Ascensions dans World par Sergey Komarov

Took a few attempts, going for the wrong hands and feet. I forgot how slippery the feet at Hammond are.

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#eliminate

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Linkup of Blue Route and second pitch of The Chimney, as a single pitch.

Close - didn't quite latch the last hold.

Right foot popped and dabbed on flash go. Restarted.

???

Sit start

Felt like actual progress.

Send.

Foot slipped but recovered.

Fell going to hueco. Right heel wasn't engaged correctly.

Did first moves and crux to warm up.

Just one attempt today. Was good!

Third send attempt.

Last go of the day.

Shouldn't have even tried, didn't make it far enough to try crux.

Second send attempt.

Went very well up to the crux deapoint. I was surprised to find myself stable enough to readjust the right heel nicely on the crimpiest part of the hold. As on the previous attempt, I fell after touching the hold. I felt that I applied better force through the heel, but it wasn't quite enough.

Right knee/iliotibial band was feeling well used after this. Fatigue there seems to be the limiting factor.

Repeat with new heel hook beta. Feels less marginal.

Repeat with old beta.

Warming up, remembering subtle beta.

Rehearsed the first couple of moves. There is a very small but sharp left foothold on the face, above the more obvious low one. It works surprisingly well, all the way to the sidepull.

Also rehearsed transition from sidepull to undercling. Last session's heel hook still seems good.

Also linked all moves from third hand move through the crux to wide right foot in the top out.

First send attempt.

Went very well up to the sidepull.

I confused some feet after getting the sidepull. This caused me to make too many moves and waste energy.

Recovered enough to attempt the crux deapoint. Fell after touching the hold. This was likely due to some combination of sagging hips and insufficient force through the heel.

???????

Worked out much better beta for moves into crux.

Did all the moves in 3 overlapping sections.

Tried working this after sending Loadies, but fingers didn't even want to pull on.

This was supposed to be a warm-up, but was too cold - it was in the shade.

Four tries today. Each was good - the first three went from the ground to dyno, but couldn't latch the edge.

The last go almost felt easy - everything just fell into place for a smooth send. Wasn't even out of breath at the top.

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Fun!

Thin at the top.

No grade given on thecrag. Difficulty felt similar to the 5.9 next door.

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Practicing shenanigans

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Practicing shenanigans

5.10a near the right of Sector Local, with at least one more route to the right. Started on a large protruding jug.

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