Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | Date | |||
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West Virginia Reed's Creek | ||||||||
5.6 | FA ★ Superman | 12m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | Dim 25 Juil 2010 | ||||
Really fun line at the end of the pillar/wall. Crux is after the second bolt, straight up to unseen 3rd bolt. Move out to the arete after the 4th bolt to top. Say "Hi" to Superman.
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5.7 | ★ Superman | 12m, 4 | ★ Bon | Dim 17 Mai 2015 | ||||
very pleasant
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5.10b | FA ★★ A Grain of Sand | 16m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | Dim 21 Nov. 2010 | ||||
FFA.
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5.10b | ★★ A Grain of Sand - avec Kirby Crider | 16m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | Sam 18 Nov. 2017 | ||||
An egregiously bolted crack. Really the only egregiously bolted crack we climbed at reeds or smoke hole... but dang, this is a G trad route, not a sport climb!! Climbed on gear.
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5.10- | FA ★★★ Sea of Tranquility | 16m, 5 | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 14 Nov. 2009 | ||||
FFA.
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5.10a 5.10- | ★★★ Sea of Tranquility | 16m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | Dim 17 Mai 2015 | ||||
Could use some cleanup of loose rocks at the first roof
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5.10b 5.10- | ★★★ Sea of Tranquility | 16m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | Dim 19 Juil 2015 | ||||
It's a hard move over the roof. Height dependent.
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5.7 | ★★ Welcome to Reed's Creek - avec @drdoom | 14m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | Dim 14 Sept 2008 | ||||
Another enjoyable climb with a bit of sandy rock to start.
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5.7 | FA ★ Doctor Taco - avec Michal | 14m, 4 | Sam 14 Août 2010 | |||||
Established this route for Michal Macdaddy Stoneman for his (number withheld) birthday, jumped on the sharp end right behind Himself and Randy LaForce.
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FA ★★★ Angelfire | 6 | ★★★ Super classique | Lun 31 Mai 2010 | |||||
FFA.
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5.10 | FA ★★★ Angelfire - avec @drdoom | 6 | ★★★ Classique | Ven 21 Mai 2010 | ||||
From such crumbly beginnings, a great route emerges.
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5.8 | ★★★ Winter Harvest - avec Dan Matthews | 19m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | Ven 11 Déc 2015 | ||||
Nice. The bottom section requires technique. Goes as either a stem or an off-width. Slightly hard for it's grade.
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5.10b 5.10c | ★ One Page at a Time (UNKNOWN #2) | 19m, 8 | ★ Bon | Lun 21 Sept 2015 | ||||
An awkward move between 2nd and 3rd bolts at the crux. About the same as Bridge Burner if you don't reach to the left corner near Winter Harvest.
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5.10b 5.10a | ★★ Bridgeburners (Bridge Burner) | 17m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | Dim 19 Juil 2015 | ||||
One of the best routes I've lead at Reed's. Hold are thin up at the crux but they are all there.
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5.10a | ★★ Bridgeburners (Bridge Burner) - avec Dan Matthews | 17m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | Ven 11 Déc 2015 | ||||
The bolt at the crux is not optimally placed - it's too far left.
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5.11b | FA ★★★ Shaolin Mantis | 21m, 8 | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 21 Mars 2010 | ||||
FFA.
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5.10a | ★ Block Magic - avec Dan Mathews | 18m, 8 | ★ Bon | Dim 24 Avr 2016 | ||||
There is a bolt above the lip of the second overhang that you can't see from below. You can go straight over the left side of the roof (holds are actually solid; good invisible letterboxes) or you can travese left. A couple of cans inspire confidence on this route.
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5.10a | ★ Block Magic | 18m, 8 | Dans la moyenne | Sam 30 Sept 2023 | ||||
Split personality route. Probably would have climbed better as a mixed trad route with better bolt placements. Not a fan.
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5.8 | ★★ Internal Dialogue - avec Dan Matthews | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classique | Ven 11 Déc 2015 | ||||
An excellant climb. The upper section is like a baby High Exposure (in the Gunks)
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5.11b | FA ★★★ Disorientation 101 - avec Cindy Gray | 16m, 7 | ★★★ Classique | Mer 14 Oct. 2009 | ||||
Established and worked the line on lead and TR until shoulder failed. Made it through but could never link the moves without falling.
Then the Renovator, Ryan Eubank, crushed the moves and sent the first free ascent after a full day of trail work and a beer at the first Reed Creek Trail Daze and Send-a-thon. |
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5.11b | ★★★ Disorientation 101 - avec Anna, Ricky, Nick, Chloe, David, Daniel, Roberto, Brianna | 16m, 7 | Sam 8 Juin 2019 | |||||
Easy climbing and then WOW the blankest roof you've ever done seen. It'd be a real project .
