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The Far Side Wall Guide

  • Contexte de la cotation : US

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Mike Engle

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Table of contents

1. The Far Side Wall

Summary:

39 routes in Sector

La plupart Escalade sportive

Limitations de l'accès

Massacre Rocks is part of the much larger “American Falls Archaeological District” (AFAD). There are multiple land jurisdictions in both the AFAD and where climbing takes place (see BLM Map). Extensive and well documented studies of the AFAD near and around the Snake River show many cultural resources and evidence of human habitation for at least the last 13,000 years. This area is considered sacred to the local Shoshone- Bannock tribes. Be respectful and minimize your footprint and impact in the area. Keep your staging area small and contained. Pick up and pack out your trash including tape, orange or banana peels, cigarette butts, etc. Prevent your dog from digging. Don’t start or make any fires, especially near the base of cliffs.

Also, please, only park in one of the designated parking areas and respect all road closures. Sandy soils in the AFAD are prone to wind erosion. Motorized vehicles and even foot traffic can damage the fragile ecology and could destroy rare, irreplaceable evidence of 13,000 years of human habitation. When hiking to the crags use established trails and don’t short cut or braid existing trails. Use the following graphic from the BLM to understand which areas are closed to motorized travel.

hérité de Massacre Rocks State Park

éthique

The absic infor provided here is from Massacre Rocks Climbing Guide, Updated By: © 2016 Mike Engle, Engle Portal Productions

Updates available at http://www.seiclimbing.com New Route Info: contact Mike Engle @ mike.w.engle@gmail.com

hérité de Massacre Rocks State Park
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blizzard

Steep white rock, follow thin seam left through roof

5.11d Sportive 5
2 Typhoon

First 2 bolts of 'Blizzard', then right into white right facing corner

5.11c Sportive 5
3 Twist & Pout

Thin diagonal crack start to second bolt then straight up

5.11c Sportive 5
4 Ghouly-Mon

Up white face to short steep crack finish

5.11d Sportive
5 Gasper the Friendly Toast

About 30 yards right of 'Twist & Pout', scramble up 15 feet to first bolt, great pockets, way steep

5.12b Sportive 5
6 Bouldergeist

Goes up through crux slot

5.11a Sportive 4
7 Holey Moley

100 yards right of 'Bouldergeist', 4 bolts up overhung prow on grey pocketed features. Massacres steepest and best pocket climb

5.11a Sportive
8 Good to the Last Drop

50 yards right of 'Holey Moley', crux finish, chain anchor

5.10c Sportive 4
9 No-Doze

About 5' right of 'Good to the Last Drop'

5.11b Sportive 5
10 Bull-Doze

Several cruxes, finish in shallow right corner

5.11b Sportive 4
11 Pug-Nose

Project

5.11a Non-définiProjet
12 Twinkle-Toes

Starts in crux corner

5.12a Sportive 5
13 Stacked Deck

Slab start

5.8 Sportive 5
14 Honey Vee 11a?

Project, up slot

Non-définiProjet
15 Chip Off the Ol' Block

Starts up huge, free standing flake

5.12a Sportive 4
16 Killer Wail

Hop up on the slab, then try getting on the face to the left

5.12a Sportive 3
17 Humpback

Same start as 'Killer Wail', then up corner to arete above

5.10d Sportive 5
18 Slight of Hand

Right diagonaling finger crack

5.10a Sportive 6
19 Seal Clubber

Starts out of low cave, 2 bolts up brown feature, then angle right and up for 4 more bolts

5.11d Sportive 6
20 Save the Wails

Cave start, up and left to same finish (2 bolts) as 'Seal Clubber'

5.11b Sportive 6
21 Attitude Adjustment

Low cave start, then up right-leaning dihedral; may want to place pro (#0.5 Camalot) between bolts #4 and #5, same anchors as 'Thanx for the Ankors'

5.11c Sportive 6
22 Thanx for the Ankors

Starts on flat boulder at edge of low cave, hard moves through the first 3 bolts, then worthy finish

5.12b/c Sportive 6
23 Bad Style

Project, 5 bolts - chopped, double botched 'route' thin seam with poorly retro filled/patch drilled finger pockets

SportiveProjet
24 Around the World in 80 Ways

Shares first 2 bolts with 'U-Turn', then angle left to steep headwall finish

5.11d Sportive 6
25 U-Turn

Under cling right around flake, high first bolt, then right and up hand crack

5.10d Sportive 6
26 Funnel Vision

Scramble up ramp and left diagonaling finger crack to a high first bolt, struggle up the body-snatcher slot until you can escape right to the face

5.11b Sportive 4
27 Hilti Goes to Heaven

Right-leaning corner

5.11b Sportive 5
28 Crunch Time

Steep prow, 3-bolt variation to the last 2 bolts of 'Hilti Goes to Heaven'

5.12a Sportive 5
29 The Oasis

Up inside corner

5.11a Sportive 4
30 Lost in the Desert

Left side of creamy white prow, chain anchors

5.12a Sportive 4
31 The Mirage

Pretty, steep face, right side of creamy white prow

5.11d Sportive 4
32 Woof Direct

2 bolt direct start, bypasses roof on the left side, then finish on last 2 bolts of 'Big Woof'

5.11b Sportive 4
33 Big Woof

Wildest horizontal moves at Massacre!! Traverse roof crack right to left

5.12a Sportive 6
34 Unknown

(chain), just right of Big Woof start

Sportive 4
35 Momma Don't Let Your Babies Grow Up to Be Climbers!

Right of 'Big Woof', follow a right diagonal line

5.10a Sportive 4
36 Yapper

Up corner

5.11b Sportive 4
37 Top Dog

Brown barn-door bulge start

5.11c Sportive 4
38 Mal-A-Mutt

project

5.11b Non-définiProjet
39 Pooch

Brown bulge start, then angle right up steep face/arete

5.11c Sportive 4

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
5.8 Stacked Deck Sportive 5
5.10a Momma Don't Let Your Babies Grow Up to Be Climbers! Sportive 4
Slight of Hand Sportive 6
5.10c Good to the Last Drop Sportive 4
5.10d Humpback Sportive 5
U-Turn Sportive 6
5.11a Bouldergeist Sportive 4
Holey Moley Sportive
Pug-Nose Non-définiProjet
The Oasis Sportive 4
5.11b Bull-Doze Sportive 4
Funnel Vision Sportive 4
Hilti Goes to Heaven Sportive 5
Mal-A-Mutt Non-définiProjet
No-Doze Sportive 5
Save the Wails Sportive 6
Woof Direct Sportive 4
Yapper Sportive 4
5.11c Attitude Adjustment Sportive 6
Pooch Sportive 4
Top Dog Sportive 4
Twist & Pout Sportive 5
Typhoon Sportive 5
5.11d Around the World in 80 Ways Sportive 6
Blizzard Sportive 5
Ghouly-Mon Sportive
Seal Clubber Sportive 6
The Mirage Sportive 4
5.12a Big Woof Sportive 6
Chip Off the Ol' Block Sportive 4
Crunch Time Sportive 5
Killer Wail Sportive 3
Lost in the Desert Sportive 4
Twinkle-Toes Sportive 5
5.12b Gasper the Friendly Toast Sportive 5
5.12b/c Thanx for the Ankors Sportive 6
? Bad Style SportiveProjet
Honey Vee 11a? Non-définiProjet
Unknown Sportive 4
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