Aide

Saison

J
F
M
A.
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

Subluminal is the place everybody heads to for a first taste of Swanage steepness. The main reason for its popularity is the good selection of solid, short and amenably graded routes. Access is quick and there is a good ledge system running beneath the climbs that is well clear of the waves giving the place a friendly atmosphere. It lies just west of the lighthouse and the Black Zawn beneath open grass slopes. There is a clean-cut ledge above the climbs for gearing up and socialising, along with plentiful stakes for belays. Many of the climbs offer technical and fingery exercises as well as some bulging test-pieces in the Avernus Area.

3D-Topo Freda Area.

Approche

Park at Durleston Country Park (£6 per day, or half price if you join "Friends of Durleston") and walk down the nearby path towards the lighthouse. Subliminal can be found by walking straight ahead towards the sea to the right of the lighthouse.

Tags

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie

FA: K. Cartwrite, 1966

FA: Steve Taylor & Mike Robertson, 1992

FA: G. Foster & J. Ross, 1990

FA: Jim Titt & W. Wheeler, 1976

FA: Jim Titt, 1976

FA: Tony Wilmott, 1965

FA: Tony Wilmott, 1965

A fun route that swallows small nuts. Getting established on the wall takes a bit of effort. Once on follow the rightward trending ramp. Exit directly before the climbing gets too hard.

FA: A. Blakely, 1988

FA: Juggler, 1970

FA: Kevin Turner, 1977

A good route for first trad lead

FA: Jim Titt & Frank Farrell, 1976

Engaging, varied and well protected. Climb direct up the rounded rib to a prominent left-facing layback flake.

FA: Scott Titt & Nigel Coe, 1992

FA: Pete Oxley, Brian Tilley & Steve Williams, 1987

The deep gap in the ledge crossed by the ‘awkward move’ is capped by a short hanging slab, start below this.

14m: Step up onto the short hanging slab and move up into a massive niche…

FA: M. Hunt & A. Gilbert, 1977

FA: R. C. White, 1965

FA: Jim Titt & Scott Titt, 1976

The first of two well-protected, classic corner-lines. A good introduction to the area. Start at the bottomless corner that forms the left hand side of the sheer wall, left of ‘The Bad Step’.

14m: Pull straight into the corner…

The central line of the sheer wall between First Corner and Second Corner gives sustained climbing with good, but hard-to-place gear. Start below the wall just right of First Corner.

14m: Use the diagonal crack to reach the first overlap…

FA: Tony Wilmott, 1965

FA: Pete Oxley, 1984

A well-protected pitch. Start at the shallow corner and crack directly above ‘The Bad Step’.

14m: Step in from the right and use twin cracks to gain the corner…

One of the best of its grade hereabouts. Start just right of ‘The Bad Step’, below a thin crack with an old peg in place at 4m.

14m: Climb the thin crack with difficulty, passing the peg…

FA: Tony Wilmott, 1965

FA: Tim Dunsby, 1971

Eastern descent or escape route

Le saviez-vous ?

Saviez-vous que vous pouvez créer un compte pour enregistrer, suivre et partager vos ascensions ? Des milliers de grimpeurs le font déjà.

Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Mark Glaister & Pete Oxley

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781873341735

A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing found at Portland, Swanage and Lulworth, plus the best of the trad climbing.

Auteur·e·s: Ben Stokes

Date: 2015

ISBN: 9781873341131

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the bouldering at Portland, Lulworth and Swanage in Dorset, covering a total 1,943 different problems.

Auteur·e·s: Climbers Club

Date: 2014

ISBN: 9780901601841

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the trad climbing, sport climbing, bouldering and deep water soloing found at Swanage, plus the Isle of Wight.

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

Partager ceci

Mar 9 Mai
Regardez ce qu'il se passe à Subluminal.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文