Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||
5 | ★ Tarzan
Tree climb, old access to 'Humanality'. Équip.: Sam Lightner, Gerd, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1993 | 30m | |||
8a | ★★★ Eviction
1
7c+
30m
2
8a
22m
All titanium bolts (P1: 12 bolts, P2: 7 bolts). Équip.: Alex Catlin, 1994 Équip.: Björn Sieber, 2011 | 52m, 2, 19 | |||
7c+ | Eviction (Variation)
1
7c+
30m
2
7b
26m
Splits to the left about halfway up P1. All titanium bolts (P1: 9 bolts, P2: 7 bolts). Équip.: Tim Schmitt, 2011 | 56m, 2, 16 | |||
7c | Bird's Nest Drop
Access by the first pitch of 'Humanality'. Then left of P2. Not rebolted with titanium, old stainless steel glue-in bolts. Équip.: Greg Collum, 1994 | 20m, 6 | |||
6b+ | ★★★ Humanality
1
5
15m
2
6b
10m
3
6a+
20m
4
6b
22m
5
6b+
25m
6
6b
10m
7
6a
10m
Could be 5, 6 or 7 piches, depending how you see the climb.
Three raps with a 60m rope on separate abseil anchors from the top of pitch 5. If you have a 70m rope, you can rap straight from the top of pitch 6 to the next set of anchors. Équip.: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995 Équip.: Shamick Byszewski, 1996 | 110m, 7, 45 | |||
6b | ★ Human Frality
1
6a+
20m
2
6a+
22m
3
6b
20m
4
6b
30m
Trad climb, which was used to open 'Humanality'. Équip.: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1995 | 92m, 4 | |||
Open Project
Unfinished project on the short wall below P1 of 'Humanality'. About 8a or higher. Now behind the small shack right of the Freedom Bar. Équip.: Ola Brahammar | |||||
7c | Planet Ton Sai
On the short wall below P1 of 'Humanality', now covered by the small shack right of the Freedom Bar. Équip.: Emil Karlsson & Adriaan Labout, 2007 | 4 | |||
6b | ★★ I No Speak England
Starts at the platform of the Freedom Bar. Crux is right at the start. 5 stainless steel glue-in bolts, 6 slings. Équip.: Han, 2006 | 25m, 11 | |||
6b | ★★ Cowabungalow
The leftmost line on the terrace right of 'Humanality'. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Will Hair, 1994 | 25m, 7 | |||
6c+ | ★ Super Liam
Shares the start with 'Cowabungalow', then right towards the small cave. Be careful with loose rock in the upper part. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Équip.: Ghop & The RockShop, 2016 | 28m, 7 | |||
7a | ★★ Sweating Mekong
Short crux about halfway. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Will Hair, 1994 | 20m, 7 | |||
6c | ★★ Viking in Heat
Head up the ladder then straight up the wall, which gets increasingly overhanging. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Équip.: Max Dufford & Greg Collum, 1992 | 20m, 7 | |||
7b | ★★ Ya Rup Rup
Squeezed just right of 'Viking in Heat'. In Wee's update. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Wee Changrua, 2006 | 22m, 7 | |||
6c | ★★ Hin Rong Hai
Do not skip the crux by going right towards the anchor -- only 6b then and risk of breaking the fragile tufas. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Max Dufford & Divinder Singh, 1992 | 22m, 7 | |||
7a | ★★ Big Guy Loosing the Cat
The leftmost line on the upper terrace. Shares anchors with 'Silkcat'. 3 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Équip.: Wee Changrua & Elke Schmitz, 2004 | 11m, 5 | |||
7a | ★ Silkcat
Shares the first two clips with 'Tom Yum' and anchors with 'Big Guy Loosing the Cat'. 2 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Équip.: Shamick Byszewski, 1997 | 11m, 4 | |||
7a | ★★ Tom Yum
Big moves on big holds. Getting polished, but still worth climbing. Shares the first two clips with 'Silkcat', then up right. 3 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Équip.: Larissa Collum & Greg Collum, 1992 | 10m, 4 | |||
7a+ | ★ Trade Winds
5 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Équip.: Alex Wenner & Mark Maffei, 1993 | 11m, 6 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Dry Net
All titanium bolts. Équip.: Ghop & The RockShop, 2013 | 15m, 5 | |||
6b+ | ★★ On the Terrace
Starts on the very right edge of the upper terrace. Start is a little hard to read. 5 titanium bolts, 4 slings. Équip.: Mark Maffei & Alex Wenner, 1992 | 20m, 11 | |||
6b | ★ For You & For Me
Crawling through the corner on the very left side of the roof. Careful, anchors not equipped with rings. Do not lower through the slings! 1 titanium bolts, 6 slings. Équip.: Dean Saydom, 1994 | 8m, 7 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Riesenbaby
Stiff start up to the cauliflower, then traverses right on the rails. Nice moves, though very polished. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1993 | 10m, 4 | |||
7c+ | ★★ Spanish Wreck
