Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mer 29 Déc 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Thunder Head Twist Top Wall | ||||||
14 |
Milk Crates, Bats And Spiders
![]() | 25m | ||||
19 |
★★ Amber Nectar
![]() | 25m | ||||
Dim 8 Août 2021 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
Gibraltar Peak No Glove | ||||||
18 |
★★ No Glove No Love
![]() | 25m, 3 | ||||
Dim 1 Août 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Peristalsis Area | ||||||
16 |
★★ Peristalsis
![]() | 40m | ||||
In howling wind.
|
||||||
Sam 31 Juil 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area | ||||||
16 |
★ Whistle
![]() | 15m | ||||
16 |
★ Grey
![]() | 15m | ||||
Sam 31 Juil 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | ||||||
19 |
★★ Real Men Have Man Boobs
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lots of good moves if you're into this kind of route!
|
||||||
Sam 31 Juil 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Superliner Area | ||||||
19 |
★★ Superliner
![]() | 35m, 7 | ||||
Dim 20 Juin 2021 - Pierce's Creek | ||||||
Eastern Area Matricide | ||||||
20 |
★★ Matricide
![]() | 12m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Super line and climbing with 2min access. Fun in the winter sun out of the wind, flocks of yellow tailed black cockatoo's, and the view from the top of the boulder in the late afternoon is sensational. The climbs at Pierces Creek really should be more popular than they are as they are total class!
|
||||||
Lun 14 Juin 2021 - New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||||||
Hylands Lookout South-Western side Liquidity Wall | ||||||
16 |
★★ Alien Crack
![]() | 20m, 2 | ||||
Dim 13 Juin 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Thunder Head Roy's Wall | ||||||
13 |
★ Beware The Bleary Eyed Dragon
![]() | 20m | ||||
Sam 12 Juin 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | ||||||
20 |
★★★ Bad Luck Streak
![]() | 30m | ||||
Dim 6 Juin 2021 - Pierce's Creek | ||||||
Eastern Area Blackwater | ||||||
21 |
★★ Mercenary Swine
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Excellent climbing! Used a horizontal knee bar with my right leg across to the left arete below the fingers section to make the crux sequence less sketchy. While lowering off I tested how hard I could use the knee bar - it's possible to take both hands off but I reckon you'd want to use a knee bar pad if you were serious about a no hand rest!
We accidentally took the double length sling from the top anchor when abseiling off - it's under a rock at the base of the route.
|
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Dim 30 Mai 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | ||||||
21 |
★★★ The Janicepts
![]() | 27m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Still a great climb. After all the offwidthing we've been doing I found a knee lock 3/4 way up which provided a great no hands rest...the top thinner crack section is so much easier when not pumped stupid!
|
||||||
Dim 30 Mai 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
15 15 R |
★ Chastity
![]() | 14m | ||||
13 |
★ Charity
![]() | 14m | ||||
15 |
★★ Hope
![]() | 15m | ||||
Dim 30 Mai 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
19 |
★★ Psychotic
![]() | 25m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Sam 29 Mai 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Memory Lane | ||||||
19 |
★ Gentlemen, Start Your Engines
![]() | 40m, 9 | ★ Bon | |||
17 |
★★★ Interstate 31
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Sam 29 Mai 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County The 39 Steps | ||||||
16 18 |
★ High Plains Drifter
![]() | 35m | ★ Bon | |||
I think this route is misunderstood and perhaps that is why it gets some bad reviews and inflated grade - for some it seems that expectation does not meet reality!
This is a naturally protected route - wires and cams. I'm not sure from where people get the idea that it should be bolted or is missing bolts, or is grade 18. The printed guides for the past 40 yrs have it being listed as a natural gear grade 16 ('A Climbers Guide to the Northern Hartley Valley, Penney 1981, The Rock magazine insert 'The Cosmic County Guide' Penney 1988, 'Rockclimbs of the Upper Blue Mountains' SRC circa 1994, 'Blue Mountains Climbing' Carter 2015).
