Voies dans South Peak

This climb starts about ten feet left of 'Breakneck' and 30' right of 'Triple S'. Follow flakes and edges to the obvious right facing corner. A #5 HB and a small wire are your only protection until you reach the corner where a #2 Camalot comes in way handy. The bottom of this right-facing corner separates into a detached flake, which is looks. Don't pull hard on it. Follow the corner up and past two bolts to the second right facing and slightly overhanging flake (TCU's).Move right to jugs and last bolt,make a long reach to a jug. Follow the corners to a two bolt anchor.

First pitch is also the first pitch of Marshall's Madness, the first major multiple large crack system from the left (west) corner on the face of a thousand pitons.

1. 40ft. Belayer should anchor in. Climb parallel finger/fist to thigh-sized cracks on sometimes water-polished rock. Best overcome by technique rather than strength; suggest leaning left/right to maximize the edges of the crack corners. Gear is plentiful and obvious, but some stances are somewhat precarious. Belay at two-bolt anchor with a good ledge to stand on. 5.9+ in my estimation, unless you have the technique dialed in.

2. 120ft. Continue up from the belay on terrain very similar to pitch one, nothing harder than 5.9. Clip old pitons if you want (they looked good to me on 9/11 2011), but back them up to be more safe. The gravy starts when you reach the very small roof where The Crack starts. Take time to rest, recouperate, and bolster your courage at the great body-squeeze chimney stance before the roof. Lean out and place a good 1" piece near the bottom of the crack, then launch out with bad intentions. My advice is: when in doubt, keep freakin moving! You may or may not run it out, but it's a cherry fall with nothing to hit but air. There are numerous options, and the way you climb this crack will depend on your strengths and style. I suggest moving right under the roof, laying back right to enter the crack. Once you're standing above the roof, reach across the crack left and grab the corner. Continue up the best crack climbing at Seneca rocks using a combination of hand/foot jambs in the crack, small toe ledges, and the left corner grab. Two cold shuts at the top, with one double-rope (60m) rappel back to the start.

Gear placements are bomber and obvious. The main crack takes .75 to 3 inches...mostly in the 1.5-3 inch range.

The rappel is a few feet right of the line of the climb, which makes retrieving stuck gear on rappel very difficult. (Yes, that happened to me)

Pitch1 Stay right of Thais and climb up somewhat unprotected but easy terrain to a ledge with a tree (70ft)

Pitch 2 Climb the crack right of the Thais chimney. Step let and climb the face of the column past a bolt to the level of the top of the Thais chimney. Climb up a second column right of Thais, then move left across Thais Escape to a thin crack in a corner. Climb 12 feet to a small belay ledge on the left (100 ft)

Pitch 3, really the only unique part of the climb, and the pitch worth doing: Climb straight up the wildly exposed north edge of the fin. Strenuous. (50 ft)

Cut over from Old Man's earlier and go up the blank, 5.5, no gear corner

After pulling the first roof on West Pole, move left under the roof on decent hands and small feet. After turning the corner, BEWARE the chunky holds out to the left: it's loose and friable there (trust me).

Dramatic roof, big air, easy approach to the overhang. Head wall may have bolts but they may also be 1/4" spinners.