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5.7 | Roll The Dice | 16m, 5 | Dans la moyenne | Dim 19 Juil 2015 | ||||
Kind of awkward to clip the chains on the shuts.
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5.10a | FA ★ Apophis | 21m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | Dim 31 Oct. 2010 | ||||
FFA.
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5.10c | ★ Apophis | 21m, 8 | Pas la peine | Sam 30 Sept 2023 | ||||
Someone had to clean it. Not great to lead or second, felt harder than 10a if you are short off the hands free ledge at 5th bolt. MP gives it 5.10c/d which is more realistic. Nice start but the bolting, rock and line after that aren’t great.
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5.8 | ★★ Theives In The Temple | 21m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | Dim 24 Juin 2012 | ||||
Nice easy, fun, long route.
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FA ★★ Hunter's Moon | 19m, 7 | ★★★ Classique | Sam 10 Avr 2010 | |||||
FFA.
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5.10c | ★ Golden Horseshoe - avec Anna, Ricky, Nick, Chloe, David, Daniel, Roberto, Brianna | 19m, 7 | Sam 8 Juin 2019 | |||||
Powerful boulder start. Tried this for the the first climb of the day and couldn't get past the move off the ground. Rest of the climb looks good. Want to come back to destroy this puppy.
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5.10 | ★★★ Reaching Conclusions - avec Andrew Kaplan | 19m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 10 Mai 2018 | ||||
Stick clipping is not necessary.
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5.9 | ★ Rain | 16m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | Lun 25 Juil 2011 | ||||
The opening moves are the crux, and they are not hard. Good big holds. Very mellow and fun after 2nd bolt. Water pours down the face after a good rain, hence the name.
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West Virginia Reed's Creek Gypsies Wall | ||||||||
5.8 5.9 | ★ Horse With No Name - avec Dan Mathews | 15m, 4 | Dans la moyenne | Dim 24 Avr 2016 | ||||
The bouldery start is probably harder than 5.8 if you don't find the easiest way.
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5.8 5.9 | ★ Gypsies | 15m, 6 | ★ Bon | Dim 19 Juil 2015 | ||||
Nice warm up. A little on the short side.
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5.8 5.9 | ★ Gypsies - avec Dan Mathews | 15m, 6 | ★ Bon | Dim 24 Avr 2016 | ||||
Could be 5.9-.
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5.9 | FA ★ Gypsies - avec Cindy Gray | 15m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | Ven 17 Juin 2011 | ||||
First line bolted on this wall.
A bit sandy to start, nothing wrong with a stick clip for the first bolt, or leaving a 'biner to bail. Gear is cheap, broken bones expensive. |
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5.9 | ★ Gypsies | 15m, 6 | ★ Bon | Sam 30 Sept 2023 | ||||
Nice route, good warm up
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5.9 | ★ Shaved Scamper - avec Dan Mathews | 15m, 5 | ★ Bon | Dim 24 Avr 2016 | ||||
Grounder if you fell clipping 3rd bolt. Could be 5.9+
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5.9 | ★ Shaved Scamper | 15m, 5 | ★ Bon | Sam 30 Sept 2023 | ||||
Nice wall with interesting climbing due to the diagonal nature of the bedding plane
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West Virginia Morgantown Secret Cliffs | ||||||||
5.8 | unknown #15 | 12m, 1 | Dans la moyenne | Sam 21 Avr 2012 | ||||
First route Chris and I did after finding this crag.
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5.9 | ★ unknown #14 | 15m, 2 | ★ Bon | Sam 5 Mai 2012 | ||||
Great warmup.
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5.10b | ★★ Calf Attack | 9m, 3 | Jeu 10 Mai 2012 | |||||
Friction face climbing up this one, named in honor of the hill you have to climb to get to this hidden crag.
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5.10a | ★ Dad Gum | 9m, 2 | ★ Bon | Jeu 10 Mai 2012 | ||||
First Free Assent at this crag.
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5.11a | ★★★ Bi-curious (unknown #9) | 11m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 10 Mai 2012 | ||||
Chris's first bolted route, and a fine one
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5.7 | ★ unknown #7 | 15m | ★ Bon | Sam 26 Mai 2012 | ||||
A good first trad lead for a beginning leader.
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5.11a | ★★★ unknown #6 | 15m | ★★★ Classique | Mar 15 Mai 2012 | ||||
Best Climb at this crag, steep and sustained
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5.13a 5.12c | ★★★ hold me danny baby (I am free (project)) | 15m, 5 | Sam 14 Juil 2012 | |||||
Just finished bolting this line. Gonna be a nice project for me.
