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Rubble Wall

  • Contexte de la cotation : US
  • Ascensions : 1

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Description

Broken-looking area just right of the 'Owl Cove Area', the wall faces east and the river and is significantly left of the 'Main Wall Area'. Best approached by traversing in from the 'Owl Cove Area' or it is directly across the Snake River from the boat put in for either the 'Owl Cove Area' or the 'Main Wall Area'.

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Massacre Rocks State Park

Massacre Rocks is part of the much larger “American Falls Archaeological District” (AFAD). There are multiple land jurisdictions in both the AFAD and where climbing takes place (see BLM Map). Extensive and well documented studies of the AFAD near and around the Snake River show many cultural resources and evidence of human habitation for at least the last 13,000 years. This area is considered sacred to the local Shoshone- Bannock tribes. Be respectful and minimize your footprint and impact in the area. Keep your staging area small and contained. Pick up and pack out your trash including tape, orange or banana peels, cigarette butts, etc. Prevent your dog from digging. Don’t start or make any fires, especially near the base of cliffs.

Also, please, only park in one of the designated parking areas and respect all road closures. Sandy soils in the AFAD are prone to wind erosion. Motorized vehicles and even foot traffic can damage the fragile ecology and could destroy rare, irreplaceable evidence of 13,000 years of human habitation. When hiking to the crags use established trails and don’t short cut or braid existing trails. Use the following graphic from the BLM to understand which areas are closed to motorized travel.

Éthique hérité de Massacre Rocks State Park

The absic infor provided here is from Massacre Rocks Climbing Guide, Updated By: © 2016 Mike Engle, Engle Portal Productions

Updates available at http://www.seiclimbing.com New Route Info: contact Mike Engle @ mike.w.engle@gmail.com

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Voies

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Cotation Voie

Left most route, start in a nice corner past 2 bolts to a ledge. Continue up a dihedral to a broken face on fine brown rock, stem a wide corner to the anchors

Bolt line up a pillar formation left of a large bush, climb into the left dihedral between the 3rd and 4th bolts, then hand traverse right at the 6th bolt to the right side dihedral and follow the corner/bolts to the anchor. Original route is 5.11b by avoiding both corners and cracks (with difficulty) and staying on the pillar only. Excellent climb if you follow the holds

Follow the line of bolts just right of the large bush about 1/3 the way up the cliff. This is the easiest approach pitch to Jail House Wall. Pull onto the large ledge and walk/scramble to the base of the routes on Jail House Wall

Right of Red Shank climb past 1 bolt to the ledge, climb up the face of the column to a corner system, finish at the anchors in a large roof

Clip the first 3 bolts on 'Puppy Chow', then move right and up over the hard bulge, 4 more bolts

Starts on gritty section to broken face, and finishes on prow

Short approach pitch then belay at anchors. The rock quality and climb improves after first few bolts

Clip the first 3 bolts on 'Cryday', then move right, up hard finger crack and over bulges

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Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Dave Bingham

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9781938393358

Wolverine Publishing:
Whatever style of climbing you prefer, Idaho Underground highlights over 1,500 well-known and lesser-know routes, from the spectacular limestone walls of the Fins to truly underground lava tubes.
  • Full-color 2nd edition includes over 1,500 routes and problems for sport climbing, trad climbing and bouldering at the Fins, Snake River Basalt, Boise and Sun Valley
  • Author Dave Bingham, an Idaho climbing legend, also spotlights lesser known areas, including the Black Cliffs, Teddy Bear Cove, Dierkes Lake, Leslie Gulch and more
  • Wolverine Publishing will donate $1 from every book sold to local climbing organizations

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