Grade | Via | Estilo de equipamento | Qualidade | Climber | Data | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
West Face (Main Area) Lower Cliff Subjacent | ||||||||
9 |
Subconscious
![]() | 42m | Average | Sat 18th Nov 2023 | ||||
Found the 20m juggy grey wall below a small orange overhang. Grade 5 lichen jugs, ledge at 6m, vegetated crack at 8m so could be pro enough to go. Made 3 moves and retreated.
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3 |
Subterfuge Direct
![]()
1
3
10m
2
| 10m, 1 | Average | Sat 18th Nov 2023 | ||||
Scrambled up on left of pillar to close-up the '67 bolt seen from below. Just as well, as no ancient climbs marked and very hard to see what's what from below. Cam break atop pillar as excellent as the view of the Three Sisters across the valley. Right-leaning crack above will go on trad, not a piton in sight.
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23 |
★★ Reality Check
![]() | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Jan 2017 | ||||
ALMOST a classic. Very sustained and intense steep-ish technical face climbing on beautiful rock. This route looks impossible from the ground! Like a longer (and probably harder) version of The Cramps at Theory of Negativity Wall , this felt TOUGH with no chalk or wear on the holds and I only just squeaked it. The long crux section will test the diversity of your technique, as well as your footwork. Easier climbing once you get to the arête, though steep and very exposed.
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23 |
★★ Reality Check
![]() | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Nov 2019 | ||||
Nice wall - untrafficked!
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23 |
★★ Reality Check
![]() | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Mar 2020 | ||||
Good moves, reasonably sustained
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20 |
★★★ Gormenghast
![]() | 28m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Jan 2017 | ||||
In the upper echelon of Very Good, and a true landmark feature of a scale and intimidation that is rare for Blueys Trad. I offwidth'd a bit more than Neil, but Monty demonstrated that it can be done entirely through stemming, so no need to get your thrutch on. I climbed this mostly as a sport route, using the 5 bolts, 2 cams, and 1 thread in 30m. Rock quality is mostly brilliant, with only a few sections of sandy junk. The ending traverse out right is exhilarating, though I accidentally cheated the end by going directly up the slab from the end of the traverse, and moving back left a metre or so to the anchors (you're supposed to step back left above the roof, and go straight up to the anchor).
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20 |
★★★ Gormenghast
![]() | 28m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Jan 2018 | ||||
Amazing wide corner crack. It was hard to find it, but Jake and Dan weren’t giving up that easily. Intimidating at first, but once you’re on it, it just flows. We do not own huge gear, so we had to dig deep and fill in the worrying space between bolts with whatever we could get. In order from bottom to top, #3, #4, #1, #.75, another #.75 on flake on roof ( which looked sketchy as) an another #1 on break just around the arete as you shimny out of the roof. While placing that piece on the roof, I managed to lock in a solid knee bar, which allowed me to stay there, no hands, getting the best placement on the sketchy flake.
One thing o need to mention, that flat foot/ hand hold on the edge of the crack, less than a meter down from the 3rd bolt, is about to break off!!! I pulled on it and it creaked. You can see the hair like cracking all around it. I will come off and it’s fairly big. It’s worrying because the belayer has no where to run if that comes down. Beware and have your helmets on.
Great adventure hands down!
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20 |
★★★ Gormenghast
![]() | 28m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Jan 2018 | ||||
What a line! When you arrive, you turn the corner in the scrub below and BANG! Your hit with the view of a massive, intimidating corner crack! My first thought was we don’t have any gear big enough for this thing! Luckily there a few spaced bolts too ease the mind with some small gear placement in between. Take 2 x green .75,1,3,4. The crack climbs really well on mostly good rock with only a few breaky bits, the finish is very exciting stepping out over the void.
No offwidth skills required.
Was definitely worth the bush bash to find this beauty!
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20 |
★★★ Gormenghast
![]() | 28m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 3rd Jan 2019 | ||||
Really great and intimidating 'stemming corner'. Didn't place a heap of trad as there isn't a heap of trad to place. Maybe did one arm bar and a knee lock thing but that was it for thrutching. Definitely worth the painful slog in the heat and a route I've been meaning to do for a long while.
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20 |
★★★ Gormenghast
![]() | 28m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | Tue 5th Feb 2019 | ||||
For only an extra 10 minute of walking. We were treated to this steep gaping and intimidating corner. It was great fun! You really only need a single rack to #4 and a 6 if you want to keep things ultra sane. Would be cool to do a tube chock or big bro ascent in the FA Style. The roof is awesome fun aswell just don't think to hard about it haha. Great work on bringing this route to life Neil! hardest mixed onsite too I believe
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19 20 |
★★★ Gormenghast
![]() | 28m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 2nd Nov 2019 | ||||
an offwidth with no compulsory offwidth moves. You only need a no.1 camalot near the bottom, a number 6 to recycle btween bolts and a number 4 is easy at the right edge of the roof.
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20 |
★★★ Gormenghast
![]() | 28m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Mar 2020 | ||||
Every off width should be like this one because it doesn’t require any off-width moves
|
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20 |
★★★ Gormenghast
![]() | 28m, 4 | Fri 27th Nov 2020 | |||||
20 |
★★★ Gormenghast
![]() | 28m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Nov 2022 | ||||
A beautiful line and fantastic bridging corner, slightly marred by the dodgy choss finish. Broke a footer off and fell when stretching wide around the roof, trying to avoid the mega choss flake above your head.
