Evaluation | Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Falaise | Qualité | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2603
points
| 9- | ★★★ Minnerisset - avec Aniek | 28m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 20 Oct. 2020 | |||
30m of surprisingly good hand jams split by 2 distinct crux sections. Had no business being up there, just dabbled while the strong kid rested. All moves go; Linking was hilariously heavy. Fun to touch real climbing
|
|||||||||
2423
points
| 7+ | ★★★ Den Siste Sommeren - avec Alexander | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 23 Juin 2021 | |||
Seemed like the appropriate time to finally tick this. Super nice crack climbing. Pitch 2 is mega with a couple of really cool boulder problems. Protects well. Carried a 0.2 & triples in 0.3-0.4 but didn´t place them.
Standard Lofoten rack works fine.
|
|||||||||
2416
points
| 7+ | ★★★ One hundred years later - avec Sofie | 600m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 1 Juin 2021 | |||
Sustained, varied climbing with just the right amount of runouts to keep things safe but spicy. The setting is out of this world. One of the very best I´ve climbed in Norway.
|
|||||||||
2390
points
| 25 | ★★★ Rose Pink Cadillac Direct - avec Henry | 20m, 3 | Mount Wellington | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 16 Jan 2024 | |||
Amazing line. Sustained. Takes .2 to .5
|
|||||||||
2389
points
| 25 |
★★★ The Free Route P2
- avec
Henry, Pat
2
25
40m
| 40m, 8 | Fortescue Bay | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 12 Jan 2024 | |||
2365
points
| 7 | ★★★ Ninjarisset - avec Sara S | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Mar 28 Juin 2022 | ||||
2315
points
| 7- A0 | FA ★ Joika Raiders - avec Christoffer Martinsen | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Lun 31 Juil 2023 | ||||
2313
points
| 7- ~6- | ★★ The King Has Spoken - avec Pat | 600m | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Mer 26 Juil 2023 | |||
Rockfax topo & description were good. Thought maybe bit nicer than Celebrian but definitely no classic. Perhaps something was lost in translation for German to Norwegian grades. Taking 3 full grades off each pitch seemed about right
|
|||||||||
2274
points
| 8- | ★★★ Lofoten reality - avec Pat | 160m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 30 Juil 2023 | |||
Surprised by how good the other pitches were. One of Lofoten´s best. #4 handy for both roof pitches
|
|||||||||
2269
points
| 7 R - X | ★★★ Storpillaren - avec Ada, Ingrid V | 620m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 15 Août 2021 | |||
It was hard. Suggested rack was a 0.1 micro cam, doubles in black totem to #3 plus a #4. Could get away with less, but was happy to have them all.
|
|||||||||
2267
points
| 7 | ★★★ Skyvandraren - avec Fanny, Ada | Salten | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 7 Août 2021 | ||||
2250
points
| 8 | ★★★ Stålormsrisset - avec Karantene livet | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Dim 4 Juil 2021 | ||||
Super nice steep climbing with cool movement. Spent 4 rope solo sessions working it. Top 2/3 is fine but initial sequence of moves to establish in the flared jam is right at my limit. Taller friends can skip this sequence & just jam. Need be stronger to make plugging gear at the start feel more secure (the pro is good, the climber is weak).
|
|||||||||
2244
points
| 7- | ★★★ Melange - avec Sofie | 18m | Bohuslän | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 13 Mai 2022 | |||
2244
points
| 7 | ★★ Lay-bye Layback - avec Sofie | 15m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mar 25 Mai 2021 | |||
Climbs nicer than it looks.
|
|||||||||
2244
points
| 24 | ★★★ Deep Play - avec Henry, Pat | 20m, 6 | Fortescue Bay | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 12 Jan 2024 | |||
2244
points
| 7- | ★★★ Eldfågeln - avec Sofie | 22m | Bohuslän | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 12 Mai 2022 | |||
Worth the approach. Take plenty of micro nuts.