Shares anchors with 'Dragon Ball' and 'Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup'. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Carlos Bresco, 1997 | 15m, 6 | |||
8b+ | ★★ Dragon Ball
Very Dynamic climbing. Good fun! Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup'. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Hee Youn Kang, 2000 | 15m, 6 | |||
8a+ | ★★ Old Chicken Makes a Good Soup
Original grade 8a. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite. Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Dragon Ball'. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Équip.: Rolando Larcher, 1995 | 15m, 7 | |||
8a | ★★ Hang Ten
Original grade 7c. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite in 2006. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Tidal Wave. Équip.: Will Hair, 1994 | 9m, 5 | |||
7c | ★★★ Tidal Wave
Very popular and very polished, short and powerful with a tendency to spit you off with sloppy beta. Make sure your belayer is paying attention otherwise you could end up with a mouth full of sand. All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Hang Ten. Équip.: Greg Collum & Larissa Collum, 1992 | 10m, 5 | |||
7c | ★★ Baby Gorilla
Original grade 7b+. Upgraded due to a broken hold. Titanium bolts. Équip.: Will Hair, 1993 | 7m, 3 | |||
Sunrise West Way
Old route just right of 'Baby Gorilla'. Never climbed. Old stainless steel glue-in bolts. Équip.: Han, 2006 | 15m, 10 | ||||
Angle Couple
Old route just left of 'Tantrum'. Never climbed. Old stainless steel glue-in bolts. Équip.: Han, 2006 | 15m, 10 | ||||
8a+ | ★★★ Tantrum
The Tonsai beach classic! Get on it. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Alex Catlin, 1994 | 12m, 7 | |||
World Peace
Old route just left of 'Cafe Andaman'. Never climbed. Old stainless steel glue-in bolts. Équip.: Han, 2006 | 15m, 10 | ||||
7b | ★★ Café Andaman
Climbs straight up the obvious tufa, then traverses left. Finishes in the small cave next to the anchor. Top section can seep after rain. Titanium bolts. Équip.: Greg Collum & Trevor Massiah, 1994 | 10m, 4 | |||
7b | ★★ Ton Sai Love Story
Old route, sharing the start with 'Ton Sai Playboy', but going up into the left roof after the 3rd clip. Rusty expansion bolts, anchors seem to have been removed. Cannot be climbed anymore. Équip.: Han, 2006 | 15m, 7 | |||
7b | ★★★ Ton Sai Playboy
Very popular, easy start to pumpy roof climbing. Just keep moving all the way to the anchors! Very fun! Take the left line after the fourth bolt, or you end up in 'Playboy Connection'. Titanium bolts and slings. Holds broke recently making it a bit harder. Équip.: Han, 2006 | 15m, 7 | |||
7c | ★★★ Playboy Connection
Linkup. Start at 'Ton Sai Playboy' and continue right after 4th bolt to join 'Mafia Connection'. Often confused with 'Tonsai Playboy' as this route is missing in most guidebooks. All titanium bolts. | 15m, 6 | |||
7c+ | ★★ Mafia Connection
Starts just left of 'Love for Travelling', finishes on the anchor just right of 'Ton Sai Playboy'. Tricky start, pumpy finish. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Équip.: Andrea Gallo & Steffen Frey, 1996 | 13m, 6 | |||
7c+ | ★★★ Mafia Connection (Variation)
Finish variation after the early crux. Veers right after the 3rd bolt and joins 'Love for Travelling' just below the small roof. All titanium bolts. | 13m, 7 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Love for Travelling
Very nice line that, for some reason, gets much less attention than the popular and always busy 'Lal Bab' or 'Babes in Thailand', although it is just as good. A bit of an awkward stemming start to get onto the thick stalactite. Some nice 3D climbing towards the small roof, which is actually easier than it looks once you've sorted out the beta. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Hee Youn Kang, 2000 | 13m, 8 | |||
7c | ★★★ Just Dusit
Shares the first bolt with 'Germans in Tights', then left. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Will Hair, 1994 | 12m, 6 | |||
7b | ★★ Germans in Tights
Shares the first bolt with 'Just Dusit', then right. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Will Hair, 1994 | 12m, 6 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Second Home Ton Sai
Another great line that is often overlooked and sees by far not as much traffic as many of the "classics" in the roof. Boulder out the start and then fight the pump to the anchors. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Hee Youn Kang, 2000 | 13m, 7 | |||
6c | ★★ [Closed] Beauty and the Beast
