Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
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Dim 26 Mai 2024 - Kochel | ||||||
Kienstein Rodeowand | ||||||
8 | ★★ Sackl Zement Halleluja - avec Fabian Michel | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Coole Route, die die crux von Beton ihh mit einem schönen Henkel Überhang verbindet.
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9/9+ | ★★ So um die neun - avec Fabian Michel | |||||
Started mit "so um die" im Riss und geht dann gerade nach oben. Ist wohl noch nicht im Führer.
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9-/9 | ★★ So um die... - avec Fabian Michel | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nette Tour mit harten boulderzügen auf den letzten Metern.
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Dim 26 Mai 2024 - Kochel | ||||||
Kienstein Patensektor | ||||||
7- | ★★ Capotschino - avec Fabian Michel | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
Homogene schöne Linie zum warmup.
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8+ | ★★ El Martino - avec Fabian Michel | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Coole Linie, harte Züge nach dem letzten Zwischenhaken.
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8- | ★★★ Tobacco Road - avec Fabian Michel | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Dim 19 Mai 2024 - Kochel | ||||||
Kienstein Rodeowand | ||||||
8+ | ★★★ Rodeo — 2 essais - avec la linnea | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Tiptop Ausdauerlinie im Riss. Kein Zug dabei der wirklich schwer ist. Ein, zwei Fingerklemmer erleichtern das Vergnügen. Im zweiten go relativ solide durchgekommen.
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8+ | ★★★ Rodeo - avec la linnea | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Tiptop Ausdauerlinie im Riss. Kein Zug dabei der wirklich schwer ist. Ein, zwei Fingerklemmer erleichtern das Vergnügen.
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6+ | ★★★ Einstürzende Altlasten - avec la linnea | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Wohl einer der besten 6er in Kochel (meiner Kenntnis nach).
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7- ~7 | ★★ Bodega - avec la linnea | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Schöne Linie, bissl zu schwer für 7-. Hoher erster Bolt und dann kommt die crux bis zum dritten Haken. Leistig und ein weiter Zug nach rechts oben. Danach herrlich und einfacher bis zum Umlenker.
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7+ Difficile | ★★ Strange Ways - avec la linnea | 20m | ||||
Relativ harte Einzelstelle zwischen zweitem und dritten Bolt. Ab dem dritten Bolt dann top Kletterei.
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Dim 12 Mai 2024 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Hauensteiner Gebiet Burghaldefels | ||||||
7 | ★★★ Zentralweg - avec Franz | 6 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Extraordinary route, some slabby moves, a crack section and steep pockets make this true gem. Must do here. Can be protected well with #0.2-0.75.
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7 |
★★ Ralf und Joe P1
- avec
Franz
1
| 3 | ★ Bon | |||
Good to wake up.
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8 Difficile | ★★ Hai — 2 essais - avec Franz | ★★★ Classique | ||||
One go to check out the moves, one go to fail once more. 🤣 Legendary steep route that pumps the shit out of you.
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Sam 11 Mai 2024 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Bruchweil - Bundenthal Bruchweiler Geiersteine Südwand | ||||||
6 Difficile | ★★ DAV-Weg - avec Cilly, Hannes, Laura, Nico | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
40m varied climbing. A true gem. Went all the way up to the summit book. Climb slow and steady to find the best holds.
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6+ Difficile | ★★★ Falkendach - avec Cilly, Hannes, Laura, Nico | 25m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
We did the direct start (preclip) which was pretty slabby. The roof is quite fun, climbed it over the bolt as a chimney and could Even place a #1 in the crack before going to the anchor. Steep funky moves.
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6- | ★★ Schnapsweg - avec Cilly, Hannes, Laura, Nico | 25m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice corner crack. Well protectable.
