Affichant les 97 ascensions total.
Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
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Jeu 23 Mai 2024 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ||||||
I am not doing as well as I did last Fall or in years before, kind of embarassing.. Maybe not ideal conditions, my beta at the 3rd bolt feels wrong for clipping, and I can't find a rest after the intense start on the left anymore. The dynamic dead point crux after bolt 5 was going great on top rope last week but with the 5th bolt clipped I get pulled to the left and need to use my left foot where I thought the right should go. Intermediate crimp feels bad in humid weather but I need to pull up more on it.
At the top: after clipping low on the 30mm edge, get pinch and bring feet up, get a left hold and there are 2 ok for a few seconds holds above the anchor.
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Dim 27 Août 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6a | Buffy | Dans la moyenne | |||||
Sam 15 Juil 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Miraculix | ★ Bon | |||||
6b+ Facile | ★★ Brown Sugar | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Sam 3 Juin 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ★★ Excellent | |||||
7b Facile | ★★ Freaky Deaky — 2 essais | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Dim 14 Mai 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Ignition — 3 essais | ||||||
eat up to final crux, cruise and solve!
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Sam 13 Mai 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7b Facile | ★★ Freaky Deaky — 3 essais | ★★ Excellent | |||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra — 2 essais | ||||||
7b | ★★ Freaky Deaky | ||||||
Dim 7 Mai 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c ~6b+ | Krucifix | Dans la moyenne | |||||
7b Facile | ★★ Freaky Deaky | ★★ Excellent | |||||
7b | ★★★ Direct Freaky — 5 essais | ||||||
Dim 30 Avr 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7b Difficile | ★★ Freaky Deaky — 2 essais | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Sam 22 Avr 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★ Obelix | ★ Bon | |||||
7b Facile | ★★ Freaky Deaky | ★ Bon | |||||
6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Dim 2 Avr 2023 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a Difficile | ★★ Partaj | ||||||
Well when I looked at the tick list, only tall climbers had ticked it... Maybe a reason? The second bolt seems easy enough to clip, but the sequence to the left is a bit mind-boggling, and the sequence higher up seems impossibly reachy for the grade (I am 171 cm, +1). Only one old rusted quick link sits at the top for an anchor. Tried with clip stick and then on top rope (with a QD),
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7a | ★ Auktion Direkt | ★ Bon | |||||
start was quite slippery especially with ice, grips did not feel remotely possible there. Further up, where sun hits the wall, it was more doable. Anchors were not visible but exist. Not sure I would try again due to fall potential, but some moves were nice, especially the sequence further up
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6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Dim 25 Sept 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6b+ ~6c | ★★ Brown Sugar — 3 essais | ★★★ Classique | |||||
took me more than a few tries, and I was in decent shape having gotten Panta Rei a few weeks before. feels a bit heavier than some 6b+ unless you're much taller. committing for the grade. Tried this over several years once a year or so
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Dim 14 Août 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Direct Freaky | ★★★ Classique | |||||
First RP attempt today and fell literally at the anchor because I messed up the feet haha. Make sure you memorise the final moves!
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6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Climbed after worming and sending Tabu so was a bit pumped and misread crux sequence. Crux is such very good when you know the sequence.
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7b | ★★★ Direct Freaky | ★★★ Classique | |||||
It went! Despite the heat and lack of finger skin. Crimped hard and just went for it. Second proper attempt this session (after falling at the anchor on first attempt!) so five or six goes overall. Pretty chuffed with that. Top route with great crimps. My fourth or fifth 7b!
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6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Always a great route and finger warm up. Climbed direct up the crack instead of weaving out to the left easier variation.
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6a+ | ★ Miraculix | ★ Bon | |||||
Nice little bicep warm up
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Dim 31 Juil 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Partaj - avec Shaun Hurrell | ||||||
Scared to do the third clip but did crux first go
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7a | ★★ Partaj - avec Shaun Hurrell | ||||||
Fucked up 3rd clip.. Nice sequence. Will have to come back
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7a+ | ★ Diggelo - avec Shaun Hurrell | ||||||
Fell on the final jug on my onsight attempt.. then took 4 more tries as short, bouldery route but fun!
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6a+ | ★ Miraculix - avec Shaun Hurrell | ||||||
7a | ★ Obelix - avec Shaun Hurrell | ||||||
2nd go. Fell at last move on the onsight
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7a | ★★ Partaj | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Second go. Very nice crux sequence.
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7a+ | ★ Diggelo | ★ Bon | |||||
Very beta specific but fun route despite the length! 6th go over 2 sessions (first a long time ago).
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7a | ★ Obelix | ★ Bon | |||||
2nd go
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Dim 12 Juin 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ★★ Excellent | |||||
6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ★★ Excellent | |||||
6a+ | ★ Miraculix | ★ Bon | |||||
Sam 21 Mai 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7b+ 7b | ★★ Freaky Deaky | ||||||
harder than Direct Freaky, key feet at start now missing
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7b | ★★★ Direct Freaky | ||||||
Sketchy third clip, bolt positioning not the smartest but a genius line
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7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ||||||
Pumpy. Easy for the grade but needs endurance for the last clip or enjoy the flight!
