Ascensions dans California

J and I were the only ones stupid enough to crag here in the sun during a heatwave so we had the crag to ourselves. That was until J was halfway up the finger crack and a shirtless fella stumbled out of the trees asking what the climbs here were. Proceeded to lay on a rock beside my belay spot, staring into the sun like a lizard, he introduced himself as Hans - asked me where I was from, what the Aussie climbing was like and telling me about his time in Araps and the Bluies. He then without a word stumbled back into the bushes. I had to Google to check if new grandpa Hans was the Hans (Florine), which he was. J returned to Earth and I sprayed about what just happened - only for more rustling in the bushes and back comes Hans with Yuji Hirayama behind him. We shared the crag for the rest of the afternoon with some very entertaining discussion while trading belays. Yuji made comments about his lack of hand jam endurance on five and dime which made me feel better after dogging the fuck out of it after Hans exclaimed "show us what you got Mr Frog Buttress"

Remove the X maybe up the grade to 5.10 ambiguous

I do not know how this got assigned a 5.4 rating. I have climbed this route a few times and nearby routes many times. There definitely exists a 5.0 route that corresponds with the photograph. The view from the belay station that's at the end of the first pitch on the direct ascent (just below the notch; level with where the belay point is marked on kindergarten crack) makes this a classic.

You should not in fact do this as one pitch; high winds in the area result in loss of communication between climber and belayer. Two pitches minimum.

Protection placed: cams between .25 and 3; a pair of mid-sized (I know them as blue) wedges and a very large wedge; and multiple bollards.

This ascent is my first redpoint of this route; I have previously led this route but all prior attempts were done as class 6 ascents due to climbing directly on a cam in the crux point.

First route at Tahquitz! Led all pitches. Sandbagged af. "Downclimb" first requires a 100 ft friction slab up climb 😅 and then a tricky descent on a v steep gulley.

Led all pitches! The downclimb is a trip -- first you friction slab 100 feet and then find a windy path to the right for a steep down hike/climb.

Absolutely phenomenal line, up there with the Spartan for the best 5.7 in existence. Except this is 3 pitches of equal quality climbing. Sick corner and roof on p1, absurd runout arete face climbing exposure on p2, a chimney that you wish went forever into a pretty scary traverse on a single bent up piton into 40m of jug hauling on p3. P3 traverse absolutely scarier on second with the lack of pro but J powered through after hauling the pack through the chimney - smiles the whole way up the jug haul.

I absolutely butchered the route finding on p2 when trying to link pitches, rope drag defeated me on the solable terrain just shy of the summit - linkup with corro corner

Sick undercling traverse on slabby terrain

5.11 friction slab can't possibly exist. This thing had no hand holds the whole way, every foot slip just resulted in a good scare but then your foot just sticks to the next bit of nothing it can find