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Sam 11 Mai 2024 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Bruchweil - Bundenthal Bruchweiler Geiersteine Ostwand | ||||||
8 Difficile | ★★★ Superlative - avec Cilly | 32m, 8 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Climbed it once and could climb every move free in the first go. Many sections as well without a rest. It is indeed very slippery and "polished", but all moves are super cool. The upper part after the ledge is relatively easy compared to the lower hard stuff. Maybe Pfalz 7-. The spaced bolt distances can be secured using a red and green cam.
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Jeu 9 Mai 2024 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Luger Gebiet Luger Geiersteine Geierturm | ||||||
7 Difficile | ★★★ Sonnenweg - avec Nico, Laura, Cilly, Hannes | 6 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Wonderful long route along the crack. Pretty hard for the this grade. Easy start and from the short bulge to the top sustained crack climbing. Not too many footholds around the crack in many sections.
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7+/8- Difficile | ★★ Ratzeputz - avec Nico, Laura, Cilly, Hannes | 8 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Managed to climb both cruxes first try, but didn't find one undercling and got stuck before the first crux. One rest.
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Jeu 9 Mai 2024 - Westpfalz | ||||||
Luger Gebiet Luger Geiersteine Geierkopf und Geierschnabel | ||||||
7 ~7+ | ★★★ Geierwally - avec Nico, Laura, Cilly, Hannes | 45m, 11 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Did this today as warmup and somehow climbed the slabby crux at the third bolt while pinching everything out of the broken little stone. Was pretty scared from bolt 1-4. Afterwards cruise up the steep jugs.
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7- Difficile | ★★ Luger Torweg 1 pitch - avec Nico, Laura, Cilly, Hannes | 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Pretty route with a tricky section around the corner. Variety of jugs and relatively well bolted for this area.
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Sam 4 Mai 2024 - Krettenburg | ||||||
Wichtelwand | ||||||
7- ~7 | ★ Nußknacker - avec Bergrettung | 10m, 5 | ||||
Crazy slab.
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5+ Difficile | ★★ Lisa - avec Bergrettung | 13m, 5 | ||||
Beginning is pretty complicated.
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6- | ★★ Willy Waldwichtel - avec Bergrettung | 12m, 5 | ||||
Mer 1 Mai 2024 - Burgau | ||||||
Kyogi | ||||||
6b | ★★ Nordwestverschneidung - avec Klara R, Fabian Michel | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Sheriff Donnerknall — 2 essais - avec Klara R, Fabian Michel | 26m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Another 2 tries, can climb every move and the crux, but still to pumped when arriving at the crux.
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Mer 1 Mai 2024 - Burgau | ||||||
Goldfinger | ||||||
6b | ★★ Goldfinger - avec Klara R, Fabian Michel | 12m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice warm-up. Cool face climbing for like 3 draws, but loose at the top.
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Mer 1 Mai 2024 - Burgau | ||||||
Steinzeitwerkstatt | ||||||
6a+ Difficile | ★★ Wa! - avec Sunny | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Pumpy for this grade.
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Mer 1 Mai 2024 - Burgau | ||||||
ICC | ||||||
7a | ★★ ICC- - avec Sunny | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Draws were already in. One bouldery section at the 4th draw, otherwise not too hard.
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Dim 28 Avr 2024 - Frankenjura Süd | ||||||
Altmühltal Kastlwand Kastlwand | ||||||
8+ Difficile | ★★★ Powerpudding - avec Klara R, Fabian Michel, Caroline de Groot | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Technical face climbing on small and very small pockets, sometimes almost nothing for the feet. Hard for the grade, but normal for the grade in Altmühltal.
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6+ Difficile | ★★ Kunigundenweg - avec Klara R, Fabian Michel, Caroline de Groot | ★ Bon | ||||
Tricky top section, used the right arete to chimney my way up. One or two small cams help.
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7- | ★★ Kastlweg - avec Klara R, Fabian Michel, Caroline de Groot | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Awesome route. Must do in this grade.