|
|||||||||
2243
points
| 24 | ★★★ Heat Of The Night - avec Emily | 25m | Freycinet National Park | ★★ Excellent | Dim 7 Jan 2024 | |||
Nice route. Learnt a new word. Spooge. Note to self: spooge bad
|
|||||||||
2238
points
| 7- | ★★★ Granitbiten - avec Kjetil | 25m | Bohuslän | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 23 Avr 2022 | |||
Can’t think of a better finger crack at the grade. Beautiful climbing
|
|||||||||
2224
points
| 7+/8- | ★★★ La Vida Joika - avec Pat | 100m, 10 | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mar 25 Juil 2023 | |||
First 2 pitches were great, it was nice saving #4s for second half of the OW. The bolted last pitch was a bit gross. Recommend skipping that & rapping from P2
|
|||||||||
2174
points
| 7 | ★★ Førstereisgutten - avec Kjetil | 95m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Dim 4 Oct. 2020 | |||
Nice climbing. The crux protects well with small wires (or black totem). A great option for busy days at Gandalf
|
|||||||||
2163
points
| 7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje - avec Karl Olof Hallberg | 15m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 27 Août 2020 | |||
With a pre-placed piece. Great route
|
|||||||||
2140
points
| 20 | ★★★ Airbourne - avec The Condawg | 50m, 5 | Mt Blackwood Summit | ★★ Excellent | Ven 23 Fév 2024 | |||
2096
points
| 7- | ★★★ Jediriddarane kjem attende - avec Fanny, Ada | 290m | Salten | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 5 Août 2021 | |||
2081
points
| 6b+ | ★★★ Unkown West face corner & cracks - avec Kjetil | 400m | Karavshin | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 18 Août 2022 | |||
Good rock, great climbing. Shame about all the bolts
|
|||||||||
2077
points
| 8- | ★★★ Huggormen - avec Sara M. | 30m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 14 Oct. 2021 | |||
Eventually figured out midget beta for the crux after multiple sessions. Not fast enough thou before winter hit. Favourite line at the cliff!
|
|||||||||
2077
points
| 6b+ | ★★★ The missing mountain - avec Fanny, Kjetil | 600m | Karavshin | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 4 Août 2022 | |||
2072
points
| 7- ~6+ | ★★★ Fire forsøk - avec Sofie | 80m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Lun 17 Mai 2021 | |||
The crag classic with P1/2 linked? So goood!
|
|||||||||
2063
points
| 7 | FA ★★★ Running for Teo - avec Vegard With Stennes | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Mer 2 Oct. 2019 | |||
2061
points
| 7 | ★★★ Elvis - avec Fanny | 40m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 26 Sept 2019 | |||
Sustained and balancy climbing. Bring extra small cams & micro wires.
|
|||||||||
2061
points
| 6b+ | ★★★ Motorhead - avec Eric, Sara M | 480m | Grimsel | ★★ Excellent | Lun 13 Juin 2022 | |||
The crack systems are quite flared so there’s not much jamming to be had. Mostly friction slab & laybacking. Very chill & fun but felt a bit hyped. 1hr 30 to walk-in, 4hr30 on route.
|
|||||||||
2060
points
| 7 | ★★★ Vårkåt - avec Fanny, Kjetil | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 22 Sept 2019 | |||
Doesn´t get much better than this. Extra .3-.5 nice & #3 useful for pitches 2/3
|
|||||||||
2055
points
| 7 ~7- | ★★★ Dosethrisset - avec Fanny | 15m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 5 Sept 2019 | |||
2053
points
| 7 A0 7+ | ★★★ Thanatos - avec Sara | 220m | Tromsø | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 28 Août 2019 | |||
Wow! The rumours are true, this is an outrageous line! Too many cookies for me this summer to send the enduro pitch without pulling on gear
|
|||||||||
2042
points
| 7 7 R | ★★★ Korstoget - avec Fanny, Ingrid V | 390m, 3 | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mar 23 Juil 2019 | |||
Some great climbing with one of Presten´s best pitches down low (P3). The runout pitches arn´t so bad. After the 6+ (P7), quality drops off quickly. Because of this, it´s quite common to traverse at Storhylla & finish up other lines
|
|||||||||
2029
points
| 7 | FA ★★★ Joika Ekspressen - avec Rune | 400m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 12 Juin 2019 | |||
2029
points
| 7 | ★★★ Vestpillaren original avslutning (Original avslutning) - avec Rune | 160m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 11 Juin 2019 | |||
The leaning groove pitch would be a crag classic anywhere in the world. Engaging stemming with all of Presten below your feet. Epic!!
