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Stuck the crux moves but bailed off the top out after not finding holds I was comfortable with. Had a suss of the holds from top of the boulder but was then too gassed to send it. Nice to make progress and feel comfortable through the starting moves.
Curses! The Unsend! (Replete with red-carpet treatment and private helicopter ride to Melboune). Worst route at Araps?
Seriously, though; I have no words for the scale and magnitude and compassion of everyone who came together to pick me up from the lowest day of my life. I owe a lifetime of hugs and beers, it seems
Harder than V4 i reckon. pebbles and holds have been popped off, some even popped off during our session. made it up once but but slowly leaned onto adjacent left wall. tried again and fractured my foot
Very crimpy holds. Couldn't progress from 2/3's the way up as I'm guessing you need to use the very slippery sloppers. Found a L/H one finger tab pocket but no strength to use it.
Thought better of smearing feet with ground fall potential Thinking a sideways nut or tricam in a little pocket for pro 2m down from bottom of goodflake to protect.
F(*&ing hard. Clearly I am missing something here, although so was everyone else today. Direct start has a side-pull you need to lock to your ankles, and top half has hideous slopers from which I cannot move a muscle. I still haven't seen anyone do it including plenty of people who climb hard, although those who can reckon it's easy. Go figure. Titus felt it was more like 8a (29) !
Potentially logged more time falling than climbing. Got both of the lower awesome cruxes only to be stumped by the "I wanna be punks in the gym" face section with very little feet and sharp side pulls. Was working it (reluctantly) well until I fell 8m, this time on the extended sling bellow, flipping me upside down and heavily bruising my tailbone on impact. So lucky not to have broken anything.
Got up into the last of the underclings before reaching around the lip, but not strong enough to hold my feet on the smears. Very punchy little route and if you have puny little biceps like me you may struggle