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8- Difficile | ★★ Götterdämmerung - avec Klara R, Fabian Michel, Caroline de Groot | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Pretty cool route with a huge variety of climbing styles. The slab in the middle remains the crux and can be climbed in many ways.
Unfortunately the bolting is scarce and especially before the first and 2nd bolt not recommended for people that don't feel comfortable on harder routes. |
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Dim 14 Avr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Kalte Wand | ||||||
8- | ★★ Cool Runnings - avec Geburtstagsgang | 20m, 7 | ★ Bon | |||
Solid and hard face / pocket climbing for the top three draws. Couldn't find the best ones in the first go.
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7+/8- Difficile | ★★ Schneekönigin — 2 essais - avec Geburtstagsgang | 21m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Had to rest twice when putting up the draws. It's tricky to find the best holds in the headwall slab. Very cool climb if you know them though!
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7 | ★★ Kalter König - avec Geburtstagsgang | 19m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Very nice climb. A bit uncomfortable clip of the 2nd bolt.
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8+/9- Difficile | ★★★ Like Ice in the Sunshine - avec Geburtstagsgang | 18m, 8 | ||||
The boulder moves at the bulge are pretty hard, couldn't climb all the moves.
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Sam 13 Avr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Treusteiner Wand | ||||||
8 | ★★ Fränkische Sulz'n - avec Geburtstagsgang | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Probably the best 8 at the wall. Everything's solid, even though it looks different from below. Must do.
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8+ Difficile | ★★ Durchriss - avec Geburtstagsgang | 25m | ||||
Could neither reach, nor clip the second bolt. Crazy hard moves.
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7- ~7 | ★★ Treusteiner Weg - avec Geburtstagsgang | 22m | ★ Bon | |||
A bit inhomogeneous, but good warmup.
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7+ | ★★ Back to the Beginning - avec Geburtstagsgang | 22m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice face climb with pockets and crimps.
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7+ Difficile | ★ Labium Majus Sinister - avec Geburtstagsgang | 12m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Scary moves in the slab, but managed when going to the right at the last bolt.
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Sam 6 Avr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Hanfplantage | ||||||
6+ ~7- | ★ Hafer-Nuss-Führe - avec Johannes Kuschke | 20m, 6 | ★ Bon | |||
Easy start with mostly big holds. Still the route is always vertical or overhanging, on top there's a harder section at the bulge. Quite hard for 6+. No one who's limit is around that grade should lead that route.
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Sam 6 Avr 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Rolandfels | ||||||
7+ | ★★ Jojo - avec Johannes Kuschke | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Also pretty cool pocket climbing, never too easy. Pumpy. Had to rest once.
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7+ Facile | ★★ Ronaldo - avec Johannes Kuschke | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
This one was a lot easier and relaxing than JoJo (7+). Smooth homogenous pocket climbing.
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8 | ★★ Omatag - avec Johannes Kuschke | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Single hard section at the bulge, from small crimps into a huge jug. Saw some guys climbing it and they left the draws. Lucky flash go, boulder moves are usually not my favorite.
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8+ ~9- | ★★ Carolin Reiber - avec Johannes Kuschke | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Severe power endurance section after 2/3rd of the route. There are actually enough handholds, but the non existing footholds make the moves super challenging. Could only climb the hardest section once with a number of high risk moves, didn't try a second time.
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7 | ★★ Kleine Menschen brauchen mehr Schlaf - avec Johannes Kuschke | 23m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Cleaned the route in toprope, never too hard. The start actually is the hardest. Nice line, sometimes pretty distanced bolting and people climb not too close to the bolts.
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Jeu 28 Mars 2024 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence 四方山 Square Mountain Brother's Cave | ||||||
5.12c | ★★★ Hanging in China - avec Joyu | 25m, 13 | ||||
Only climbed 2/3 of the route, probably up to the severe bouldery roof. Lowered for the pictures. 😅 Up to this point highly enjoyable and very steep climbing. One bolt is so rusty that I wouldn't take a fall on it, it was still ok to rest. Should be replaced.