If you go up without gear anticipating bolts then perhaps expect a scary hard time. Take the appropriate gear with you and have your trad head screwed on and then experience the route for what it is "An exceptionally pleasant route up a fine black wall. Fortunately its quite a lot easier than it appears" (Penney, 1981). Personally I found the route to thread it's way up a thin wall linking good move sequences and gear placements - and that it is delicious in it's uniqueness compared to the bolted lines that tease to the right and left.
|
||||||
Dim 23 Mai 2021 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
White Horse Rocks | ||||||
18 |
★ Dragon
![]() | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
Glad I toproped it as there are some sizable audible exofoliation flakes which could cause concern to place gear on. Otherwise, a good range of knee locks, hand/fist stacks, butterfly jams and fisting.
|
||||||
20 |
★★ Blue Wind
![]() | 23m | ★★★ Classique | |||
A brilliant route providing plum vertical stamina crack climbing. Had to fight for it. A bit of laybacking, fingerlocks, hand jams etc. Some really good wire and cam placements, I didn't use anything larger than Gold, and sure wish I'd taken a few more small cams. The bush in the photo was burnt and dead and has been mostly removed making for a more aesthetic and cleaner route. Also gave it a quick brush.
|
||||||
Dim 9 Mai 2021 - Tidbinbilla | ||||||
19 |
★★ Unnatural Acts
![]() | 15m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Action packed with a lot of variety...well worth the trip.
|
||||||
17 |
Milk Teeth
![]() | 10m | Dans la moyenne | |||
The obvious triangle flake thing moves a little bit which is a bit disconcerting.
|
||||||
Sam 8 Mai 2021 - Tidbinbilla | ||||||
19 |
★★ Pure Poison
![]() | 10m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Crruxy start on finger jams, through hands to fists. Cams to #4, and also used a #9 DMM offset nut at the start as it didn't block the finger jams.
|
||||||
16 |
★ Abattoir
![]() | 7m | ★ Bon | |||
Thin hands - cams 0.75 to 2.
|
||||||
Dim 2 Mai 2021 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
White Horse Rocks | ||||||
17 |
★★ Cratercritter
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Excellent splitter offwidth into a wider layback. We tried it a couple of weeks ago but had no idea how to do hand/fist stacks nor knee locks, nor did we have gear big enough to make the wide second half a sane prospect.
This time, after reading the 'hand/fist offwidth' section of Peter Whittaker's 'Crack Climbing', having bought back my two Valley Giants (VG) I'd previously sold, plus judicious taping of hands and left knee I was set and got it first go. Gear is big to humungous - #4, 2 x #5, #6, VG#9 and VG#12! A 240cm sling is also handy to loop the large block 3/4 way up.
As granite goes, this is smooth sided and an excellent climb to learn offwidthing on. A top rope using a second rope to get the anchor over the edge can easily be setup using the ring bolts above 'Black Satin Lingerie'. The walk in is about 40 minutes.
|
||||||
Ven 30 Avr 2021 - Pierce's Creek | ||||||
Eastern Area Scone Rock | ||||||
9 |
★ Baker's Dozen
![]() | 8m | ||||
Fun - did three different versions of various widths from narrow squeeze to medium chimney
|
||||||
8 |
★★ Baker's Delight
![]() | 6m | ||||
18 |
Screetoes
![]() | 12m | ||||
Removed a few flakes en-route so it should climb a bit nicer now.
|
||||||
16 |
★ Gripped Off Me Scon
![]() | 10m | ||||
13 |
★ Puffed pastry
![]() | 5m | ||||
Removed a few flakes from the wall to the immediate right so it should climb a bit nicer now.
|
||||||
Dim 25 Avr 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Adults Only Cave | ||||||
20 |
★★★ Haystack Madness
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Mad looking route with mad climbing, overhanging about 8m in 30m! Absolutely must do if you're into crack climbing and wading up steep rock. Heel hooks, knee bars, a lie down rest and lots and lots of jams! Used a .75 and 1 at the start, then another 3 #1s, 3 #2s, 1 #3 and 1 #4. Anchors are all the way at the top after the chimney and are on the left.
|
||||||
Dim 25 Avr 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Rod's Ravine | ||||||
16 |
★★ The Friendly Jackal
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Cool climb - well worth it. Laybacks, underclings, honeycomb jugs and great gear.
|
||||||
Sam 24 Avr 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
18 |
★★★ The Eternity
![]() | 22m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
A top lead by Tracy - making it all look easy with great crack climbing technique!
|
||||||
18 |
★ Joslab
![]() | 23m, 3 | Dans la moyenne | |||
A set of Totems and a couple of bolt plates and your away. Typical BM crux - feet up, crank and lock on edge...reach...and you've done it.
