Noeuds dans The New Quarry

A novelty route making the best of the limited rock outside the left end of the fenced enclosure. Worthy for its lowly grade. It is currently approached, by the bulk of climbers, by squeezing through a small gap where the enclosure fence meets the rock. On no account should you climb attempt to surmount the wire fence or in any way risk damage. Pull up onto the top of a compact pillar then track diagonally leftwards to holds at the left end of the overlap above. With your hands on the slab above traverse back right and up to an abseil station atop Agua Colorado.

Easy Climbing, just don't stab your ass on the fence!

Skip the crux of bulking agent using holds on the arete, rejoin right between bolts 2 & 3.

A very fingery line up the left hand side of the sheer wall immediately left of Bitter and Twisted.

The centre of a sheer white wall, a searing, greasy testpiece.

Traverse right to left under Bitter and Twisted, following the diagonal crack. Finish on the big sidepull as you round the corner. New ring lower-offs installed 24.09.2020. as the left staple lower-off was loose.

Line right of Bitter and Twisted shares the same anchors, deceptively challenging with extreme polish.

Climb the non-line right of Dinosaur Beach, eliminate holds out left or right.

The top peg and top 8mm bolt have both been replaced with new 12mm stainless bolts. There is also a new double-ring abseil.b This has been retro bolted on a slightly different line.

A direct version of an older Trad E4. Climb the line of bolts above a borehole strike directly to meet and finish as for Paiste 2002. Moving out left after the second bolt and climbing the right curving weakness to rejoin the line at the 5th bolt is 7a.

next line of bolts 10m right of Bitter and Twisted.

Unusual combination, good under clings with spicy face climbing.

CLimb diagonally right into a short corner, pull through overhang powerfully to finnish

Crag favourite, start beneath short corner fast paced and dynamic climbing to the top!

A forearm burner on a spanking wall, start 6m right of the right edge of the ramp.

Follow Ready and Waiting, shoot right at bolt 6. Sequency moves diagonally then straight up to anchors.

Balancy, contrived crux at the top, goes at 6c if you finish left for the last 3m.

Improbable and well protected climbing that finds an accessible path through an intimidating neighbourhood. Climb the easy wide, white groove past a couple of old pegs to a small foot-ledge (bolt above). Step across to the left and move up with difficulty past a bolt runner to a resting place under the jagged overhang (8mm bolt and handy wire placement). Follow the series of blocks steeply up leftwards past a bolt runner to reach good handholds and a peg (with in-situ sling). With added protection from wires and cams continue much more easily up into the scoop above to reach a deep slot and finish with a hard reach past a bolt runner to a replacement double ring abseil station.

Re-cleaned and re-equipped 2012. An extra bolt added just below the abseil station.

Additional quality and difficulty added to an already fine pitch. From the overhang at two thirds height on Bushmen Don't Surf take the right-hand line up a groove to the lower-off.

A laudable modern hybrid that puts together all of the best climbing in this area of the crag. Well protected throughout and only marred by some of the suspect rock in common with System Z. Start below the major groove-line, which leads up to roofs at 12m. Climb the groove past two low pegs to a bolt and an ash stump at the base of the prominent crack. Ease up and with protection from a high second bolt break out diagonally leftwards. Step up with difficulty to a third bolt and cross over to a peg in the main-groove line of System Z. Climb this hollow groove carefully to a suspect bulge and surmount it gently to gain the solid slab above. With added protection from a peg out to the right keep tightly to the corner and pull up over a small roof (peg and in-situ thread) to a ledge and further peg beneath a steep wall of compact rock. Climb this wall past a bolt and move slightly left to a final bolt on the Chepstow Zombie Finish. Abseil station above on the right.

Direct start to Just This Once.

