Ascensions dans Wallis contenant Bêta

The way up.

The way up.

The way up.

Echte Wackelpartie

OS, several cruxy sections

Just a training walk.

Extremely beautiful route in a wonderful environment. Very easy apart from one single athletic move in P5, which I could not decipher quickly enough and thus pulled on the quick draw...

Route has bolts, but sometimes very far apart. Well protectable with a small set of cams.

With an early start in the shadow, this route over-all felt quite a bit harder than its neighbour "Tajabone". There are a few tough-for-the-grade moves and difficulties are more sustained.

1. Short pitch along a crack. Felt harder than 5b.

2. Extremely cool V-corner, then left onto a slab, then a little boulder-problem.

3. Rather easy terrain and a crack.

4. Traverse left to a little boulder problem, then easy terrain up to the right.

5. Short athletic boulder problem.

6. Traverse right onto a flake and then solve the boulder problem to get into the crack that follows up to the next belay. This is the single hardest move on the route.

7. Fine slab, then old-school-chimney.

8. One single harder move (bolt).

Unfortunately we were mislead to use the new looking rappel anchors to the right of the route and ultimately the rope got stuck two times. It seems these belong to another route, though? Not sure...

It may be better to abseil along the route - even though the maillons are small and there are ample opportunities for the rope to get stuck too...

Amazing! Some pitches feel a bit harder than the official grades.

Route next to it is gone. First two pinches nice but some moss... approach bit uncomfortable with the ravine. Left after patch 2 due to thunder approaching. Well bolted we didn't need friends.

Friends schon gelegt beim topropen

Dalle... Les cotations peuvent surprendre.

EPIC day! The climb is highly recommended, but it stops short of the unnamed summit and a long, exposed scramble is waiting for you after.

The climb is a lot of standing on small holds, but the rock is phenomenal, and there are some mindblowing pitches. The 6a pitch is a dihedral like in a gym: A small crack, big holds, OK feet where you need them. Amazing!

Reaching the summit, you shorten your rope and then start to wrestle your way up and down a looooong ridge until you get to the abseil anchor at Wiwannijoch, tagging Wiwannihorn (3001 m) on the way. Took us 2.5 h from last climbing anchor to rap anchor, and the scrambling is right near the limit of where I would start to pitch it out… spooky and tiring!

It was surprisingly crowded on Staturday morning by 5-6 groups. There were at least 4 other groups on the other more difficult routes around Bravo Lapp. The view is fantastic.

Schöne Route, stabiler Fels, ziemlich homogen, schöne Kletterzüge.

Une des plus belles GV à mon actif, ascension en second sur la plupart des longueurs. En tête sur deux longueurs (je ne saurais plus dire lesquelles). En tout cas le parcours est varié en types de grimpes et aspect de la roche, un merveilleux moment. Les relais sont confortables et souvent à l'ombre c'est très agréable.

8 pitches top out at 2900 m

First time on the Riffelhorn, not bad.

Amazing route, some exposed pitches with airy anchors. Good bolting, highly recommended

Schön gemusterte Platten. Grösstenteils hands-free geklettert.

Coole kurze Mehrseillänge. Die Flechten erhöhen die Schwierigkeit ein bisschen.

Coole technische Route

Chli e murx und zimlech e Chopfsach

Der Start der zweiten Seillänge ist ziemlich schwierig

6.SL: 3 Haken A0 (Granit, ansonsten Kalk) 5b, 3 p.a. (5b obl.)

Very overhanging route, dirty holds, much harder than I expected. Great bolting.

Flows nicely.

#zuerich-WE-2014 bouldary

Sturz in schlüsselstelle

The crux is the start

polished hard start

Short tricky sequence near the top.

Cooles Schuppenhangeln; m.E. die schönste der leichteren Routen hier.

Bei den ersten Zügen immer wieder auf den schmierigen Tritten abgerutscht.

jugs and one reachy move

tricky start.

OS, strange rock

balancy, flash

Beautiful crack

OS, 2 roofs and a crimpy headwall

Athletic crack

Nothing too tough.