|
|||||||||
2027
points
| 6+ | ★★ Lassaley - avec Sofie | 25m | Bohuslän | ★★ Excellent | Mer 11 Mai 2022 | |||
Nice warm up
|
|||||||||
1987
points
| 7-/7 Difficile | ★★★ Djupfjord sprickan - avec Fanny | 20m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 4 Juil 2019 | |||
An absolute classic and the best line on the South Face. Rack is doubles from 0.4 to #2 plus a 3 & 4 for the OW finish
|
|||||||||
1977
points
| 19 | ★★★ Who Among Them - avec The Condawg | 35m | Mt Blackwood Summit | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 23 Fév 2024 | |||
1967
points
| 6 |
★★★ Korstoget
- avec
Andrea O
1
6
35
2
5
40
3
6
40
| 120m, 3 | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Ven 7 Juil 2023 | |||
Korstoget into Vestpillaren
|
|||||||||
1961
points
| 19 ~21 | ★★★ Ramadan - avec Henry | 80m | Ben Lomond | ★★★ Classique | Lun 1 Jan 2024 | |||
1957
points
| 7- | ★★★ Housewives - avec Lo | 30m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Jeu 30 Avr 2020 | |||
My favourite finger crack in Lofoten. Sustained & full value for the grade. Couple of extra finger sized pieces nice.
|
|||||||||
1953
points
| 7- | ★ Running for Rasmus - avec Kjetil, Fanny | 85m | Lofoten | Pourrie | Dim 19 Avr 2020 | |||
Tried to ignore chronic medial epicondylitis from all the salmon murdering. Didn´t go well. Dragged up by my ropeguns (it´s probably a nice route)
|
|||||||||
1952
points
| 7+ | ★★★ Hassan Chop - avec Kjetil | 25m | Bohuslän | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 24 Avr 2022 | |||
2 trys. Seemed a tricky one to onsight. Super fun route!
|
|||||||||
1939
points
| 7a | ★★★ Voie Contamine - avec Eric | 250m | Massif du Mont Blanc | ★★★ Super classique | Lun 20 Juin 2022 | |||
Super high quality route. Fun to be cragging at 3800m
|
|||||||||
1926
points
| 6+ | ★★ Syltetøying - avec Fanny, Ada | Salten | ★★ Excellent | Ven 6 Août 2021 | ||||
1924
points
| 6+ | ★★★ Silhuetten - avec Fanny | 230m | Tromsø | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 28 Juil 2021 | |||
Finished up Silhuetten
|
|||||||||
1924
points
| 6+ | ★★★ Alexis - avec Fanny | 220m | Tromsø | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 28 Juil 2021 | |||
Pleasantly epic. Took extra 0.4-#1, which was nice.
|
|||||||||
1919
points
| 6b | ★★★ Westgrat - avec Eric | 1600m | Salbit | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 18 Juin 2022 | |||
Simul climbed till the 5th tower then ran out of gas & pitched out. Awesome ridge traverse. ~10 hours
|
|||||||||
1912
points
| 22 | ★★★ Pole Dancer - avec Henry | 40m, 12 | Cape Raoul | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 5 Jan 2024 | |||
1912
points
| 22 | ★★★ Blunt instrument/Burning spear P2 Link-Up - avec Henry | 35m, 8 | Fortescue Bay | ★★ Excellent | Mer 3 Jan 2024 | |||
1909
points
| 6+ | ★★★ Vågarisset - avec Alexander | 70m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 9 Juin 2021 | |||
Lives up to the hype. Heavy. Two 4s & 5s plus a sling is your rack for P2. Lower-off is now a nest of cord & tatt, awkwardly placed high on a flake. The well positioned bolts are missing hangers :((
|
|||||||||
1904
points
| 6+ | ★★★ Englevinger - avec Sofie | 85m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 25 Mai 2021 | |||
There won´t be a line for this one but it´s 3 varied & high quality pitches. Deserves it´s Top50 guidebook tag
|
|||||||||
1893
points
| 7- | ★★ Ole Johnny tribute - avec Vegard | 80m | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Mar 1 Oct. 2019 | |||
1891
points
| 7- | ★★ Bingekos - avec Fanny | 120m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mer 25 Sept 2019 | |||
Great climb with 4 varied pitches. The OW (P2) might just be the crux thou it protects well with a standard rack via a broken seem to the left for all but the last 4/5m (where a tipped #6 fits & is nice to have).
|
|||||||||
1890
points
| 7+ | ★★★ Ormen Lange - avec Alexander | 60m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Mer 18 Août 2021 | |||
Nice steep route. Pulled on gear through P2. First bolted anchor is junk but it´s easy to build a stance directly under the 7+ pitch. Rest of the anchors are in good condition (A 70m gets you to the ground from P2)
|
|||||||||
1877
points
| 7- | FA ★★★ Nordvestpassasjen - avec Stian Bruvoll | 370m, 3 | Ofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 10 Août 2019 | |||
Gradually steepening handcrack for 100m plus leads to 2 distinctive crux pitches. #4 & #5 handy.
