A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1. The Far Side Wall 39 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Far Side Wall
- Summary:
-
39 routes in Sector
Limitations de l'accès
Massacre Rocks is part of the much larger “American Falls Archaeological District” (AFAD). There are multiple land jurisdictions in both the AFAD and where climbing takes place (see BLM Map). Extensive and well documented studies of the AFAD near and around the Snake River show many cultural resources and evidence of human habitation for at least the last 13,000 years. This area is considered sacred to the local Shoshone- Bannock tribes. Be respectful and minimize your footprint and impact in the area. Keep your staging area small and contained. Pick up and pack out your trash including tape, orange or banana peels, cigarette butts, etc. Prevent your dog from digging. Don’t start or make any fires, especially near the base of cliffs.
Also, please, only park in one of the designated parking areas and respect all road closures. Sandy soils in the AFAD are prone to wind erosion. Motorized vehicles and even foot traffic can damage the fragile ecology and could destroy rare, irreplaceable evidence of 13,000 years of human habitation. When hiking to the crags use established trails and don’t short cut or braid existing trails. Use the following graphic from the BLM to understand which areas are closed to motorized travel.
éthique
The absic infor provided here is from Massacre Rocks Climbing Guide, Updated By: © 2016 Mike Engle, Engle Portal Productions
Updates available at http://www.seiclimbing.com New Route Info: contact Mike Engle @ mike.w.engle@gmail.com
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Blizzard
Steep white rock, follow thin seam left through roof | 5.11d | 5 | |||
2 |
★★ Typhoon
First 2 bolts of 'Blizzard', then right into white right facing corner | 5.11c | 5 | |||
3 |
★★ Twist & Pout
Thin diagonal crack start to second bolt then straight up | 5.11c | 5 | |||
4 |
★★ Ghouly-Mon
Up white face to short steep crack finish | 5.11d | ||||
5 |
★★★ Gasper the Friendly Toast
About 30 yards right of 'Twist & Pout', scramble up 15 feet to first bolt, great pockets, way steep | 5.12b | 5 | |||
6 |
★ Bouldergeist
Goes up through crux slot | 5.11a | 4 | |||
7 |
★★ Holey Moley
100 yards right of 'Bouldergeist', 4 bolts up overhung prow on grey pocketed features. Massacres steepest and best pocket climb | 5.11a | ||||
8 |
★ Good to the Last Drop
50 yards right of 'Holey Moley', crux finish, chain anchor | 5.10c | 4 | |||
9 |
★★ No-Doze
About 5' right of 'Good to the Last Drop' | 5.11b | 5 | |||
10 |
★★ Bull-Doze
Several cruxes, finish in shallow right corner | 5.11b | 4 | |||
11 |
★ Pug-Nose
Project | 5.11a | ||||
12 |
★★ Twinkle-Toes
Starts in crux corner | 5.12a | 5 | |||
13 |
Stacked Deck
Slab start | 5.8 | 5 | |||
14 |
★ Honey Vee 11a?