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West Virginia Morgantown Hole in the Wall Hourglass Block | ||||||||
5.10d 5.11a | ★★ Heavens Gate | 3 | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 20 Sept 2012 | ||||
Good moves on the whole climb. this is my favorite route on this block.
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5.9 | ★★ Night N Day | 12m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 20 Sept 2012 | ||||
great warmup route
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West Virginia Morgantown Hole in the Wall Amphibian Block | ||||||||
5.11c | ★★ Black Salamander - avec Taylor Gum, Chris Egress. | 9m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 20 Sept 2012 | ||||
Taylor's and Chris's. first clean ascent of this climb. Great day of climbing
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West Virginia Morgantown Woodland Wall Tall Wall | ||||||||
5.10b | Full Pucker | Sam 17 Juin 2006 | ||||||
I remembered being scared to death going for the anchors.
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West Virginia Morgantown Woodland Wall Fairly Tall Wall | ||||||||
5.11d | ★★ Repent or Perish | 15m | ★★ Excellent | Mar 6 Juin 2006 | ||||
reachy
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5.11d | ★★ Repent or Perish | 15m | Mar 6 Juin 2006 | |||||
never got back to lead this one. loved this climb
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5.10c | ★★ Sheer Delight | 15m | ★★ Excellent | Mar 6 Juin 2006 | ||||
one cool climb
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5.10c | ★★ Sheer Delight | 15m | ★ Bon | Jeu 22 Juin 2006 | ||||
brandon led this day
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5.9 | ★ Potato Logs | 15m | Ven 18 Août 2006 | |||||
this was the funnest 5.9 i have climbed anywhere
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5.6 | Groovacious | Dans la moyenne | Ven 4 Août 2006 | |||||
trad climb bottom half 2 bolts at the top
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5.11b | ★ Nothing Smells Bad to a Dog | 15m | ★ Bon | Sam 16 Sept 2006 | ||||
As per my usual.... took two tries but it went down. Pretty decent climb. Nothing too terribly special.
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5.11a | Spider Walk | Jeu 22 Juin 2006 | ||||||
fell several times at the anchors, just couldn't get it.
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5.11c | ★ Blame the Dog | 12m | ★ Bon | Sam 16 Sept 2006 | ||||
Took two tries but finally ticked it. Pretty easy and fun climb. Overhanging with good holds.
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5.7 | Easter Monkey | 12m | Dans la moyenne | Dim 14 Août 2005 | ||||
One blind move around the corner.
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5.10d | Galloping Gazels | 12m | Dans la moyenne | Sam 16 Sept 2006 | ||||
Second to last climb of the day. I'm calling it a flash but I may have been on it before a long time ago. Hard for me to remember. Farily powerful move near the top.
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5.11b | ★★ End of the Game | 12m | ★★ Excellent | Dim 14 Août 2005 | ||||
Fun moves!
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5.10b | ★★ Climb of Passion | 12m | ★★ Excellent | Sam 20 Mai 2006 | ||||
pumpy lots of tech moves
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5.11a | Bolt 'em Up | 9m | Dans la moyenne | Sam 16 Sept 2006 | ||||
Did this on top rope ages ago. Finally led it. Very short climb with a pretty decent crux.
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5.10c | ★★ Caught in the Conflict | 14m | ★★ Excellent | Sam 20 Mai 2006 | ||||
pumpy at the top
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5.9 | ★ Frost Heaves | 14m | ★★ Excellent | Sam 20 Mai 2006 | ||||
tricky cool climb though
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5.10a | ★ Load Warriors | 11m | ★ Bon | Dim 14 Août 2005 | ||||
Juggy, good.
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West Virginia Coopers Rock State Forest Roof Rocks | ||||||||
5.9 | Variation: Yellow Belly Escape | 11m | Dans la moyenne | 2005 | ||||
Roof moves are extremely thin and hard. more like 10c/d
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5.10- | ★★ Gets me Horney | ★★ Excellent | Ven 16 Juin 2006 | |||||
the first moves are a boulder problem then a cool crack/flake up to the top
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★★ Gets me Horney | ★★ Excellent | Ven 16 Juin 2006 | ||||||
i can't count how many times i done this climb. great climb.
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5.9 | ★ Magilla Gorilla | Dans la moyenne | Sam 29 Avr 2006 | |||||
Variable starts. overhanging face is way harder than 5.9. The arete is about 5.9.
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West Virginia Coopers Rock State Forest Tilted Tree Alley Way | ||||||||
V4 | tombstone arete | Mer 6 Avr 2011 | ||||||
love this climb
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V5 | ★★ Wave Rider | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 28 Juin 2007 | |||||
Can't remember what day Drew and I did this but it was the only boulder problem I've done this season worth mentioning so I thought I'd add it! Fantastic line with a headsy top out.