The route has been closed and the crux bolts removed (see comments). The original description is preserved for posterity: Awesome route !!! A little bit psycho when you must fall on the tufa. Seems to be 6c for people under 1.70m, for the other 6a+. But, you should do this route!!! Équip.: Bjoern Alber & Nantawan Alber, 2005 | 15m | |||
6c+ | ★★ Stalagasaurus
Original grade 6a+. Upgraded after breakage of a huge stalactite in 2004. Good climbing other than the broken section, which wrecks thew flow. Still fun and still worth it. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Équip.: Will Hair, 1994 | 13m, 7 | |||
7a | ★★ Babes in Thailand
Popular climb on pinches and jugs. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Will Hair, 1994 | 12m, 5 | |||
8a | ★★★ Sex Power
All titanium bolts. Équip.: Hee Youn Kang, 2000 | 13m, 6 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Lal Bab
Early crux, followed by big powerful moves on jugs in the first half, then much easier and less steep to the top. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Ian Tumball, 1995 | 14m, 5 | |||
8a | ★★ Elephant
4 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Équip.: Hee Youn Kang, 1999 | 13m, 5 | |||
7c | ★★★ Banshee
| 20m, 5 | |||
8a+ | ★★ Cream of Tom Yum Kai
Too much fun for one climb. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Sam Lightner, 1998 | 13m, 5 | |||
8b | ★★★ Ant Jump
All titanium bolts. Équip.: Hee Youn Kang, 2000 | 13m, 5 | |||
7c+ | ★★ Voodoo Doll
All titanium bolts. Équip.: Max Dufford, 1995 | 15m, 7 | |||
8a | Forbidden Paradise
Slash grade 7c+ according to youtube. | 7 | |||
7c+ | ★★★ Phet Maak
A real classic of the area. Originally graded 8a and still is if you go direct, nowadays most people head out right to the large tufa midway essentially avoiding the crux. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Max Dufford & Divinder Singh, 1992 | 15m, 7 | |||
8b | ★★ Cara Cangreso
All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Czech Open. Équip.: Carlos Bresco, 1997 | 15m, 9 | |||
8b+ | Czech Open
Start variation to the right of 'Cara Cangreso' and share anchor. Joins on the headwall. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Czech climbers, 1999 | 15m, 9 | |||
7c+ | ★★★ Gaeng Som Pla
Another Tonsai beach classic! Starts on the crack right of 'Czech Open'. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Max Dufford & Divinder Singh, 1992 | 15m, 8 | |||
7c+ | ★★★ Newen
| 5 | |||
8a+ | Hannes, the Beast
Starts 5m right of 'Gaeng Som Pla', straight through the steep grey roof into the structured rock below the anchor. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Équip.: Ghop & The RockShop team, 2008 | 15m, 6 | |||
7c | ★★ Speak no Evil
Traverse following the crack and the ledge on the roof. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Bjoern Alber, Nantawan Alber & Robert Baier, 2010 | 15m, 6 | |||
8b+ | Kun Suk Khoo
Traverses left along the upper crack in the roof, right and above 'Speak no Evil'. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Ymer Alber, Bjoern Alber & Henrik Bolander, 2015 | 18m, 8 | |||
7b | ★★ First Blood
The furthest line to right behind the bushes. Traverses left along the edge of the roof. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Bjoern Alber & Henrik Bolander, Jan 2016 | 15m, 7 | |||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Iguana Park | |||||
6b | ★ Sex C Plus
| ||||
7c | Scary Skinny Iguana
| ||||
6c+ | ★★ Secret Jam
| ||||
6a | Left Break
| ||||
6a | Honeycomb Hole
| ||||
5 | Durian Thorn
| ||||
Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Dum's Kitchen | |||||
7c | ★★ Full Crimp Milk
Leftmost line, short and bouldery. Shares anchors with 'Wadumori'. All titanium bolts. | 11m, 4 | |||
8b | Wadumori
8a+/b in the guidebook. Shares anchors with 'Full Crimp Milk'. All titanium bolts. | 11m, 4 | |||
7c+ | ★★ Society of Gravitational Studies
All titanium bolts. Équip.: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1993 | 12m, 4 | |||
Mama Zu
The steep face right of 'Society of Gravitational Studies'. Stainless steel glue-in bolts. Équip.: Wee Changrua, 2009 | 15m, 5 | ||||
8a+ | ★★★ Arts & Sport
Shares the start with 'Wake & Bake', then left onto the face. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1993 | 15m, 7 | |||
7a+ | ★★★ Wake & Bake
Climbs the obvious corner crack. Shares anchors with 'By Way of Deception'. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Cyro Glad, 1992 | 16m, 7 | |||
7a | ★ By Way of Deception