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Mar 17 Mai 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ||||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ||||||
Second go. Pumpy for 6c+!
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6c | ★ Nacka Kvarn | ||||||
Dim 15 Mai 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a+ | ★ Diggelo | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Jeu 12 Mai 2022 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Was pumped after working on Freaky Deaky Direkt so was pleased to get this on the second go after working out the crux beta
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Mar 26 Oct. 2021 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ||||||
Mer 29 Sept 2021 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c | ★★ Brown Sugar | ||||||
7a+ | My fair lady | ||||||
7a+ | Buffy direkt (Buffy direct) | ||||||
6c | Flap | ||||||
3 | Jag ber om ursäkt och tar tillbaka min FA | ||||||
Dim 13 Juin 2021 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6a+ 6a | Buffy | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ||||||
Sam 29 Mai 2021 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Ven 2 Oct. 2020 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6a | Buffy | ||||||
6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ★ Bon | |||||
Dim 26 Avr 2020 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★ Auktion Direkt | ★ Bon | |||||
Sumpade onsighten på sista skicket, lite snopet. Gick stabilt på andra. Riktigt cool linje som jag lyckats missa under alla dessa år.
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7a+ | ★ Diggelo (Diggilo) | ★ Bon | |||||
Långt ifrån onsight. Lätt på andra. Kort o kul - roligt att hitta nytt (för mig) på Nacka Kvarn!
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Mer 25 Mars 2020 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
Nacka kvarn boulder | |||||||
6B | ★ Sträck på dig SDS | ★ Bon | |||||
6A | Sträck på dig stand | ||||||
6B+ | Sträck på dig äckel | ||||||
FA
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6B+ 6C | ★ Äcklet | ★ Bon | |||||
Mer 17 Avr 2019 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Miraculix | ||||||
Nice (pumpy for the grade) warm-up
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5b | Coach | ||||||
Ended up free solo downclimbing / faffing as no anchor haha
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6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Lovely pumpy crimpy route
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Dim 1 Mai 2016 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c | ★ Nacka Kvarn | ★ Bon | |||||
Bra led!
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Mer 19 Août 2015 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c+ | ★ Annika | ★ Bon | |||||
Fin och rätt oklättrad (?). Jag startade i Partaj och uteslöt det stora blocket/flaket helt och hållet. Då tyckte jag den höll 7a, trots att den gick ner på andra försöket. Väldigt skoj, tycker fler borde köra den!
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7a | ★★ Partaj | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Yes! Trodde jag var för klen för sista kruxet, men det gick med noggrann beta. Kort, men har så fina flytt att jag tycker den är den finaste på kvarnen för graden. Typ 4-5 pressen. Mkt nöjd!
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6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ||||||
Ganska fin, var på den nån gång förra året och då blev det bara konstigt. Nu satt den på första.
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Sam 27 Juin 2015 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Partaj | ★ Bon | |||||
Kul grej! 2nd go.
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Ven 12 Juin 2015 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Super freaky | ★★★ Classique | |||||
YES!! På det sjätte smäller det, tydligen. Väldigt fin led från start till mål. Löste mittsektionen med en ordentlig catch som satt som en smäck. Rekommenderas superstarkt!
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Dim 21 Sept 2014 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a+ 7b | ★★ Freaky Deaky | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Yes! Där satt den. Kanonfin och valgraderad led. Starten är väldigt beroende av bra stick, så undvik när det är för varmt.
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Lun 9 Juin 2014 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6a+ | ★ Miraculix | ★ Bon | |||||
6a+ | ★ Miraculix | ||||||
Jeu 22 Mai 2014 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Lun 5 Mai 2014 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Lutande Tornet | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Andra försöket. Jättefin led - finare än Totalvägra enligt mig.
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6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ||||||
Andra försöket. Kruxet kommer på slutet
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Lun 28 Avr 2014 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ★ Bon | |||||
Tredje dagen, sjätte försöket. Gött
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7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Väldig fint o teknisk. Gillar skarpt
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7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Sam 19 Avr 2014 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c | ★ Nacka Kvarn | ★ Bon | |||||
Kul och teknisk.
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6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ||||||
Kort o krimpig!
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Ven 13 Sept 2013 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ||||||
6c | ★ Nacka Kvarn | ||||||
Mer 12 Sept 2012 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ★★ Excellent | |||||
En av fem leder 2012. ÄNTLIGEN!!!!
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Jeu 6 Août 2009 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c+ | ★★ Hundra år av ensamhet | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Riktigt fin led.
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Mer 16 Juil 2008 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Partaj | ||||||
Mer 8 Août 2007 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ||||||
Repeat. En fin led helt klart
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Mar 7 Août 2007 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★★ Totalvägra | ||||||
Repitition av min första 7a.
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Sam 6 Mai 2006 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a | ★ Obelix | ||||||
Dim 30 Mai 2004 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ||||||
7a | ★ Auktion Direkt | ||||||
Dim 12 Août 2012 - Nacka Kvarn | |||||||
7a 6c+ | ★★ Ignition | ★★★ Classique | |||||
6c 6b+ | ★★ Brown Sugar | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Consistent, overhanging, short and heavy.
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Affichant les 97 ascensions total.