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5.11c | ★★★ Trou Sec en Millieu Humide - avec Joyu | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Must do stalactite wonderland. After walking through the tufas, which is so much fun and super easy you do some steep tufa roof climbing for like 3 draws. So much fun.
Only the 4 bolts in the easy tufa part are rusty, when it gets harder you clip new glue in bolts (was very happy about that). |
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Jeu 28 Mars 2024 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence 四方山 Square Mountain Staircase Wall | ||||||
5.11a Difficile | ★★★ Pancake Flake - avec Joyu | 31m, 14 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Thought it's over after the flake, which was pretty easy because of the positive handholds. But there are more challenging parts higher up in the hand jam, crimps sections. Awesome longline.
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Jeu 28 Mars 2024 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence 大榕树 Banyan Tree | ||||||
5.12b Difficile | ★★★ Monkey Fur 猴毛 - avec Joyu | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
We gave it one go in the morning when the route was still in the shade, because it's supposed to be one of the best 12b in the area. Didn't try a 2nd time because the sun hit the wall.
And it is super good. Starts relatively easy in the tufa section, then some far moves and huge jugs. It's constantly overhanging, but your really feel it at the first sloper crux with bad footholds and far moves to the right. Big rest at the tufa. And then it's a almost not ending endurance battle without any property rest up to the top. Pretty challenging red point crux when your traverse to the left into the small "cave". It's very pumpy and you need a shitload of endurance to send this one if 12b is your limit. |
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Jeu 28 Mars 2024 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
大榕树-同门山地区 JinBao Confluence 四方山 Square Mountain Treasure Cave | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 园丁 Lawnmower Man - avec Joyu | 25m, 12 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
I live for this shit. If there's a god out there, he created this route. Climbing heaven in the stalactites part. Do it!
Cleaned it 2nd'ing to climb more routes on my last day in Yangshuo. |
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Mer 27 Mars 2024 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
遇龙河地区 YuLong River 大屋檐 Dag Crag | ||||||
5.12a | ★★★ 不坐竹筏 No Bamboo Rafting Today - avec Joyu | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Stealing Antonios comment, because he wrote it so nicely. Needed two go's here to check out the moves in the upper part. Half of the route up to the new anchor in the middle is like 5c, the harder stuff starts when it gets steeper. Unique route that you should do at least once in your life. Never climbed a traverse that exposed in such a easy grade.
The lower part is a slab that leads into a small overhanging first crux. Once you pass that, you can split your legs and rest while you prepare yourself for a super exposed traverse with nothing but air below you (and huge jugs). afterwards you cross onto a corner where you can not see the last bolt you clipped, and start going upward till the anchor. Vast variety of moves and pump management. Sweat was running down my back after this endurance piece, thanks to some rain and high humidity. |
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Mer 27 Mars 2024 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg The Northeast Face | ||||||
5.10b | ★★ Rooster Booster - avec Joyu | 31m, 14 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Pretty warmup. Long, and mostly jugs. Cool dihedral at the end.
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5.11a Facile | ★★★ Hanging in the Balance - avec Joyu | 22m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Some reachy moves, maybe easier for taller people. Only two draws harder, the rest a walk in the park.
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Mer 27 Mars 2024 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 鸡蛋山 The Egg Fantasy Area | ||||||
5.11b Facile | ★★★ Duck — 2 essais - avec Joyu | 24m, 11 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Nice face climb. Homogenous for around 5 draws. Started from the hole to left at the first draw, which was wrong. So lowered to the ground and did it 2nd (kind of onsight).