|
||||||
Sam 24 Avr 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | ||||||
15 |
★★★ Tombstone Wall
![]() | 30m, 3 | ★★★ Classique | |||
17 |
★★★ Flake Crack
![]() | 53m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Dim 18 Avr 2021 - Pierce's Creek | ||||||
Eastern Area Matricide | ||||||
19 |
★★ Tarred and Feathered
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great line, good climbing and solid gear.
|
||||||
Lun 12 Avr 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County The 39 Steps | ||||||
22 |
★★ Incandescence
![]() | 25m | ||||
Decades ago...
|
||||||
17 |
★ Graffiti Crimes
![]() | 40m | ||||
Decades ago...
|
||||||
21 |
★★ Comfortably Numb
![]() | 25m, 3 | ||||
Decades ago...
|
||||||
21 21 R |
★★★ Fantastic Voyage
![]() | 26m, 2 | ||||
Decades ago...
|
||||||
Lun 12 Avr 2021 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Bells Line of Road & Chifley Rd Cosmic County Area Cosmic County Greenhouse Gully | ||||||
21 21 R |
★ Ground Effect
![]() | 30m | ||||
Decades ago...
|
||||||
Dim 11 Avr 2021 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
Snake Rock The Buttresss | ||||||
20 |
★★ Snake-in-the-Grass
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
18 |
★ One Eyed Trousersnake
![]() | 10m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Froggatt Edge | ||||||
Chequers Buttress Area | ||||||
HVS 5a HVS 5a |
★★★ Chequers Buttress
![]() | 14m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
HVS 5c HVS 5c |
★★ Chequers Crack
![]() | 12m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Froggatt Edge | ||||||
Brown's Eliminate Area | ||||||
E2 5b E2 5b |
★★ Brown's Eliminate
![]() | 16m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Froggatt Edge | ||||||
Downhill Racer Area | ||||||
E3 5c E3 5c |
★★ Long Johns Slab
![]() | 14m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
E4 6a E4 6a |
★★★ Downhill Racer
![]() | 16m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
S 4a S 4a |
★ Allen's Slab
![]() | 16m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Froggatt Edge | ||||||
The Pinnacle & Sickle Buttress | ||||||
HVS 5a HVS 5a |
★★★ Valkyrie
![]() | 20m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
E4 6b E4 6b |
★★ Oedipus Ring Your Mother
![]() | 8m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Froggatt Edge | ||||||
Three Pebble Slab Area | ||||||
HVS 5a HVS 5a |
★★★ Three Pebble Slab
![]() | 12m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Froggatt Edge | ||||||
Tody's Wall | ||||||
HVS 5a HVS 5a |
★★★ Tody's Wall
![]() | 18m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
HS 4c HS 4c |
★★ Silver Crack
![]() | 10m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Froggatt Edge | ||||||
Beau Geste to Terrace Crack | ||||||
VS 4c VS 4c |
★★ Hawk's Nest Crack
![]() | 12m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
S 4a S 4a |
★★ Swimmer's Chimney
![]() | 12m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Froggatt Edge | ||||||
Sunset Slab Area | ||||||
HVS 4c HVS 4c |
★★★ Sunset Slab
![]() | 12m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Millstone Edge | ||||||
The Embankment | ||||||
VS 4c VS 4c |
★★ Embankment 2
![]() | 30m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
E3 5c E3 5c |
★★★ Time For Tea
![]() | 20m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Millstone Edge | ||||||
Keyhole Cave | ||||||
E2 5c E2 5c |
★★★ Regent Street
![]() | 22m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Burbage Valley | ||||||
Burbage South The North Quarry | ||||||
5b E2 5b |
★★★ Zeus
![]() | 12m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
4b VS 4b |
★★ Fox House Flake
![]() | 14m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
5b E1 5b |
★★★ Millwheel Wall
![]() | 12m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Burbage Valley | ||||||
Burbage South David & Goliath | ||||||
5b VS 5b |
★ Saul
![]() | 10m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
4c HVS 4c |
★★★ David
![]() | 10m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Burbage Valley | ||||||
Burbage South Byne's Crack Area | ||||||
VS 4b VS 4b |
★★ Byne's Crack
![]() | 14m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
E5 6a E5 6a |
★★★ The Knock
![]() | |||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Burbage Valley | ||||||
Burbage South The Boggart | ||||||
E2 6b E2 6b |
★★ The Boggart
![]() | 14m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
VS 4c VS 4c |
★★ Roof Route
![]() | 8m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
S 4a S 4a |
★ Lethargic Arete
![]() | 8m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
HS 4c HS 4c |
★ Tower Climb
![]() | 12m | ||||
Circa 1990
|
||||||
Lun 5 Avr 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Centurion Area | ||||||
17 |
★★ Oarsome
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Fantastic location and climbing. Highly recommended!
