★★ Joob Joob 6b

Joob Joob is a fantastic moderate 6b adventure above the sea. Pronounced “joop joop” with lips pursed tight as if to give a kiss, it literally translates to “kiss kiss”.

Highlights of the climb include fun stalactite stemming, comfortable belay ledges, and an overhung hero tufa at the very top. Nearly every single piece of protection is a titanium bolt, except for only a few slung tufas (bomber provided the sling is in good shape).

Pitch 1 is basically an upgraded and extended version of an old single pitch called, 'Ao Nang! Ao Nang!'. It was cleaned up and rebolted with proper equipment to reach the awesome climbing on P2 and P3. There are still some remnant steel bolts that should be avoided. Always use the U style bolts that have red glue.

1. 6a, 32m, 12 bolts, 2 slings. Follow mostly easy terrain straight up and slightly right over rock of varying quality. Belay at a cozy ledge next to a massive black stalactite.

2. 6a+, 18m, 5 bolts, 1 sling. Either launch straight up from the anchor (reachy) or climb around right and step back left (easier). Then follow great stalactite stemming up the chute. Belay at another ledge near a hanging column.

3. 6b, 34m, 15 bolts, 3 slings. This is where the goods get great! Easily climb the hanging columns like a spiral staircase. Then, tackle multiple small cruxes before and after good rests on beautiful orange rock. The final overhung tufa to the anchor is the cherry on top of this stellar pitch. Once you reach the anchor, it’s best to have your partner lower you back down to the ledge and belay them from there.

Required:

18 draws and 70m rope.

Descent:

Lower one another back to the P2 ledge. Then two raps put you back onto the ledge above the water. Bonus points for keeping your rope out of the sea by clipping a stand into the leaver carabiner on P1.

Some areas on the mainland are sensitive with respect to access as it is on private land, please behave accordingly!