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Dim 24 Mars 2024 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
高田镇 GaoTian 雷劈山 Lei Pi Shan | ||||||
5.11d Facile | ★★ 燃烧 Crash and Burn — 2 essais - avec Stan, Gary | 25m, 9 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Beautiful route on the right side of lei pi Shan. Fell in the crux move over draw below the anchor in the onsight go. Easy in the 2nd go. Side pull cross to through to the tufa remains the crux.
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Dim 24 Mars 2024 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 瑞士墙 Swiss Wall 巧克力墙 Chocolate Side | ||||||
5.11a | ★★★ 旅游伙伴 The Traveling Alon - avec Stan, Gary | 32m, 14 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Starts very easy, until you arrive a short but beautiful face section. Afterwards easy on jugs. The last two bolts offer some cool exposed climbing in the headwall. Must do when you are here.
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Dim 24 Mars 2024 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
瑞士墙-酒瓶山地区 Corridor Entrance 瑞士墙 Swiss Wall 奶酪墙 Cheese Side | ||||||
5.11a ~5.10d | ★★★ Intestinal Torpedo - avec Stan, Gary | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Super fun 3D climb in the tunnel. You don't need to chimney climb anything. If you put your feet to the left and the right there's always a good jug for any 90% of the route. Super safely bolted as well. Crux is to get out of the tunnel and to the anchor. After the last huge jug you have to get on the ledge with some crimps and slopers. 🎈 Pretty easy for the grade, because it's only one hard section.
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5.10a | ★★ Lomito Complito - avec Stan, Gary | 27m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Only jugs except one move if you find all the good holds. Super warm and humid today.
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Ven 22 Mars 2024 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
白山地区 White Mountain Crags 白山 White Mountain | ||||||
5.10d | ★★ 石狗 Stone Dog - avec Stan | 24m, 11 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Beautiful climb with one harder single section around 1/3rd of the route, where you have to crimp the shit out of what you get and move to the next ledge. There's another short section (10b) in the middle with sidehold. Otherwise only beautiful jugs. You doing even feel how long the route is because the holds are so good.
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5.12b | ★★★ 阳朔旅馆 Yangshuo Hotel — 2 essais - avec Stan | 33m, 17 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Awesome long route through the slightly overhanging part of white mountain. Was able to climb the crux in the flash go, but didn't find a hold to clip. 2nd go all three cruxes worked well. Starts with a campus move at the overhanging bulge, left heel hook helped. Afterwards the beautiful traverse on not so good sloper crimps. Then some sustained jugs and sloper climbing up to the Yangshuo hotel, where you can have a nap.💞
You'll need it for the super slopey crux after the rest. Needed to climb three moves higher than in the flash go to clip (small spike on the left outside). Fight your way up afterwards through pumpy sections with good jugs in between. Must do if you can pass the campus move at the start. 🙏👌 |
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5.10b | ★★ 两把刷子 Talented - avec Stan | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Just a beautiful climb, all moves and holds are nice. Luckily it doesn't have many stars in the guidebook and is not so polished.
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Jeu 21 Mars 2024 - 阳朔 Yangshuo | ||||||
思龙地区 SiLong Crags 飞镖山 Spearhead | ||||||
5.11d ~5.12a | ★★★ Ssss - avec Stan, Amir | 16m, 9 | ||||
Preclipped the 4th draw from the 10b, but this route still remained a battle. Felt harder than the 12a "drop your yolk". Went up to the 3rd draw with a huge move into a finger jam, but clipping from that position would be uncomfortable. Then max power while smearing on the face. The tufa only has one jug, then there's still another 6-8 m of tricky pumpy climbing on the arete. Jugs only at the last bolt.
Very cool moves, and except the clip of the 3rd bolt totally recommendable. |
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5.12a ~5.11d | ★★ 丢掉蛋黄 Drop your Yolk — 2 essais - avec Stan, Amir | 25m, 13 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Really cool one. Couldn't clip the last draw in my onsight go. Went smooth in the second go. Up to the middle part relatively easy, then a short pumpy section via the tufa to get to a big rest. The last two draws are the hardest with a crimpy face section before the anchor.