|
|||||||||
1860
points
| 7- ~6+ | ★★★ Tapir - avec Fanny | 20m, 1 | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Sam 15 Juin 2019 | |||
1859
points
| 7- | ★★★ Klokkeren - avec Rune | 150m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Mar 11 Juin 2019 | |||
1856
points
| 6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - avec Innika | 480m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 3 Juil 2022 | |||
Such a classic line. For parties wanting to move fast, it can safely be done in 7 pitches by simul-climbing to pitch 2 & then again to P5. From here, pitch out as in the guidebook to a nice ledge 10m above the top of slanting corner (just before the loose block and short wide section). 10/11 can then be linked with a 60m & careful rope management
|
|||||||||
1855
points
| 6 | ★★★ Gamle rev - avec Innika | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Jeu 30 Juin 2022 | |||
1845
points
| 7b | ★★★ Perestroika Crack - avec Kjetil | 800m | Karavshin | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 21 Août 2022 | |||
10 pitches. Bailed from storm. All pitches climbed were super high quality.
|
|||||||||
1845
points
| 7 | ★★★ Café Olé - avec Stian Bruvoll | 30m | Bohuslän | ★★★ Super classique | Dim 17 Oct. 2021 | |||
Full value climbing but god damn, this was heavy!
|
|||||||||
1845
points
| 7 | ★★★ Pyspunka - avec Stian Bruvoll | 20m | Bohuslän | ★★ Excellent | Sam 16 Oct. 2021 | |||
1845
points
| 7 | ★★★ Masken - avec Stian Bruvoll | 15m | Bohuslän | ★★★ Super classique | Sam 16 Oct. 2021 | |||
1822
points
| 6+ Facile | ★★★ Blod eller gull - avec Vegard With Stennes | 95m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Mar 25 Août 2020 | |||
A dihedral, roof, OW & some face climbing. Topo says 6+, description says 6 in the guidebook. Either way, crux is short & well protected & there´s lots of nice movement on this one.
|
|||||||||
1821
points
| 6+ | ★★ Ingen sommerferie - avec Fanny | 72m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Jeu 20 Août 2020 | |||
1814
points
| 6+ | ★★★ Vestveggen - avec Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg | 350m | Ofoten | ★★★ Classique | Mar 28 Juil 2020 | |||
Quality climbing, outrageous setting..much less walking than the other routes. What´s not to like?
|
|||||||||
1811
points
| 6 | ★★ Ormbiten - avec Synnøve | 30m | Bohuslän | ★ Bon | Lun 2 Mai 2022 | |||
1810
points
| 6 | ★★ Machete - avec Kjetil | 15m | Bohuslän | ★★ Excellent | Sam 30 Avr 2022 | |||
1809
points
| 6+ | ★★ The Next Best Thing - avec Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg | 380m | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Lun 13 Juil 2020 | |||
Most people I´ve chatted with seem to enjoy this route. I thought it was total shit. I guess some sections of the lower pitches are nice?
|
|||||||||
1808
points
| 6 | ★★★ En liten bit granit - avec Kjetil | 15m | Bohuslän | ★★★ Classique | Sam 23 Avr 2022 | |||
1806
points
| 18 |
★★★ Rajah P1
- avec
Connor
1
| 80m | Ben Lomond | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 20 Fév 2024 | |||
1793
points
| 18 | ★★★ Harlequin - avec Emily | 28m | Freycinet National Park | ★★★ Classique | Dim 7 Jan 2024 | |||
1792
points
| 18 | ★ Rain Of Terror - avec Henry | 30m | Cape Raoul | ★ Bon | Ven 5 Jan 2024 | |||
1792
points
| 18 | ★★ Jihad - avec Henry | 30m | Cape Raoul | ★★★ Classique | Ven 5 Jan 2024 | |||
1792
points
| 18 | ★★★ Sacred Site - avec Henry | 30m, 2 | Fortescue Bay | ★★ Excellent | Mer 3 Jan 2024 | |||
1785
points
| 6+ | ★★ Trollmannens uløselige mysterium - avec Kjetil | 20m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Sam 25 Avr 2020 | |||
#4 for the start & #5 finish works ok
|
|||||||||
1783
points
| 6 ~6- | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - avec Vegard With Stennes | 95m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mer 3 Nov. 2021 | |||