|
||||||
17 |
★★ Oarsome
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Fantastic location and climbing. Highly recommended!
|
||||||
Lun 5 Avr 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Mild West Kwortzkliff | ||||||
15 |
Flextime
![]() | 10m | ★ Bon | |||
Bit greasy feeling. Watched someone catch a marlin off the Torpedo Tubes while belaying which was cool. Amazing to see the big fish do runs and leaps out of the water!
|
||||||
Lun 5 Avr 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Mild West Slash Wall | ||||||
14 |
★ Slash
![]() | 10m | Dans la moyenne | |||
17 |
★★ Second Degree Burn
![]() | 10m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Dim 4 Avr 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
17 |
★★★ Grey Mist
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
It's become almosr polished in the 10 or so years since I last did it! Great gear and nice moves.
|
||||||
19 |
★★ Windjammer
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice to revist this great crack after a couple of decades. This time with a quadruple rack...rather than a single rack...everything felt more sane!
|
||||||
19 |
★ Jaws
![]() | 32m | ★ Bon | |||
Fun to do cross body jams up near the top...right hand in left crack and left hand in the corner crack...weird technique that worked for me.
|
||||||
Sam 3 Avr 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
18 |
★★ Montezuma
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Amazing line and great trad climbing! Highly recommended if you're into this kind of route. Loads of gear so that aint the issue....!
|
||||||
16 |
★★ Man Overboard
![]() | 26m | ||||
Nice lead by Tracy!
|
||||||
Ven 2 Avr 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area | ||||||
17 |
★★ Neptune
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Not what I was expecting but fun all the same. A gold and red cam in the horizontal near the overlap, and the rest is bolts (x5).
|
||||||
15 |
★ Test
![]() | 15m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Dim 28 Mars 2021 - Mt Coree area | ||||||
Mount Coree Bogong Buttress | ||||||
16 |
★★ Bogong Rising
![]() | 25m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
Good position. Would be a suitable candidate for double ropes, but 4-5 long slings keep the drag down if using a single. We also did a lap of the bolted arete to the right that goes up to the same anchor as BR. Good climbing - maybe 14?
|
||||||
Mer 17 Mars 2021 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
Snake Rock Upper Tier | ||||||
18 |
★ Twin Set
![]() | 7m | ★ Bon | |||
If only it were another 30m or more long!
|
||||||
Dim 7 Mars 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Centurion Area | ||||||
15 |
★★ Impact Zone
![]() | 10m | ★★ Excellent | |||
16 |
★★ Centurion
![]() | 10m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Sam 6 Mars 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Bayside The Yardarm | ||||||
14 |
★★ Over the Yardarm
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lovely!
|
||||||
14 |
★★ Urban Spaceman
![]() | 27m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Good
|
||||||
Sam 6 Mars 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Thunder Head Tequilla Sunrise | ||||||
17 |
★★ The Tempest
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great looking and climbing!
|
||||||
Sam 6 Mars 2021 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Thunder Head Solstice Wall | ||||||
15 |
★ Over The Moon
![]() | 15m, 5 | ||||
Mer 17 Fév 2021 - Canberra | ||||||
Murrumbidgee River Kambah Rocks | ||||||
18 |
★ Silent Running
![]() | 13m, 1 | ||||
Mer 10 Fév 2021 - Queanbeyan area | ||||||
White Rocks | ||||||
10 |
★ Intro RH Variant Finish (Climb A RH Variant Finish)
![]() | 14m | ||||
18 |
★ The Slab
![]() | 15m, 3 | ||||
19 |
★ The Slab LH Variant Start
![]() | 15m, 3 | ||||
13 |
★ Cave Crack
![]() | 16m |