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5.10d Facile | ★★★ 金银珠宝 Precious Gem - avec Stan, Amir | 25m, 13 | ★★★ Classique | |||
This route feels like a 6a gym climb up to the ledge
Huge hand and footholds in a constantly overhanging wall make this route for sure a precious gem. Just three harder moves at the tufa, which don't make this route a 10d.
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5.10b | ★★ 长沙公主 Changsha Princess - avec Stan, Amir | 16m, 9 | ★ Bon | |||
Good warmup, starts easy and finishes in a dihedral with less holds.
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Mar 19 Mars 2024 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
守护者山谷 The Guardian Valley 死亡天文台 Die Sternwarte | ||||||
5.11a Difficile | ★★★ Total Eclipse - avec Yvonne Ho | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
This is the best route I climbed in Liming. More people shouldn't be so lazy and carry their shit up to this area. The path isn't visible anymore, but it's worth it.
Laybacked most of the lower flake, with a right foot jam. At the end of the flake went into the crack, fist,wide until you can climb the right and left crack simultaneously. Now you can either follow the left crack, which is pure fun and beautiful it widens up from small hands to hands and goes up to the anchor with pure joy. Steeeeep, and mostly hand jam jugs, a small pod to sit and enjoy the view. Unbelievable good. The right crack felt harder and was much smaller in general, needed to fight a lot more to get up. But isn't harder than the lower section, so the grade doesn't change. |
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5.11a Difficile | ★★★ Total Eclipse - avec Yvonne Ho | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Aided up the wide section, because it was hard and we didn't have enough big gear. Set up a toprope.
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Mar 19 Mars 2024 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
守护者山谷 The Guardian Valley 守护者 The Guardian | ||||||
5.8 | Valley of the Kings - avec Yvonne Ho | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Cleaned the first pitch. It's a bit sandy and the climbing is short. People don't come up here for this route.
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5.10b |
★★ Brazen Hussie P1
- avec
Yvonne Ho
1
5.10b
| 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Only did the first pitch, because we didn't have big gear. Up to the first anchor very good crack climb with a overhanging hands bulge and a wide section after.
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5.10a | ★★ Sahara - avec Yvonne Ho | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
This route is very good for this grade. Nice varied climbing, starts wide, the crux follows with a off finger/weird han jam section and gets easier to the top with some nice features in the face. The view on top is fabulous from up here.
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Dim 17 Mars 2024 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 白垩纪区 Cretaceous Area | ||||||
5.10d Difficile |
★★★ Soul’s Awakening
- avec
Jerry zhong
1
5.9
28
grimpé en tête par
Jerry zhong
See some days before. Best pitch in the 5.9 grade in liming.
2
5.10a
8
grimpé en tête par
Jerry zhong
5 bolts on 5 meters, interesting but not too hard. Normal face climbing.
3
5.9
15
grimpé en tête par
Jerry zhong
Jerry traversed to the left (A0 or 5.11 slab free) and we made our way up the hands/small hands corner to reach the anchor.
4
5.10d
40
grimpé en tête par
Jerry zhong
Money pitch. Great start of the pitch in the steep corner with hands and some wider sections, that are easy to climb because of the structures outside of the crack. Reaching the first rappel Station was a bit tricky, less footholds outside of the crack. Then it gets a lot wider and you have to chicken wing your way up. The hardest section (1-2m) is protected with a bolt. For me the OW section was pretty though, but somehow managed to crawl up. Fun pitch.
5
5.10b
30
grimpé en tête par
Jerry zhong
Another fun pitch that you should do when you're up here. Feels most of the time like a chimney slab with good jams in the crack. Very interesting climbing.
6
5.7
20
grimpé en tête par
Jerry zhong
Not sure if we went all the way up, it's super dirty and chossy. The chimney slab continues without any place for protection, and it gets sandy. Rappelling earlier is recommended. | 140m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Classic multi pitch up here with great views over the valley. P1 and 4 are extraordinary good.