Project, up slot | |||||
15 |
★★ Chip Off the Ol' Block
Starts up huge, free standing flake | 5.12a | 4 | |||
16 |
★★ Killer Wail
Hop up on the slab, then try getting on the face to the left | 5.12a | 3 | |||
17 |
★ Humpback
Same start as 'Killer Wail', then up corner to arete above | 5.10d | 5 | |||
18 |
★ Slight of Hand
Right diagonaling finger crack | 5.10a | 6 | |||
19 |
★ Seal Clubber
Starts out of low cave, 2 bolts up brown feature, then angle right and up for 4 more bolts | 5.11d | 6 | |||
20 |
★ Save the Wails
Cave start, up and left to same finish (2 bolts) as 'Seal Clubber' | 5.11b | 6 | |||
21 |
★ Attitude Adjustment
Low cave start, then up right-leaning dihedral; may want to place pro (#0.5 Camalot) between bolts #4 and #5, same anchors as 'Thanx for the Ankors' | 5.11c | 6 | |||
22 |
★★★ Thanx for the Ankors
Starts on flat boulder at edge of low cave, hard moves through the first 3 bolts, then worthy finish | 5.12b/c | 6 | |||
23 |
Bad Style
Project, 5 bolts - chopped, double botched 'route' thin seam with poorly retro filled/patch drilled finger pockets | |||||
24 |
★★ Around the World in 80 Ways
Shares first 2 bolts with 'U-Turn', then angle left to steep headwall finish | 5.11d | 6 | |||
25 |
★ U-Turn
Under cling right around flake, high first bolt, then right and up hand crack | 5.10d | 6 | |||
26 |
★ Funnel Vision
Scramble up ramp and left diagonaling finger crack to a high first bolt, struggle up the body-snatcher slot until you can escape right to the face | 5.11b | 4 | |||
27 |
★ Hilti Goes to Heaven
Right-leaning corner | 5.11b | 5 | |||
28 |
★★ Crunch Time
Steep prow, 3-bolt variation to the last 2 bolts of 'Hilti Goes to Heaven' | 5.12a | 5 | |||
29 |
★ The Oasis
Up inside corner | 5.11a | 4 | |||
30 |
★★ Lost in the Desert
Left side of creamy white prow, chain anchors | 5.12a | 4 | |||
31 |
★★ The Mirage
Pretty, steep face, right side of creamy white prow | 5.11d | 4 | |||
32 |
★ Woof Direct
2 bolt direct start, bypasses roof on the left side, then finish on last 2 bolts of 'Big Woof' | 5.11b | 4 | |||
33 |
★★★ Big Woof
Wildest horizontal moves at Massacre!! Traverse roof crack right to left | 5.12a | 6 | |||
34 |
Unknown
(chain), just right of Big Woof start | 4 | ||||
35 |
★★ Momma Don't Let Your Babies Grow Up to Be Climbers!
Right of 'Big Woof', follow a right diagonal line | 5.10a | 4 | |||
36 |
★★ Yapper
Up corner | 5.11b | 4 | |||
37 |
★★ Top Dog
Brown barn-door bulge start | 5.11c | 4 | |||
38 |
★ Mal-A-Mutt
project | 5.11b | ||||
39 |
★ Pooch
Brown bulge start, then angle right up steep face/arete | 5.11c | 4 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.8 | Stacked Deck | 5 | |||
5.10a | ★★ | Momma Don't Let Your Babies Grow Up to Be Climbers! | 4 | ||
★ | Slight of Hand | 6 | |||
5.10c | ★ | Good to the Last Drop | 4 | ||
5.10d | ★ | Humpback | 5 | ||
★ | U-Turn | 6 | |||
5.11a | ★ | Bouldergeist | 4 | ||
★★ | Holey Moley | ||||
★ | Pug-Nose | ||||
★ | The Oasis | 4 | |||
5.11b | ★★ | Bull-Doze | 4 | ||
★ | Funnel Vision | 4 | |||
★ | Hilti Goes to Heaven | 5 | |||
★ | Mal-A-Mutt | ||||
★★ | No-Doze | 5 | |||
★ | Save the Wails | 6 | |||
★ | Woof Direct | 4 | |||
★★ | Yapper | 4 | |||
5.11c | ★ | Attitude Adjustment | 6 | ||
★ | Pooch | 4 | |||
★★ | Top Dog | 4 | |||
★★ | Twist & Pout | 5 | |||
★★ | Typhoon | 5 | |||
5.11d | ★★ | Around the World in 80 Ways | 6 | ||
★★ | Blizzard | 5 | |||
★★ | Ghouly-Mon | ||||
★ | Seal Clubber | 6 | |||
★★ | The Mirage | 4 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ | Big Woof | 6 | ||
★★ | Chip Off the Ol' Block | 4 | |||
★★ | Crunch Time | 5 | |||
★★ | Killer Wail | 3 | |||
★★ | Lost in the Desert | 4 | |||
★★ | Twinkle-Toes | 5 | |||
5.12b | ★★★ | Gasper the Friendly Toast | 5 | ||
5.12b/c | ★★★ | Thanx for the Ankors | 6 | ||
? | Bad Style | ||||
★ | Honey Vee 11a? | ||||
Unknown | 4 |