A left-right link-up crossing No Strange Delight. Although originally ascended as a right-hand finish to No Strange Delight, the popular vote is to now start up No Crag for Old Men. (Note: escaping early into Stammheim to avoid the finish is poor form). Climb No Crag for Old Men and move right to the second eco-bolt on No Strange Delight. Swing out right from here to a big incut, climb the small, yellow wall and reach high directly above the penultimate bolt runner to a mini finger rail. Swing up right to big jugs and finish up rightwards past a final bolt runner to a double ring abseil station shared with Stammheim.

Another technical delight once again with a pause at the halfway mark. Climb to and then up the line of borehole strikes on their left and reach a ledge. Continue up via the wall and slight corner to a final pull which gains a lower-off.

Top groove has now been retrobolted. New bolted abseil station to the right of the dodgy one.

Height extended to a new shared double ring abseil station. The most popular route on the crag.

Originally E2 6a (climbing direct up the right side of the lower wall past two bolts). The line was retro-bolted in 2012.

An eliminate baldish entry into Stammheim

With a new lease of life, the route gives enjoyable stress-free climbing with consistent good protection. Start up the left side of the rib (small wire) and step across onto a ledge and a welcoming vertical nut slot ('hexs' useful). Climb the rib past two bolt runners to a slabby section (small wires) and the top of a projecting diamond-shaped block (bolt out on the left). From the niche above (hidden old peg), reach leftwards over the remaining bulge to another old peg (and good 1.5 + 2 cams) before traversing out left and stepping up onto a short slab. Finish past a final redundant peg to a shared double ring abseil station immediately above on the apex of the rib.

Originally E1 5a. Re-cleaned and re-equipped, with two extra bolts added in 2012.

An agreeable natural line with steady protection and thoughtful non-strenuous climbing. Start up the left side of the rib (small wire) to reach a ledge and a welcoming vertical nut slot ('hexs' useful). (all as for Night of the Comic Dead). Follow the ramp line diagonally rightwards past two new peg runners (with optional good protection variously down on the right) to reach a small complex overlap. Pull over rightwards into the scoop above, peg, and finish delicately rightwards to a shared double ring abseil station.

Originally E1 5a. Re-cleaned and two extra pegs added in 2012.

A surprisingly entertaining and worthwhile recent addition with plenty of gear. Start two metres left of Heartbeat City beneath a clear, narrow groove line. Climb the groove line to its close (old peg runner on the left and optional pair of pegs out right on Heartbeat City just reachable.) Step left beneath a good vertical nut slot and pull over onto the ramp of Pastiche. Follow the ramp past two pegs to an overlap, step left and then climb the right-side of the large diamond-shaped block above with a reachy move past a bolt runner. Finish at a double ring abseil station up on the right.

Varied and absorbing. Climb the open groove to a pair of peg runners (wires down on the left and immediately above). Pull up leftwards (various gear) then step out right onto the overhang to reach a peg runner and in-situ thread just above. Climb the right-side of the prominent elongated hole past a bolt runner (and good wire above) then finish delicately, with a quicker pulse, on much smoother rock to a shared double ring abseil station.

Originally E2 5b. Re-cleaned and re-equipped, with an extra peg added in 2012. Abseil station re-located to the left.

A last great problem of the quarry.

Start just beyond the double fence. Only gear is 2 new bolts plus new bolt belay. Climb boldly to first bolt and make insecure move at the overlap. Clip next bolt and make tricky moves at next overlap and run it out to the 2nd bolt belay.

Good value and a bit tricky in places following the line of least resistance through the steepening wall. Start one metre right of the green-railed fence. Climb delicately up to a small bulge, reach over to a good handrail and clip a bolt runner on the right. Climb a short easy slab to a more menacing bulge (wire placement and two peg runners) then step left and pull over, crux, to ease into a small niche with a black borehole (good wires and optional big hex). Break out, up and right, into a comfy alcove (bomber gear) and step around a very sharp arête (take care with the ropes!). The shared double ring abseil station is just above.

Originally E1 5a. Re-cleaned, with an extra peg and bolt added in 2012.

1. E3 5b, 15m.

2. XS 4c, 10m.

Start 8m right of the fence and follow the bolt line up past overhangs to a lower-off.