We linked p1+2+3 (42m) and p5+6. Three rappels with a 80m rope and 2m downclimbing when rappelling from P3 to the ground. Thanks to my ropegun Jerry. |
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Ven 15 Mars 2024 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 白垩纪区 Cretaceous Area | ||||||
5.9 Difficile |
★★★ Soul’s Awakening P1
- avec
Yvonne Ho
1
5.9
28
| 28m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Climbed the 1st pitch of this route when we were looking for winds of the valley. Crack climbing in this grade cannot be better. Cool corner climb with varying sizes from small hands to fist, and one wide section after the two bolts.
The two bolts are set perfectly, because the crack opens up to the back and it's not possible to put a 5 through the slot between the wall and the crack. |
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5.10+ | ★★★ Wind of the Valley - avec Yvonne Ho | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Endurance combat at the end of day. Very happy to onsight this one, even though I had less 3s than in the guidebook recommended. Needed to organize a lot to have proper gear for each section. Starts with 2s and 3s, climbed most of the route as a mix of layback / hand jam / right foot jam / left foot against the wall and fired up as fast as possible. The tree saved my life. And before the anchor every extremity was shaking, but managed to clip the anchor. Must do route. 👐
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Ven 15 Mars 2024 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
晚餐岩 Dinner Wall 洞区 Cave Area | ||||||
5.8 Difficile | ★★ Sword Ladder - avec Yvonne Ho | 60m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Climbs better than it looks. Several shorter sections with big rests in between.
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5.10c | ★★ Sandy - avec Yvonne Ho | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Good climb, indeed it's Sandy. Needed to have one rest, but could climb every move. Pretty though too get through the lower part, juggy and cool at the top.
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Jeu 14 Mars 2024 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.10+ ~5.11- | ★★ Faraway Corner | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Hell of a laybacking route. At the start there's a small stone with the name of the route and an 11a. I would agree to the stone. Pretty pumpy route. Climbed it in toprope at the end of the day.
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5.10a Difficile | ★★ Sandworm - avec Yvonne Ho, Munan Gong | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Found a toprope and took the chance. Fun route. Starts with small hands to hands. Afterwards in the steeper section mostly big hands and fist jams. Thought it was hard for the grade.
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5.10c | ★★ Morass - avec Yvonne Ho, Munan Gong | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Some gear was preplaced, only added some pieces. Cool route with different styles, starts with some laybacking which is probably the most strenuous part. Afterwards you only have to do some moves into you always reach a good rest.
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5.11- | ★★ Zhoulei's Flake - avec Yvonne Ho, Munan Gong | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Bring one 4 for the first protection, one 0.75 and small stuff for the rest. The hardest is the lower wide crack, gets easier in the upper section. Happy about this onsight.
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5.11 | ★★ Index 5.11 — 3 essais - avec Yvonne Ho, Munan Gong | 11m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Pretty technical route that starts with the crux at the first bolt. Somehow crawl up left of the arete with one good crimp and another very small hold that is mostly used for balance. High right heel hook on the next good foothold helps to keep the hip close to the wall. After the first bolt another three of nice face climbing in the 5.10 range.
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5.9 |
★★ Screaming at the Moon P1
- avec
Yvonne Ho
1
5.9
| 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Good warmup. Hands, a bit of layback and jugs.
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Mar 12 Mars 2024 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 松顶拱壁区 Pinecrest Buttress | ||||||
5.10+ | ★★ Boy with a Coin - avec Munan Gong | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
The lower part is never the too hard, nix of hands and ow corner. The crux is the overhanging part, which I climbed with a double hand stack while pushing the body in the corner. Found out that people climb this one with a knee bar in the crack as well. Good fun.