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V4 | ★★★ Anti-Elvis | ★★★ Classique | Mar 17 Juil 2012 | |||||
Fell off going for the last hold.
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V3 | ★★ Moby Dick | ★★★ Classique | Ven 29 Août 2008 | |||||
Sweet. A little soft for a V3, but super fun.
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V3 | ★★ Moby Dick | ★★ Excellent | Lun 3 Sept 2007 | |||||
fun stuff
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West Virginia Coopers Rock State Forest The Good Block | ||||||||
5.9 | ★ A Very Good Climb | Ven 12 Août 2005 | ||||||
Nice enough little climb
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5.6 | Stud | Ven 12 Août 2005 | ||||||
Led by Boer first
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West Virginia Coopers Rock State Forest Sunset Wall (Jimi Cliff) | ||||||||
5.9 | Stop N' Go | 11m | Sam 29 Avr 2006 | |||||
1 crux move in the middle
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5.11b | ★★ The Alzheimer's Advantage | ★★ Excellent | Dim 9 Sept 2012 | |||||
Fell off after the crux, first time on this climb.
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5.7 | ★ The Arch | 11m | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 1 Juil 2004 | ||||
w Steve
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5.7 | ★ The Arch | 11m | ★ Bon | Jeu 1 Juil 2004 | ||||
w/John Z.
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West Virginia Coopers Rock State Forest Roadside Rocks Butcher Block | ||||||||
V3 | hangover helper | Mer 29 Août 2012 | ||||||
I can not complete this climb
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V3 | mad butcher traverse | Mer 29 Août 2012 | ||||||
Fell off last hold
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V1 | Local Color | Dans la moyenne | Lun 1 Sept 2008 | |||||
Down climb was "exciting"
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West Virginia Coopers Rock State Forest Roadside Rocks Ceiling Block | ||||||||
5.8 | ★★★ CB Unnamed C | 12m | ★★★ Classique | Dim 25 Juil 2004 | ||||
Really nice slab under great roof.
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5.6 | Roses Crack | Dans la moyenne | Dim 25 Juil 2004 | |||||
The obvious crack on the river side of the block. Easiest access to top. Requires reaching a rhododendron to top out.
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West Virginia Coopers Rock State Forest Roadside Rocks Tendon Repair Block | ||||||||
5.9 | ★★ Tilted Tee Crack | ★★ Excellent | Dim 25 Juil 2004 | |||||
Full value 9.
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West Virginia Coopers Rock State Forest Roadside Rocks Entrance Exit Boulders | ||||||||
V0+ | ★ Lip Traverse | ★ Bon | Dim 30 Mars 2008 | |||||
Very nice, good for cleaning upper holds of other routes
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V1 | ★ Thwang | Dans la moyenne | Dim 30 Mars 2008 | |||||
Cool dyno
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V2 | ★★ Warm-up Boulder Arete (stand start) | ★★ Excellent | Dim 30 Mars 2008 | |||||
Very cool, and plan on sending the sit-start next time
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V1 | ★ Apples | ★ Bon | Dim 30 Mars 2008 | |||||
A little soft for the grade
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V2 | ★★ Kaleidoscope | ★★ Excellent | Sam 10 Nov. 2007 | |||||
Sweet problem, if only it were longer
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V1 | ★★ Teen Spirit | ★ Bon | Sam 10 Nov. 2007 | |||||
Nice, little damp
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V2 | ★★ Vitamin P | ★ Bon | Sam 10 Nov. 2007 | |||||
Nice problem, definitely height dependent
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West Virginia Coopers Rock State Forest Roadside Rocks Mr. Clean Face Corridor | ||||||||
5.7 | Mr. Clean | 8m | Pourrie | Sam 26 Juil 2003 | ||||
Set-up the anchor for the route.
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West Virginia Coopers Rock State Forest Roadside Rocks Rotten Log Corridor | ||||||||
5.4 | ★ Tricky Top | 8m | ★★ Excellent | Sam 24 Juil 2004 | ||||
Easy lieback, also good crack for stemming.
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West Virginia Coopers Rock State Forest Roadside Rocks The Big Blocks | ||||||||
5.2 | ★ Access Crack | Mar 1 Juin 2004 | ||||||
soloed
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5.2 | ★ Access Crack | Pas la peine | Mar 14 Juil 2009 | |||||
soloed
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5.5 | ★ Organic Matter | Mar 1 Juin 2004 | ||||||
w steve
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5.5 | ★ Organic Matter | Dans la moyenne | Jeu 1 Juin 2006 | |||||
trad. climb
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5.5 | ★ Organic Matter | ★★★ Classique | Dim 18 Avr 2004 | |||||
lovely
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