Vias em Africa para uma graduação selecionada

Share start with 'Dance of the Bushman'

Route tops out

Starts in the pit. Bouldery start leads to a half-height hard move which requires accuracy of movement and body tension to stick, or some sneaky beta... Compulsary showboat one-arm-hang clip of the 5th draw when sending for full pleasure.

Attacks the grey water streak you can see for miles. Scramble to the top of the chossy pillar then power up and pull on.

SD Sit start far under the roof to climb out of the cave. This route tops out.

The mega linkup; Red Dragon-Johnny-Blackout, by Wesley Black.

After the dyno of Red Dragon, head left through some steep terrain to join Johnny Keep Walking. After the crux of Johnny, head left and up from the roof before joining Blackout for the last 3 bolts.

Sit start with hands on the obvious lowest two flat crimps. Climb straight up via slopey crimps and edges and top out.

Sit start with L-shaped hold. Compress your way through the first few moves and top out on easy terrain.

Start with your feet on the lowest boulders, preclip first bolt. Enjoy the intricate footwork and desperate stabbing for holds. Finish rightwards to for most fun.

Boven‟s 'King Line'. Climb up behind the tree to a ledge then the climbing starts. Up to a shake at a half height then a wicked 10-move boulder problem through the wonderful smooth rock, to good holds. One of the greatest climbs. 70 m rope needed. It is possible to move off-line to a jug far right just before the crux but this is a kop-out and would be graded 30/31.

Not the Steve McClure 9a but pretty cool. Climbs 'The Beast' until 2/3 height then shoot straight up the strenuous crack. A nice variation on the original. 31 if you can get the jams right? use a 70m rope

The route up the middle of the face, was SA‟s hardest climb for many years and still one of the hardest lines in Boven. Solid at the grade, opened at 33. Steel fingers and ace footwork are required. 70 m rope needed.

Blasts straight up to top of the crag via awkward pulls in the roof. Opened using the left sequence at the crux but a sequence on the right is possible.

Does't look hard from below but an absence of any useful holds on the headwall gives plenty of spice. Solid 8b. Starts just left of 'Tripolactic Fairytales'.

The very steep bulge has a bolt in it and anchors and is open for anyone to try..if you feel inspired.

Starts up 'God of Small Things' then moves left then up on very small holds. Opened at 30! Alternative start bolted by A. Pedley, won‟t change the grade and nicer, being independent and direct. Opened at 30..! Needs a 2nd ascent.

Starts from the big block right of 'Boa Rodeo'. One bolt protects the bottom crux followed by some technical, run out endurance sections.

Sit start left hand on the arete feature, right hand on a poor sloper, slap your way up to better pocket holds

Sit start on left arete with left hand on good hold and right hand on rounded sloped edge. Compress up arete. (Pedestal is NOT in).

start as warship but slap out left and climb left through buldge and up face on little crimps

Start far left under roof on jug and traverse right on some pretty poor holds.

Start as landslide but traverse right and finish as sedimentary. Pedestal not in.

Start on obvious jug and move out left via a big move and then trend back right on awesome crimps. A classic problem.

Start as the White tree but after big move go left and up.

Start as HHH but go left hand to a sloper and climb leftish up the face. Complex sequence. Pedestal not in.

Open project.

Open project. 70m rope. Use knee pads and long draws to improve quality of life on this route.

Ask Damien if you can open it for him. Once you’ve both finished laughing, he might well say yes.

Sit down start, left hand diagonal pinch/crimp, right hand small low sidepull, up to a diagonal edge and up slightly to the right in scoop. The starting grip for the left hand has got smaller over time and thus is solid at its grade!

Start standing with left on a good edge and right on a small crimp, dyno up to edge slightly to the right and top out tending left. Can rip your right hand tape the joints to be safe.

Start in the obvious seam, top out with a good spotter. A classic! A crimp at the start has broken but it seems the grade remains unchanged.

Up the middle of the face on small sidepull & crimps just right of Yellow Belly.

