2. [22] 15m

1. [16] 20m

   ???

2. [18] 20m

   ???

Climb midst of chaos but top out slightly right after dropping down

Climb war lord the finish on midst of chaos wimp

Alt sit start sequence, start is undercling but go left to crack and climb it using knee bar, finish on Battlefield 7A

First moves may be tricky for short people.

Starts on the first section of 'Dreamer' then move right on the headwall. 80 meter rope required (or 70/60 meter gets you to lower off-chains).

Can be done in 2 pitches (intended as one pitch though). 80 meter rope required (or 70/60 meter gets you to lower off-chains).

Climb up to the black veins and beyond.

On the left side is a flake 2.5 m up. Climb to this then top-out

Climb on the left side of the boulder, short problem.

Start right of the hand crack, using edges to gain a beige patch (feature), then top-out.

Start ±1.5 left of the hand crack, climb up to some dishes, join the hand crack then top-out.

I found a Puff adder skin at the base of the route.

Climb the right wing of the boulder to access the thin Arête, turn this to exit on the backside of the boulder.

I found a Puff adder skin at the base of the route.

Climb the right wing of the boulder to access the thin Arête. Climb the thin feature and traverse (front side) left to top out. Less scary than 'Snakeskin Shedding Shelter'

Shares chains with 'Come Out and Play'

Start on the south side. Standing start, hands in the rail then up the break to top-out.

Climb the middle of the boulder to the pocket

Climb left of the tree, directly up to a cleft at the top-out.

Start at the split corner, the right face being a setback slab. Climb the crack.

Climb the hand crack that splits into a 'Y'

Start as for Teaser and climb rails diagonally up and left to top out

Start as for Sneak Attack, then traverse left and climb Pale Male.

Follow right variation.Left is an open project

Sit start with both hands in the slot. Up to the obvious slot via two flared rails, then break left to a big edge on the corner before climbing diagonally up and right to top out.

From the grassy sleeping cave ascend to the huge descent gully to reach the huge chockstone obstruction. Traverse 40m out to the right to a left facing corner.

1. [15] 45m

   Climb up from the beacon for 3m then move right up the corner for 2m. Move right onto the white face with the big 'Kaapse' (Cape) jugs to a big ledge.

2. [19] 45m

   Walk 10m to the left to a cairn (and the world's softest belay). Climb up the obvious gnarled crack to the left of a left-facing recess. Halfway up the crack runs out. Then climb the grey slab on small holds; this looks blank from below but goes, continue to a ledge beneath a large roof.

3. [19] 25m

   Move to the right then up a crack to the top. Step around the corner and take a few steps to a wonderful platform below the overhang.

4. [19] 45m

   Climb up to the base of the roof then move left on rickety flakes to a break through the roof via an awkward notch. Once over the roof climb diagonally right to the edge of the buttress. Climb the slot for a few hard moves and continue up to a 2m wide stance (with teeny cairn)

5. [19] 45m

   Climb the crack to a jam crack then through an overlap and up a further series of cracks to the top.

6. [20] 25m

   (new final pitch) The route previously ended on the prominent walk-off ledge. A new pitch was added to finish at the summit. This pitch heads up the white face using the slightly overhanging recess with a razor sharp vertical flake. At the first overlap head up left and then with balancey moves head out left to the break in the big roof above. Tricky and serious.

This route is on the back of the Crazy Diamond Tower. Scramble up the gulley between the Crazy Diamond Tower and the Shine on Prow until you get to an obvious slab of rock. Traverse left into a break, then follow the crack system diagonally up and right to the top of the tower.

Climb Memories until the good pockets then break right on to a long crimp to finish as for Dominatrix.

The route is situated between 'Summer Glow' and 'Sundowners' Look for a clean roof crack at about halfway height, this turns into a layback crack. with the left face slightly set back.

Start at the base of a recessed triangular left facing corner with a step below. The corner fades into a vertical letterbox (0.75/ green Camalot) Pull the initial corner and climb directly to another corner with a slab to the overhang, move right when forced onto a pedestal. Move back left to access the layback crack. Climb this to establish below a face out left. Climb the break in the middle of the face to the vegetated ledge.

Climb one of the other routes 2nd pitches ('Cooker' or 'Simmer' will keep grade the similar) to finish above as this vegetated band has no exit.

Consensus grading needed: Cormac Tooze grades it 17/18, prob more 18 If I relate to the grades in area. I am tall which did help.

Stand start, left hand on a layback crimp, right hand on a grip just left of the arete. Climb directly to the top left corner of the face.

Start as for Virus. After the 2nd bolt clip brown set of bolts slightly to the right. Basically follows the same line as virus to the roof. Cruxy getting into the roof, followed by ergonomic flowing movement and grips to the lip of the roof with jugs to the top. Loads of options

Sit start and mantle over the rock.

Start with LH in a two-finger pocket and RH on a large rough ledge, climb straight up via rails to a pocket up left, and throw up right for a big pocket.

Stand start with LH on a slopey crimp and RH on a flat edge, LH to a sloper, RH to a big sidepull (not jug), LH to a big slopey ledge and climb slightly right to finish.

Stand start on a jug and top-out direct.

Stand start in a rail with RH on a crimp and LH jammed, LH to an edge.

Stand start on the arête and traverse left along the lip to the end. The sit-start is about the same grade.

Sit start on small grips and move up.

Sit start (next to a rock) in the blackened rail and move up to an edge for right hand.

Sit start on the arête and traverse up along the juggy lip.

Stand start and head up right toward the apex via a rail higher.

Sit start low in hueco underclings and throw left hand up to a sloper on the lip. A throw to the jug is easier.

Sit start on a ledge just right of the arête and traverse left around the boulder to top-out just past the third arête.

Sit start low in a good undercling and move up using pinches and underclings.

Climb the technical slab left of the black streak.

The face of face the storm. Stand start.

very contrived. It climbs The hole in the rock wall just before the cytokine boulder. The sides are eliminated and you top out up the slopey grove a bit left. The holds in the beginning area little sandy. The top out is crux.

The tall arete behind cytokine

Start by A-Z and climb strait out the roof on edges and underclings and over the sketchy drop off.

Start in rail jug and climb up leftish behind the wall behind you and end with a jump dyno. Very good

start exactly like violence in the mind of the viewer but go right and climb along the lip on some shallow pockets and flakes until a good left hard pocket into a hard right hard cross over on wierd top out ending almost on the end of the prow. Very long and the rock quality isn’t the best in places but it’s not as bad as it looks and I recommend it!

Takes the crack line up the grey slab to the R side of a narrow roof. Step back L over the roof & up to an abseil tree.

P1 – 16 - 55m Start ~3m R of Scoffin the Boffin. Head diagonally up & R to the overlap that runs across the whole face. Pull through & continue diagonally R into & arching feature that terminates in a crack that runs parallel to the slanted arête. Belay from block near edge of big ledge.

P2 -15 - 30m Walk to the face & follow cracks that tend up & L; to the R of a right facing corner with a wide crack. Follow more cracks over a slight bulge & then scramble up to the top of the crag. Descent: There is a tat rap point to the climbers L, & a second rap at the top of Scoffin the Boffin.

Start behind a trree and easily up to a finger crack that goes up & R all the way to a ledge. Descent: walk a ropes length to the L to the rap anchors above Quinn the Eskimo

Crimpy and sustained with a couple cruxes.