Ascensões em Mount Banks

3 weeks ago, a proposition was laid down to climb the biggest route the mountains could offer us. Yesterday, that proposition inevitably led to a certain will-never-forget outing. Due to our lack of two cars allowing for the traditional Mt Banks approach from Perry’s lookdown, we opted to camp at the Pierces Pass Carpark. It was here that we left the car at 4.35am and walked down through the pass into the Grose Valley. We made good time, arriving at the presumed river crossing for the uphill bush slog by about 6am. Despite not being able to find any form of a track, the faint morning glow allowed us to admire Mt Banks and determine a direction to head for. This uphill battle for the ridge was anything but enjoyable, although morale was boosted when we surprisingly stumbled perfectly onto the base of the climb, albeit feeling critically juiced.

A quick break saw us setting off on the climb by 7.40am, with smooth sailing up into the eighth pitch. As I made the traverse to the start of the ninth pitch, it was looking like we’d breeze into the 11’o’clock pitch by the time target. But disaster struck when Ross dropped his only belay device. Although ‘skillfully’ he’d directed it straight onto a ledge somewhere on pitch 7. After lowering him down to retrieve it, we were back on track, departing the eighth belay at 11am on the dot. Less than an hour later, I’d say I experienced the finest moment of the day. This was watching Ross step off the edge of the world from the ninth belay and power up the choss scoop, with class, to our designated lunch spot.

The climbing proceeded and the sun joined us momentarily for some sandy slab and grovel. Pitch 14 saw me softly deck onto the ledge from ‘the move’. Upon pulling past this, it became apparent that I hadn’t brought any more carrot plates or even the set of wires up on this pitch. So, I wrapped a sling around a carrot and gingerly continued. Every pitch so far had seen both of us breaking ironstone footers left, right and centre… a fact that I reflected on as I saw the sling subsequently fall off the carrot below me. Willing myself to avoid yet another intimate encounter with the ledge below (only this time from more than twice as high up), I gained the final fixed hanger and gave a belay.

At this stage, we were well and truly marvelling at our height in the valley, soaring way above the rather small Pierces Pass in comparison. However, the wonder soon turned to gassing-out after choosing to link the offwidth pitch 16 and the seeping jungle bash of pitch 17. After, Ross set off on pitch 18, for which the face section had turned a little waterfallish. Pitching it out, he brought me up to the most horrid frozen, windy belay I think I have ever been on. Trying to get us off as fast as possible, I found I couldn’t climb the slab directly above. Confused and slightly concerned, I opted to step out over the void for the hanging crack of which is most definitely the route. It just looked too outrageous to comprehend at first. Freeing the initial moves up the crack on a blindly placed cam was an interesting experience. We topped out just before total darkness at 5:30pm… frozen, bloodied and sore.

At the top we discovered no track whatsoever and set off into extremely thick bush. This. Was. Horrendous. Eveeentually, we came upon the Mt Banks summit walking track and took a breather. From here, we pumped the Valley Uprising soundtrack and Led Zepplin, hitting somewhat of a walking flow state. Made it back to the car at 7:45pm. What a hell of a day!

An absolutely epic route! Climbed with Danny who has already posted a detailed account of our accent, so won't repeat what he has already said. Would thoroughly recommend to anyone who wants an epic and unforgettable day out, however, due to the length and nature of this route this probbaly isn't the best route to do you if don't have much multipitch trad experience! In terms of gear we took double set of cams (.3 to 4), set of nuts (although defiantly didn't need them as only placed about 3 including one over a carrot) and 18 draws + extenders and anchor gear. We went with a twin ropes as wasn't to sure how much choss there would be, and also helped to reduce drag when linking pitches. Apart from dropping my ATC and a bit of wind and water at top of climb we didn't encounter too many difficulties. Most of the gear we placed was bomber, however had many foot and hand holds pop throughout the route! Overall the climb was fairly easy to navigate and anchors were obvious. My favourite pitch was pitch 10 which had some insane exposer! Pitch 6 and 7 (which we linked) were also great. The whole climb took us about 10 hours and the whole day from car to car was just over 15 hours, however, our approach was definitely prolonged by getting lost. Cheers to everyone that helped bolt and open this epic route! Definitely not a climb that I am going to forget!

A nice line up the corner of an amazing climbing location. Good gear pretty much whenever you need it, but not a crack climb.

The 3 trad pitches were excellent quality.

The sport exit pitch nearly killed us.

Rick pulled on a microwave-and-a-half-sized boulder as he was topping out, felt it move and instinctively let go.

The block was dislodged and we think it fell onto his lead rope below and sandwiched it between the two rock surfaces.

He then fell and the force on the rope causes the boulder to fall the rest of the way off the cliff and the forces at play shred (and what looks like melts!) the sheath between the two rocks. There's about 50 cm of exposed core. But, impressively, none of the strands have broken!

I hear "ROCK!" and faceplant against the cliff face and the rock magically falls past me and none of us are dead.

Had to aid through just after the roof.

The moves to gain the face below the roof, and the moves out of the roof, felt quite hard for the grade.