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5.9 | ★★★ The Great Owl - avec Munan Gong | 28m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Tricky start to get into the route. Afterwards very cool splitter. Mostly hands. Must do.
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5.10+ | ★★★ Scarface 2 - avec Munan Gong | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Funny splitter with variable sizes. Starts with a overhanging 2 hands section, then some ow, and goes up to the anchor with a mix of 3s down to 1s. Not as steep and pumpy as the original Scarface in Indian Creek, but also a lot of fun.
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Mar 12 Mars 2024 - 黎明 Liming | ||||||
傈僳区 Lisu 立柱区 Pillars Area | ||||||
5.9 | ★★ Staircase of the Elves - avec Munan Gong | 10m | ★ Bon | |||
Nice mix of fist, hands and small hands. Too short 😍
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5.9 | Industrial Lover - avec Munan Gong | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Wide start is the hardest.
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Dim 10 Mars 2024 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
团结街道 小墨雨洞 Xiao Mo Yu Cave | ||||||
5.10d Difficile | ★★ Million Ma 百万马力 - avec Munan Gong | 20m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Awesome steep fun in the roof. Start is a bit tricky and one harder section before you get into the horizontal roof part. Great fun in this grade.
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5.12b Difficile | ★★ Breakwater - avec Munan Gong | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Pretty hard for the grade. The route consists of two significant boulder moves. Dynamic far move to a jug on the 2nd bolt and a section after 2/3rd at the tufa. Right kneebar, left hand to the broken tufa undercling and up to the big hole that is not as good as it looks. Getting to the anchor is also very trick and a bit creepy.
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5.12a | ★★ Star Tears 流星雨 — 2 essais - avec Munan Gong | 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Got the beta from a local. Slipped on the polished footholds in the 1st go. Sent the crux relatively stable in the 2nd go. From the left fingerpocket into the right Gaston, move up with the left hand to a undercling pinch, right foot dropknee on the polished knob, up to the crimp. Afterwards steep and overhanging for 15m but there's always a good rest when you need it. Mostly endurance when you sent the crux at bolt 4.
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5.10d ~5.10c | ★★ Big Beginner - avec Munan Gong | 18m, 7 | ★ Bon | |||
Nice warm-up route and the longest on the right outside wall. Easier than any 10d in the cave.
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Sam 9 Mars 2024 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
Western Hill 西山 猫头鹰岩 Low Area | ||||||
5.11a | ★★ 迁移 Migration - avec Munan | 13m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Single hard section from the undercling, some bad pockets to better holds. Otherwise relatively easy face climbing on pockets and jugs.
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5.12a Facile | ★★ 伶仃 Ling ding - avec Munan Gong | 16m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Pretty technical fight between the two tufas. Then some pumpy moves and it's over. Was lucky to onsight this one. Nice wall.
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5.9 | ★ 喜羊羊 Happy goat - avec Munan Gong | 25m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Feels like Frankenjura in unpolished. Short chimney and then vertical wall with jugs.
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5.10a | ★★ 周四翘班 Thursday for you - avec Munan | 27m, 9 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Sweet warmup, many jugs. Every route at this wall had great features. Pockets, jugs, crimps. Made for climbing.
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Sam 9 Mars 2024 - 昆明 Kunming | ||||||
Western Hill 西山 观海阁岩 High Area | ||||||
5.11a Facile | ★★★ 醉汉的归宿 The home of drunker - avec Munan | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classique | |||
This one's also pretty cool, but not as good as the left 11a (reliable). Short tricky sections that always end in huge jugs, cool moves in general.
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5.11a Facile | ★★ 靠谱不靠谱 Reliable or not - avec Munan | 26m, 13 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Pure fun. Must do. Maybe the best 11 up here.
Starts with a tricky face climb, afterwards a easy but huge tufa, a quick overhanging face section with endless holds and ends with another steep and juggy tufa section. Would climb this one everyday if it would be in my backyard. |