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Upper Tier

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Questões de acesso herdado de Black Hill

Forest Reserve

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Undercut and difficult getting off the ground. Pull up on good locks and through the flaring groove above. Grade 14 above 5m, so makes a reasonable highball boulder problem... although has also been described as "insecure 24 exiting onto the slab at 6-7m with a big dead tree lying on the ground behind you", so you might want to rope it first!

FA: Likely some gumbie in high tops.

Half Man Half Crack then up thin bolted face above (3FH, DBB below capstone). The capstone can be climbed at about 14 on jugs for those committed to topping out. 2018- Apparently some douche has stolen the hangers (which can’t be reached from adjacent crack climbs)

FA: Mark Rewi, 2015

Up Half Man Half Biscuit then continue up the Spyworks headwall. Could be 25.

FA: Mark Rewi

A few of the locals think this is a bit mean at 17. Probably depends when you started climbing!

Warning Fixed Gear: Bad bolt

Half Man Half Biscuit with added spice, this direct variant requires a little bit of jambing, laybacking, stemming and crimping - good value. Up HMHB to a tricky pull over the rooflet then, trending slightly right, follow the bolts up the steepening face. Finish at the top (DBB) or the SpyWorks lower-off below the summit cap.

FA: Martin Jackson & David Nelson, 26 May 2018

Closed Project.

Vertical seams just around the arete from Gingerbread Man to shelf, continuing up the right side of the slab finishing at the Agent WD-40 loweroff.

Slab around left of Half Man, Half Biscuit.

Up right over the diagonal and on up the slab. 5 fixed hangers to lower off.

Can be top roped off DBB on top of the block.

FA: @dalai & T-Bone, 8 Apr 2023

Re established via V7 boulder problem after start holds fell off many years ago. Start directly below first bolt via hard undercling (not the big incut... That's on ugly voyage) then continue.

Rebolted 06/23 with bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Consensus 26 to avoid the broken bits of the previous routes.

Climb to first bolt on BV then traverse into PUM and up. 7 RB.

Rebolted 06/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Rebolted 2021. Five U bolts to lower-off in the slabby scoop. Was originally climbed to the 4th bolt then swung out left onto the slab.

FA: Andrew Cannon & Andrew Stevens, 1988

The right hand slab line round the corner from BV. Spaced RB's.

DRB anchor and replaceable rap rings shared with Sink The Sausage added 04/23. Rebolted 12/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Green slab past 4 RB's to DRB anchor.

DRB and replaceable rap rings added 04/23, rebolted 11/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Slab past 4 RB to DRB

Rebolted 03/23 Anchor added 12/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

FA: Steven Wilson & Robin Holmes

Good edges leads to delicate slabbing. 4 RB to loweroff shared with Deceit.

Rebolted 04/23 Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Delicate start to the 1st RB, then up on easier ground past 3 more RB to DRB loweroff. Rebolted and replaceable rap rings added to the DRB 04/23. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

Fantastic introduction to lay backing. On the boulder just left of 'Deceit'.

FA: Anne Watson & Pete Holmes, 2002

A good steep route with 2 carrot BRs, the top one unfortunately hidden under a layer of lichen.

FA: Dayle Gilliatt & Chris Aicoboaie, 1995

From the common start traverse up right past some looseness to gain line past well spaced bolts. Pretty lively mantle at the top with the last bolt out of sight below!! Rebolted 2010 or so.

Sounds appealing! This is actually a pretty good and significantly harder companion for Anguish. Good face climbing leads to a desperate slab finish past last bolt.

FFA: Mark Rewi, Nov 2016

Outstanding climbing direct up the middle of the face. Classic. FFA Steven Wilson ~2010

Closed Project... essentially a direct start and finish to CM.

Boulder out hard start of Overlord and finish as for Cult Master.

Great moves with a desperate crystal pulling crux. Finishes up Thin Ice

FA: John Miller & Kevin Lindorff, 1992

FA: Pete Stebbins & Kevin Lindorff, 1992

Quality, clean slab climbing to shared ring bolt belay located down a little from old carrot belay on top of block. Rebolted with FH's '23.

FA: 1986

Good climbing up an independant line between Milawa and Rough Diamond. An excellent warm-up/intro. Up the line past 4 FH, then continue up the arete using the last bolt on Rough Diamond. Shared anchor.

FA: John Bentley & Martin Jackson, 22 Oct 2018

The left hand line with hangers. Intricate climbing on featured granite. Be careful with the crazy flake, it's probably solid enough if you don’t pull out, just be gentle! It flexes outrageously. The line has also been climbed without the flake at about the same grade which may be better for all involved! Rebolted '23, shared anchor.

FA: Andrew Stevens

The right hand wall of the gully between 'Frogs Hollow' and 'Milawa'. Move right to a pocket then left to the flake.

FA: Dayle Gilliatt, 1997

At top of Greenpeace gully is an obvious short hand crack flake. Climb it, it’s fun.

The easy slab left of 'Milawa'. Original grade 10 start comes in from the left. Alternatively, there is a direct start at the tip of the nose, or a right hand variant start at the beginning of the gully, both of which are grade 14. Double RB belay.

FA: Andrew Stevens, 1987

Unknown route 1m left of Frogs Hollow. Four non-rusted carrots to the same anchor. Feels about grade 10-11.

Eases once getting to the first bolt. Double RB belay.

Excellent, high quality slab climbing up through a thin seam. Climb past 3 RB's to bomber RP/micro wire placements. Double RB belay. Rebolted 14/23 with bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

FA: Ian Anger & Greg Pritchard, 1985

Direct line via 4 RB's between Scratch and Sniff and Toxic Shock. Will be great if anyone gets round to cleaning it. Shares double RB anchor with Scratch and Sniff.

Rebolted 04/23 with bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

FA: Steven Wilson, 2013

Everyone in the know knows Black Hill 23s are all sand bags but this takes it to a new level... Even Law would have been proud! Excellent climbing on a beautiful subtle line. 23 after the crux start which is desperate!

FA: Ian Anger

Once brushed short steep arete around left of Clostridium Perfringens. No pro.

FA: Peter Stebbins & Andrew Stevens, 1992

This block sits above the top of Milawa, one row of boulders back. Walk off the top of Milawa and head up between two boulders to emerge facing the block. From the summit track it it is one of the first boulders down from the summit. Two rings for belay and descent on top.

A fun easy route. Start on the top of the detached flake and cruise up the line.

Fun Guy is a retro of Clostridium Perfringens which took the left side of the slab protected by clipping the original bolt on Vibrio Parahaemolyticus.

FA: Andrew Corlass, 1986

FA: John Bentley & Martin Jackson, 22 Oct 2018

The line to the right of Fun Guy. Up the face last a fixed hanger, then continue up to a carrot bolt and top out at the same anchors as Fun Guy. Double ring anchor.

Blunt arete 2m right of Vibrio Parahaemolyticus. 1 BR

FA: Peter Stebbins & Ben Holko, 1992

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Data: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Data: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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