DG's Guide

Worst route on this wall - not worth a star. Shared start with Calm My Beating Heart for a couple of bolts then traverse left onto the arete. There is a fair bit of loose rock and scary clips with multiple ledges to hit if you fall off.

Great climbing with some lovely water polished rock down low. The unique pillar stuck onto the cliff near the end of this route looks and feels a bit sketchy but hasn't fallen off yet.

Sustained thin climbing up the guts of the wall. Start as for first bolt of Wee Dram then traverse left and straight up wall.

Heaps of cool featured holds. Stickclip then start steeply and confidently way left.

Left route starting up seam crack feature with bouldery undercut start. Faded "24" written in chalk at the start is probably the official grade. Was grade 23 on first ascent.

Best of these vertical routes. A good pump! Bouldery subtle arete start then easier but still excellent orange wall to finish. Was put up before the next route, graded 22 on first ascent.

Same arete start as for First Mate, then take the right line of bolts that climbs over the lip of the cave. Very questionable rock in the upper section and pretty silly anchor placement.

Up the wall 2m right of Mystery Route 2 under the roof past one high RB then left across break on trad (#5 cam) to join up with bolts on Mystery Route 3.

First of the steep roof routes about 5m right of the vertical orange wall. Maybe 27? Bolted by C. Coghill along with angiotensin, just prior to discovering Egg and Farside so he never returned to free them. Freed 13 years later. Needs a bolt shuffle after roof boulder.

Traverse the horizontal crack rightwards under the roof to lower offs. All trad.

Batman start to second bolt (first bolt destroys quickdraw) up to an impossible to reach fourth bolt (it was the style at the time) , an excellent crux followed by good steep climbing. Double ring anchor at top of wall.

Major steep route in the middle of the cave, steep gymnastic moves to a short crimpy headwall. Be careful clipping the 3rd bolt, FA was done with the 3rd clipped.

The route right of Angiotension. Good steep sustained climbing with a dynamic finish. New crux beta = new grade. Gifted to Gary from HK.

Intense and athletic blast through much steepness. Pronounced crux at second bolt took many shots before hold was dry and heel stayed put. Consider bringing a small blowtorch if its not windy. Stick clip first two ubolts in roof. A small belay bolt keeps rope out of the way also.

Open project. Bolted as such, and trying it does not warrant closing it! Heads right after MPW crux. Intense roof to jug, at around gr. 29 then some non stop superduper hard bouldering to top. Needs a run of dry weather for final hardest meters above hornblower to be dry. Belay boltplate and biner stolen early 2023. Bring a bolt plate to use on bolt left of high stickclip ubolt, rather than MPW belay bolts as route takes a hard right line.

Last the roof routes on the right edge of the cave. Funky steepness. The mallions on 6th bolt are to protect your biner from the edge. Top seeps after rain.

Ringbolted fused corner on right side of cave. Climb the crack (crux) then get on the overhang thru the dinner plates to lower offs.

Contrived squeeze job up the vague arete forming the right side of Chainsaw's corner. Clip the first bolt of Buckaroo if you need to and then head up to the next on the direct. #1 and #2 cam for next placement.

Starts 2m right of Chainsaw Juggler on overgrown slope. Go from the slope to the first bolt, get to the 2nd bolt. Gear from here. Good one if you've got your chick in tow that needs a lead. Hard to clean if you don't have a second. Possibly uses lower-off anchors on Chainsawe Juggler?

Easy trad route up juggy wall 10m right of Chainsaw Juggler.

Crack line splitting the centre of this overhung orange wall. Probably the only line that can go on this wall starting from the ground. Rack - doubles of cams from tips finger size (sub 0.3) to #2 Camalot and single cams of 3, 4 and vital #5. A single set of wires and several long trad runners are also useful. Lastly a narrow bit of untied cord for an important thread near top of pitch 3. Best to bring two ropes - one 60m to fix from tree at top for easy descent - and one rope to lead on. All belays are bolted and on comfy ledges. Leave the #5 Cam on the bolt belay at end of pitch 2 unless you like weight training.

1. 18m (21) Striking left facing finger crack corner. Easier than it looks unless you have jumbo sized fingers. Finish through very steep hanging prow to big ledge (double bolt belay)

2. 13m (20) Undercut major flake feature. Fill the base with big cams and venture upwards! Double bolt belay on small ledge.

3. 25m (22) Traverse right from belay (bolt) for a couple of metres, up, then back left to 2nd bolt. Monkey through steepness above on giant holds (bolt) then vital #0.4 cam in small slot and right to short flake with air to spare. One more bolt, then lob the giant cam in horizontal before traversing left into slabby corner finish. Keep an eye out for thread behind small rock pillar when you can't find any gear and get scared. Bolt right at top to protect icky topout to tree belay.

Far left route starting off small high ledge (scramble up to this). Name and grade may not be correct.

Easy scramble up to orange wall left of grey streak. Name and grade may not be correct.

The grey streak that seeps after rain. Route look dirty, but the rock is mostly good. Three bolt lower off.

One of the best routes here. Right trending orange flake feature. Easier than 24 unless you contrive it.