1783
points
| 6 | ★★★ Gamle rev - avec Vegard With Stennes | 110m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Mer 3 Nov. 2021 | |||
Det siste Gandalf klatretur. Kommer til å savne ikke ha dette i bakgården
|
|||||||||
1777
points
| 7- | ★★★ Pan - avec Vegard With Stennes | 130m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Lun 10 Sept 2018 | |||
Really nice climbing all the way to the top
|
|||||||||
1773
points
| 6 | ★★★ Sydpilaren - avec Christopher, Niels | 1100m | Åndalsnes Område | ★★★ Super classique | Mer 29 Sept 2021 | |||
16t bil til bil
|
|||||||||
1756
points
| 6 | ★★ 3-stjerners karbonpudding - avec Fanny, Ada | 120m | Salten | ★★ Excellent | Ven 6 Août 2021 | |||
1756
points
| 21 ~22 |
★★★ Dangerman P1
- avec
Connor
1
| 75m | Ben Lomond | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 20 Fév 2024 | |||
1752
points
| 6 | ★★ Yamamoto - avec Stian Bruvoll | 30m | Bohuslän | ★★★ Classique | Dim 17 Oct. 2021 | |||
1749
points
| 6 | ★ Straight Albatross - avec Fanny, Kjetil | 90m | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Mer 14 Juil 2021 | |||
1725
points
| 6+ | ★★ Vikingjenta - avec Kjetil | 75m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mar 8 Oct. 2019 | |||
Nice varied climbing. The initial lower block sounds loose & vibrates. Use caution/climb at your own risk for this section.
|
|||||||||
1723
points
| 6+ | ★★★ Månedans - avec Vegard With Stennes | 95m | Lofoten | ★★★ Super classique | Mar 1 Oct. 2019 | |||
Så fin! Linked 1/2. P3 is beautiful, sustained finger jamming in a corner before a burly mantle (or not, I was pumped out of my brain by then) followed by exciting slab to the top. Sandbagged at the grade by Lofoten standards. Recommended!
|
|||||||||
1720
points
| 6+ | ★★★ Gandalf original avslutning - avec Fanny | 25m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Sam 21 Sept 2019 | |||
1720
points
| 6+ | ★★ Mjölkmustasch - avec Fanny | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Ven 20 Sept 2019 | ||||
1692
points
| 7- | ★★★ Stör inte blommorna på min led - avec Christoffer | 30m | Bohuslän | ★★★ Super classique | Ven 6 Mai 2022 | |||
Didn’t send. Didn’t see any flowers. Start was hard
|
|||||||||
1689
points
| 6+ | ★★ Variasjon til en variasjon - avec Rune | 45m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mar 11 Juin 2019 | |||
1689
points
| 7 7- | ★★ Laybacksprickan - avec Kjetil | 15m | Bohuslän | ★★ Excellent | Dim 24 Avr 2022 | |||
The knee didn’t fit. Got spanked. Rack was #2, #4 & a #5. Tree anchor up top to lower off
|
|||||||||
1687
points
| 6+ | ★ Mordar Anders - avec Sigve | Lofoten | ★ Bon | Lun 3 Juin 2019 | ||||
1687
points
| 6+ | ★★ Landstrykere - avec Sigve | 140m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Lun 3 Juin 2019 | |||
1685
points
| 6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret - avec Fanny | 20m | Lofoten | ★★★ Classique | Lun 27 Mai 2019 | |||
1676
points
| 6 | ★★★ Lundeklubben - avec Vegard With Stennes | 90m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Ven 13 Nov. 2020 | |||
This line is waaay hyped plus, roof/bulge pitch seeps & will more often than not, be the only wet section on the wall. Not even top 5 on the Festvåg cliffs
|
|||||||||
1644
points
| 6 | ★★★ Vesteggen - avec Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg | 260m | Ofoten | ★★ Excellent | Mar 28 Juil 2020 | |||
1641
points
| 6 ~6- | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - avec Johanne Regine Gustavsen, Sam | 95m | Lofoten | ★★ Excellent | Lun 20 Juil 2020 | |||
P2/P3 can be linked by stretching a 60m. Easier than the neighbouring Gamle rev (perhaps easiest 6 in Lofoten?)
|
|||||||||
1640
points
| 17 |
★★★ Barbe Di Vendetta
- avec
Connor
1
2
| 90m | Ben Lomond | ★★ Excellent | Mar 20 Fév 2024 | |||
2 very nice & chill pitches. P3 looked gross. Rapped (1 with a 80m).
|