Ascensions dans Suède comme Working

Two tries, trying to get back to old high point. Things felt good, but high point didn't come with the injury. Crux starting to feel doable again, but rusty on the section right after it

Såå kul! Efter tre dagars klättring i området är jag dock ganska trött och har väldigt ömma fingrar. Tejp är ett måste.

Didn’t remember the beta for the start; is there any climber of normal body length who did this without standing on an extra stone?

Super great boulder problem, where the most difficult part lies on the top. The rest is okish and I could handle it since the attempt number 2.

Provade med Linda, på topprep. Hängde i typ alla bultar.

Put in the QDs first go. Second go I had to grab pretty much all of them Not like Sunday. But they need to be extended even more, and I need to make sure to tell belayers to give slack fast. I found new beta in the crux, to grab the pinch with the left hand to establish body higher up before going left. Felt good. It isn't clear what to do starting the part right before the crux, when you work up to the shouldery move. Still nervous about clipping bolt 2, and the one right before the slab section - what to grab with left hand?

Too wet and too tired so just was working first 5 bolts. Move to 5th bolt still not going well...

Stick clipped up to place draws. Managed to put QDs in 3&4 just like Monday. But the moves were harder before the crux. Managed crux move 5,th go but not linked to the part before it

Stick clipped up. Crux didn't go. Managed to put QD in on 3rd and 4th bolts both this time (without stick clip)

Got on this at the end. I have to remember the left crimp pinch to get up to the clip before the crux starts... Also that the first "serious" clip after the Orup start is clipped best from the biggest hold below, rather than continuing to bump the hand up

Worked the first 5 bolts. First 4 I did in isolation but each move went first go, just have to get clip spots. Then I spent a long time trying to get to the 5th. I think I figured it out going left into the direkt insteg near that bolt, and some kind of drop knee to match on the clip hold and bump or cross to the crimp. But now I'm very uncertain how to clip the one above it, and get through the crux. That's going to take work and feels demotivating. It seemed impossible :S

Worked first 4 bolts again. Got the moves a bit more solid, they make more sense... Not where to clip though yet

Led first 4 bolts hang dogging up. Worked on moves and clipping positions. Intense even there but feels more doable than Siddharta. Throws in precise core tension moves. Very "on" immediately compared to e.g. Bad Boys or Vinna eller försvinna, better jugs and holds than Siddharta, more intuitive

warmed up on first few bolts. Start felt much better. Put 3rd QD in dynamically. moves right before crux went, crux went first go. Went well

Nice moves on slopey crimps. last crimp for the left hand is too hard for the grade. but everything is super extra hard in kjuge.

I tried this twice today. It feels much harder than vinna eller försvinna or bad boys, the first 7 bolts only have like 2 possible clips... After bolt 8 it feels much easier and fun, although I couldn't go to the top, spinning bolt. Not sure I want to project this. It seems almost impossible. Maybe it's just the heat?

Started this as a project, got on it one time for fun, figured out the first overhang a bit better, then stick clipped the first crux bit to work it. Still need to do the rest of the crux up to the anchors. 7c+ in guidebook and on other sites

Put two attempts into it. Got the Beta in pretty well already. Feels very feasible to send in a next session

Just gave it a try. Did not top out thought. Interesting and nice climb thought. Could be a nice project.

Worked the route 3 goes. Coming closer to figure out a suitable beta. Seems doable, but will still need some effort