Start standing in a scoop with your right in an undercling pocket at head height and your left in a small gaston lower down. Move up to a pocket and finish on jug above the pockets.

Low start on a sidepull for the right and shallow mono for the left up to heucos and crimps. Top out via some rather loose rock. Kilian repeated the problem thinking it was open (error in guide) and named it WEGNEEM, Damian had never given it a name.

Sit start with undercling for left and right in a one finger pocket inside the heuco. Move up to an edge on the right, take pockets and heucos to the bush. The big heuco on the right may need to be off-route.

Sit start if you can with your arms splayed below CHINESE PUZZLE TRAVERSE, starts with two sidepulls, up far to a big edge. Traverse to the top of CHINESE PUZZLE.

A very hard move to turn the lip then easier above.

Stunning stunning stunning. Start on the far R end of the steep ‘chos’. Boulder up diagonally left to a jug on the headwall then bust out left and up the immaculate orange streak above. Doesn’t get any better than this anywhere..except for DW.

Climb the thin crack

Sit-start with LH on a good pocket, RH to a layaway pocket above and climb up.

Start with 'Alpenrösli' behind you

Standing start, climb the white-patched face.

Jump-start to two black holds and climb the adrenaline inducing arête. did the first repeat a year later and thinking it was a first ascent named it Zero Gravity.

Ascent by Matthew Bush

Bum start and do two or three hard moves on crimps to reach a good left side pull then topout.

Start low in the hole then traverse over to Dionysus and do it the hard way

Beta Video

Beta Video

Start as for After School Adventure and traverse right to finish up Swim.

The new sit to the original Himura line. Start low on two opposing good sidepulls. Move right to sharp sloper, big move up to slopey sidepull/pinch, LH to small 2 finger pocket and finish left as Himura.

Video

Landry Lushima

Start as for 'The Squid and the Whale-Original'

1. [16] 35m

   ???

2. [32] 15m

   ???

Roof to the right of Cukoo's nest.

Sit-start on undercling flake (X), hight hand to Porthole (X), left hand to good jug (X). Big move.

No matching on the porthole, and the rail close to big jug at the start is off for feet.

A variety of psychedelic mushroom. Climb The Journey until the crimp rail, then top out direct using the seam on the left.

Video

Start on far right corner of the boulder with both hands on small block. Traverse leftwards along lip and slopers to top-out same as for Chappies and The Essence.

Starts on the far right and climbs around the right hand lip after some tricky roof moves

Start in rail jug and climb up leftish behind the wall behind you and end with a jump dyno. Very good

Start as for Angel's Share, but finish via crimp straight up, on the left side of the small roof capping the boulder.

Sitstart as for Cosmic Horror, climb straight up the overhanging wall on small sloping edges to the triangular jug, move slightly L to TO.

Sitstart on slots, move L and climb the prow to TO. The bottom pedestal is off for feet.

Standstart on slopers in large hueco, move L put of the cave, round to incut crimp with LH, big move up with RH to crimp, move up and L to TO.

Sitstart and climb straight out the groove feature to TO. No dabbing on the smaller boulder in front of the problem.

Start as for High Maintenance and join Eyeball

SS matched in the undercling, LH up to sloper/sidepull, RH up to good edge via large pinch, match and move up and R to small crimps, then big throw to a slopey dish near the top and TO. (jugs on L are off).

SS inside the cave at the back on slopers, climb L and out of the cave, through the cubby hole and up the high face.

sit start on underclings, top out slightly right on face

Same as Shrek, but continue to top out.

Sit start as for Through the Core, do one move to gain the starting holds for The Beast and a Half, then do that problem.

Start at the exit of Through the Core, climb through the cave and TO as for the Beast

Starts as the stand start for Cthulhu and ends to the right of Mysterion Rising

FA by Nicholas Allan

Behind the pacman roof

Cutloose Climbing

After doing Niks is Nodig I linked from the start of Buoyancy into the topout of Niks to make Sitrus is Nodig 7C ... give it a go and let me know what you think. Should be at least 7C seeing as it is definitely harder than Enhanced Coziness. - Chev