We climbed it as an exit pitch to Pebble Pundits. It was less than ideal to be on this in full sun with a double rack of gear on the waist.

That aside, it earns the stars for the very techy, crimpy, sequence dependent arete climbing. It was sick!

A spectacular line on the outmost edge of the ampitheatre, one of the best locations in the Grose.

I led P1 and P3, James led P2. Occasionally mixed rock quality in places (I blew a hold at the top of P2), but pretty good gear all the way. You can jam, layback, or jug haul up the steepness.

Mega day out.

It is what it is. Pretty sustained, just hung in there for the os.

What a line. Excellent climbing in a stunning location, with the most stonking gear I've placed in the 'Mountains.

We bailed onto Charlie Don't Surf instead of continuing up the dripping second pitch.

p2 only as exit to Thin Line. Harder than the crack pitch.

Accessed via 80m rap and swing. p1 onsight, then rapped and stripped the gear for Azza's flash. Really fantastic pitch of climbing. Rather than p2 which was wet and vegetated, climbed p2 of Charlie Don't Surf which was actually harder than p1.

Some crazy French-free climbing going on to get up this with a pulley injury whilst it’s dripping all over.

Not much to say about the route, seemed like some fun sequences, But I’m disgusted with the amount of glue on this route. Apparently we’re now manufacturing climbs on the rock

Lives up to the hype, and now takes first place for best gear route I’ve done. The movement, the position, the gear, the rock. It’s all perfect (1st pitch only, T&Cs apply).

Seth took the lead so that I wasn’t tempted to push myself on the injured finger, but I think I almost preferred the toprope lap (please don’t hold it against me). It meant that I could just cruise up the perfect line, enjoying the movement without having to think about what might come next, and without stopping constantly for gear.

There’s no way it goes at 24, and I think it might also go entirely on passive gear, so might give it a crack next time I’m out here. Top pitch was absolutely drippingly soaked, so we topped out on the bolted line adjacent (also wet).

10/10, do this route.

Did it in 2 pitches, which meant I got to climb the entire length of the thing without stopping!

Crux is definitely the top pitch. The money pitch is awesome, but only 20, maybe 21.

Definitely chosen rock and some vegetation to fight but cool climbing and heaps of gear options

Lews birthday adventure, swinging leads. Phyced that there is a very unlikely crack that runs up the arete, really enjoyed this one from bottom to top. I think the grade on this will scare alot of people away. Gear was great imo and rock was also quite good. Lulu was the surprise! Crack fu turns into arete hugging pretty quick!

Rad line, lil bitta choss here and there but the trad flowz and airy position make up for it. Linked with upper south bowens canyon for a full day of bushbashing and onsighting

A great fun route. Very cruisy for 23, the grade might scare some people off. Super unique wih a crack on arete. Highly recommended! Go learn what crack-fu is.

My stoke meter was going off the scale on the second pitch. A unique line dissecting the arete with a series of thin flakes scoops and cracks. This geomorphological masterpiece deserves its place the blue mountains trad renaissance gallery. Climbs comfortably on a double rack, the position and the line are excellent and the rap-in is quite well described. I’ve definitely climbed a few 20’s harder than this . Go do it!

Excellent route, a bit chossy at the start( I broke a footer after first few meters) but well protected. Pretty comfortably climbed on a standard rack. With some creative nut placements big cams are not necessary, extenders are a must. Did it as 2 pitches, belaying at the bolts. Both pitches felt of similar difficulty

Great climb with quite hard cruxy sections for me , but then I don’t get in the mountains that much at the moment. Good gear all the way.

Excellent route. Managed to get all the moves but had a fall after burning out on the first crux. Then needed to take a rest before heading out under the main roof (a few hand puddles up there).

Just aided through - to access Thin Line of Reprieve.

2nd pitch only as a finish to Thin Line of Reprieve. Started off ok but quickly realised I didn't have enough energy left.

I thought I was on Hornet but I found myself unknowingly on the top half of the top pitch of this. It's currently dirty, unchalked and thin. Not the cruisy end to the day we were seeking.

Cool hollow flake but also scary hollow flake. The roof pull seemed a bit tough for 22 but I squeaked through. The rest just got harder and harder until I rested on the rope as I was red lining. It turns out I was actually on the top pitch of Dialectic - which was why it felt way hard for 22.

Second pitch only as an exit to Thin Line of Reprieve. Another great pitch of climbing! Cool sequences between rests.

What a fucking route. The 24 pitch only - mega well protected climbing the whole way! Way excellent and pretty stoked for the onsight (if you don't count not being blindfolded for the abseil in).

If you're looking for beta - it's not that hard. Plenty of bridging - my right calf was pretty pumped half way up. I took the full suggested rack plus 15 draws. I was left with 12 draws, almost all my nuts, and a single each of 0.3 to 2 by the anchor. Take a couple of sling draws, a couple of regular draws and leave the rest at home.

Was ok, gear was the hardest part, rock quality a bit low

In running with evolution for the best 24 in Australia! Same quality as conquistador but with mega location!