The direct start is a good variation to the original if you don't feel like 5.9 R slab climbing. Step up on the ledge next to the tree. Pull onto the face up to the first bolt on pretty good holds. You can sling the tree, a flake, or get a bomber yellow #2 C3 in before the first bolt. Pull onto a creaky flake (feels bad but it will hold) Make some hard moves to clip the 2nb bolt and get to the sloper rail. Delicate climbing up to a little horn which feels like a jug at this point get a good shake and work up the side pulls. Bust out right to a good gaston (you can get a 000 C3 under the flake but I'm not sure it would hold, more of a mental piece) Pull over the bulge on bad slopers and worse feet then make your way back to the left to a really fun finger crack and meet up with the original route. Location 110 yards right of Sundial Crack. Protection 2 bolts, standard Looking Glass rack.
There is no known route history.
5.11a | Cotation(s) agréée(s) par la communauté |
★★★Jakob Kapelj | |
5.11a | Jeff Mekolites |
Auteur·e·s: Greg Loomis
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9780990782124
For year-round bouldering fun in the Piedmont region of North Carolina, your next exciting challenge awaits in the Moore's Wall Bouldering guide, featuring over 500 fantastic problems.
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