Starts right of the 'Wake & Bake' corner, shares the same anchor. Original start is hidden behind the shack. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Sam Lightner & Volker Schoeffl, 1993 | 16m, 6 | |||
6c | ★★ Jumping for Jugs
As the name suggests, jump for the jug to start. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Cyro Glad, 1993 | 15m, 6 | |||
7b | ★★ Nair Nawn
Shares the start with 'Jumping for Jugs', then right to the anchor of 'Fips, der Affe'. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Équip.: Rolando Larcher, 1995 | 18m, 6 | |||
7a | ★★ Fips, der Affe
Shares the first meters into the corner with 'The Day After', then left over the bulge to a technical balancy finish. Shares the anchor with 'Nair Nawn'. 2 titanium bolts, 4 slings. Équip.: Michael Hoffmann, 1992 | 20m, 6 | |||
7b | ★★ The Day After
Shares the start with 'Fips, der Affe', then straight up, sharing anchors with 'No Onion, No Garlic'. 4 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Équip.: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 20m, 6 | |||
6c+ | ★ No Onion, No Garlic
Up the tufas, then left to a pumpy finish. Shares the last two clips and anchors with 'The Day After'. 4 titanium bolts, 4 slings. Équip.: Francisco Ataide & Dolan, 2005 | 20m, 8 | |||
6b+ | ★ Aunt Mary Johanna & Two Girls
Old bolts and slings, overgrown. Cannot be climbed anymore. Équip.: Nick Germang, 1993 | 28m, 7 | |||
6c | ★ No Name
Pumpy start through the overhang left of 'Schlingel Max'. Easier finish. 1 titanium bolt, 4 slings. Équip.: Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer, 1999 | 15m, 5 | |||
6b | ★★ Son thoi
Share start with Schlingel Max, then turn left to anchor of No Name. FA: Hanh Le | 15m, 4 | |||
6b | ★ Schlingel Max
Interesting crux on polished rock. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Équip.: Michael Hoffmann, 1992 | 15m, 6 | |||
7a | ★★ Don Quijote de la Mancha
Starts just left of 'Schlingel Moritz'. Technical start, easy middle section and a big move above the bulge. Don't cheat at the start by going too far right. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Ernesto Lopez & Pili Llatas, 1995 | 15m, 5 | |||
6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz
Hard start for the grade, especially when you're short. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Michael Hoffmann, 1992 | 15m, 6 | |||
6c | ★★ Good Medicine
One pockety tough crux towards the middle, then smooth sailing - top is a beautiful and much easier slab. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Bjoern Alber, Nantawan Alber & Robert Baier, 2006 | 23m, 7 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Reminiscence
A true Tonsai beach classic. Starts on the tufas right of 'Good Medicine'. Titanium bolts. Équip.: Sam Lightner & Todd Skinner, 1992 | 28m, 8 | |||
Maxi's Project
Squeezed in on the steep featureless rock between 'Reminiscence' and 'Mai Mee Fahn'. Équip.: Maxi Montree & Ghop, 2015 | 22m, 6 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Mai Mee Fahn
Hard crux right at the start to get up to the tufas. Afterwards easier, but continuous. Reachy both at the start and towards the anchor. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Todd Skinner, 1993 | 15m, 5 | |||
8b+ | ★★ Avocado Power
All titanium bolts. Équip.: Samsungding Doloh, Ghop & The RockShop, 2010 FA: Samsungding Doloh, 2011 FFA: Steve Townsemd, 2013 | 22m, 9 | |||
6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King
Climbs around the prominent flake with insanely polished feet. Though the crux awaits right before the anchor. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Volker Schoeffl, Melanie Schoeffl & Sam Lightner, 1996 | 12m, 4 | |||
7b | ★★ The Tiger Queen
Easy start towards a crimpy crux. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Ola Brahammar, 2006 | 12m, 4 | |||
Thai Taam Nean
Project about 8b, though only bolted with expansion bolts. Équip.: Pha-Rhay Team, 2009 | 25m, 8 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Storm in Head
Extension of 'Thai Tham Nean'. Also only expansion bolts. Équip.: Pha-Ray Team, 2009 | 15m, 5 | |||
8b | ★★★ Jai Dum
An amazing line linking a series of small flakes up the beautiful orange wall. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Sam Lightner, 1997 | 25m, 7 | |||
8b+ | ★★★ Of Popes and Power
All titanium bolts. Équip.: Alex Catlin, 1995 | 25m, 9 | |||
8c+ | ★★★ Greed
Currently the hardest ascent in Thailand. ‘It’s On’ from start to finish. Phenomenal climbing. All titanium bolts. Équip.: Alex Catlin, 1997 | 30m, 10 | |||
8c | Hot Springs
Broken hold, needs repairs and rebolting. Protected by expansion bolts. Équip.: Koran Pavel, 2002 | 30m, 10 |