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Ascent of Dorées les balades

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Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Fri 22nd Jul 2022 - Pays du St-Bernard
Aiguilles Dorées Promontoire S de l'aiguille sans nom
6a Dorées les balades - with Mi
1 5b 250m
2 6a
3 5b
4 5c
5 6a
6 6a
7 6a
8 6a
Mixed trad 250m, 20 Mega Classic
mike
With an early start in the shadow, this route over-all felt quite a bit harder than its neighbour "Tajabone". There are a few tough-for-the-grade moves and difficulties are more sustained.

  1. Short pitch along a crack. Felt harder than 5b.

  2. Extremely cool V-corner, then left onto a slab, then a little boulder-problem.

  3. Rather easy terrain and a crack.

  4. Traverse left to a little boulder problem, then easy terrain up to the right.

  5. Short athletic boulder problem.

  6. Traverse right onto a flake and then solve the boulder problem to get into the crack that follows up to the next belay. This is the single hardest move on the route.

  7. Fine slab, then old-school-chimney.

  8. One single harder move (bolt).

Unfortunately we were mislead to use the new looking rappel anchors to the right of the route and ultimately the rope got stuck two times. It seems these belong to another route, though? Not sure...

It may be better to abseil along the route - even though the maillons are small and there are ample opportunities for the rope to get stuck too...

 

Showing all 1 ascent.

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