Exploding Galaxy Wall Principalement Escalade traditionnelle 19 voies en paroi

Remarkably varied, exposed and sustained climbing from start to finish sets this route firmly in the mould of "modern classic". Start 20m up from the base of the wall on a ledge next to a short slab and below a precarious looking flake.

1. 5c, 22m. Gain and layback the flake to a ledge. Move up rightwards to a borehole and peg. Climb the borehole via some difficult moves and traverse right to a good ledge and various belays, including an old spike.

2. 6a, 25m. Flip the rope over a spike high on the right for a runner and then make fingery moves direct to a pocket and crack. Climb the crack above the pocket and gain a small ledge, peg. Stand on the ledge and move up the wall to easier ground. Traverse left to a good calcite thread, at the base of an impending corner above. Climb the corner to an awkward stance on a block with various belays.

3. 5c, 23m. Move up right and climb past old bolts to some steep moves on good holds that lead to a prominent peg and small pancake of rock (good thin sling runner). Move up to and over the bulge above and finish leftwards past a short crack and a final steep move to ledges.

Exposure and fine well-protected climbing are the main components of this memorable high-rise pitch. Start as for Yellow Edge.

1. 5c, 26m. Yellow Edge pitch 1.

2. 5b, 22m. Yellow Edge pitch 2.

3. 5c, 22m. Head out leftwards to some pegs, and then climb the wall above past a peg to a break under a thin crack guarded by a bulge. Access the crack and follow it past pegs and then finish up flakes.

Intense climbing that builds to a decisive pitch which battles up the thin seam and shear wall left of the top of the ramp. Start as for Yellow Edge.

1. 5c, 26m. Yellow Edge pitch 1.

2. 5c,16m. Clip a peg above the ledge on the right and move up the wall and onto a hollow flake/ledge. Move up leftwards (peg), traverse left 1m and then head up the wall rightwards to a bolted belay in the horizontal band of pocketed rock.

3. 6b, 30m. Move up to a very thin crack (peg) and climb it to a ledge. Move up the wall above leftward (peg) and then on up the fingery wall past a peg to another on the left. Move up right and then left to a peg before reaching a break above, that is traversed left until the top can be gained or the bolted belay of Was it You?

A sport-style single pitch up the wall right of the diagonal break of Amanita Muscarina's third pitch. Start from the bolted belay at the start of the third pitch of Tour de France that is best reached via an awkward abseil from the top of the ramp or by starting up the lower pitches of Tour de France. Protection is provided by a collection of bolts, pegs and a large cam. On the left take the thin wall past a break and up a crack to a ledge (cam). The wall above leads to a thin break from where a move utilising a slot reaches a sequence of hard moves right to finish at a bolted belay. Abseil off or top out.

7c/7c+. Climb the easy opening sequence of 'Was It You’ to the thin break and natural peg and compose yourself for a direct assault up the holdless wall where the parent route wimps-out leftwards. At the thin horizontal seam make a ‘baby bouncer’ between the parent’s bolt and the peg on Tour de France. The final attack is made without any protection until the final bolt of the parent can be clipped, however a slightly safer option is to first, tenuously clip the peg on Tour de France with a long reach out right. Finish at the in-situ lower off.