Otherwise went clean and was well worth the bush bash. Only used the #6 cam with the bolts all the way to the end of the roof, then a 0.5 horizontal to protect the top. Would've been a classic if it just finished at the hands free ledge below the roof |
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20 |
★★★ Gormenghast
![]() | 28m, 4 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 31st Mar 2024 | ||||
Super classic. Worth the walk.
|
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9 |
Sublimation
![]() | 46m | Average | Sat 20th Feb 1965 | ||||
19 |
★★ Guilty Remnant
![]() | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th May 2016 | ||||
Following Neil's FA, good fun , in a cool position, with nice views. Start is a little goey but the rest is cruisy fun
|
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19 |
★★ Guilty Remnant
![]() | 24m, 9 | ★ Good | Sat 7th Jan 2017 | ||||
A hard (relatively speaking) but interesting start, then extremely easy climbing up an exposed arête. Reasonable rock quality. Not a true tick, as I broke a hold off on super-easy ground and fell off in the upper half.
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19 |
★★ Guilty Remnant
![]() | 24m, 9 | Thu 4th Mar 2021 | |||||
Bit of a bash to get to but worth it for that view.
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19 |
★★ Guilty Remnant
![]() | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 4th Mar 2021 | ||||
Went exploring and fold gold to warm down on.
|
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19 |
★★ Guilty Remnant
![]() | 24m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 22nd Nov 2023 | ||||
Nice route. Tricky start, then a nice cruise. Well bolted
|
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West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Northern Walls | ||||||||
15 |
Andronicus Walls
![]() | 110m | Mon 9th Nov 2020 | |||||
20 |
★ World of Wander
![]() | 110m | ★ Good | Sun 10th Oct 2021 | ||||
Second ascent.
One star at the moment but with traffic it will be 2 star. If you have climbed whymper you will love this. Pitch 3 is great! |
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20 |
★ World of Wander
![]()
1
19
35m
2
18
30m
3
20
25m
4
17
15m
| 110m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 15th Feb 2022 | ||||
An enjoyable morning. First 3 pitches have some really nice climbing, albeit average rock quality in places. Will clean up with more traffic.
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20 |
★ World of Wander
![]() | 110m | Average | Fri 4th Nov 2022 | ||||
Hard start without the tree. Average rock. Pitch 3 is the only one worth climbing
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20 |
★ World of Wander
![]() | 110m | Average | Sun 8th Jan 2023 | ||||
This route requires experience due to the rock quality - particularly at the top of pitch 2 where some very large blocks are detached and wobbly. Pitch 3 roof is about grade 21. I led P1 and P4/P5 linked
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20 |
★ World of Wander
![]() | 110m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Mar 2023 | ||||
Really good climb. Varied. More interesting than Whymper. A worthy addition to the cliff.
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20 |
★ World of Wander
![]() | 110m | Average | Sun 28th May 2023 | ||||
Freezing cold fingers make for numb climbing. Stepped on massive block on P1 which is now in the valley. P2 also saw a large hold ripped off... now in the valley. P3 has blank section with a few signs of previous holds, which is now closer to grade 21. Loose block on P1 belay is a worry. Loose blocks on P2 belay are a nightmare. Even the ones that aren't wobbly are flexing under body weight.
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20 |
★ World of Wander
![]() | 110m | Average | Sun 28th May 2023 | ||||
Lots of loose rock. Also broke a few holds. Be very carful on this one especially if there are others below you.
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20 |
★ World of Wander
![]() | 110m | ★ Good | Mon 31st Jul 2023 | ||||
Some good climbing amongst some very dodgy rock which adds a bit of spice! First three pitches is cool. The rock quality and the final pitch keeps it at 1 star though I think
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20 |
★ World of Wander
![]() | 110m | ★ Good | Sun 7th Jan 2024 | ||||
Beware, loose rock
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20 |
★ World of Wander
![]() | 110m | Sun 30th Jan 2022 | |||||
11 |
Medusa
![]() | 140m | Sat 24th Jul 2004 | |||||
11 |
Medusa
![]() | 140m | 2000 | |||||
West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls | ||||||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Average | Sun 1st Aug 2010 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Nov 2009 | ||||
With Erico, His longest route to date. An absolute classic! A little steep in places, and a cpl of big moves.
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Nov 2009 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 1st Sep 2009 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★ Good | Wed 8th Apr 2009 | ||||
Led P1,3,5 with Olly. Exciting and loose but will clean up and be a classic. Drop drop things on the Sweet Dreamers below!
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 25th Mar 2010 | ||||
Great exposed, slightly steep arete.
On grade at 19.
|
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 24th Mar 2010 | ||||
On grade most of the way through
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★ Good | Sun 4th Apr 2010 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★ Good | Mon 7th Jun 2010 | ||||
Well named ; )
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 17th Dec 2011 | ||||
P1 John Shaw, Tough start
P2 Me, Classic
P3 John
P4 Me, grade 19 really?
P5 John
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 30th Dec 2011 | ||||
found a huge loose block (about 1m wide, maybe 60kg?) just after first carrot of 4th pitch... Watch out!!
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Jan 2012 | ||||
Awesome climbing! Very exposed the whole climb. Absolute classic multi. Lead P2 and P4
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 10th Apr 2012 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Jun 2012 | ||||
Had my biggest ever top rope fall when a hold broke on the traverse at the start of pitch 2, I had to prussic back on to the route because I was left dangling in thin air
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19 |
★★★ Whymper P1
![]()
1
19
linkup Smack my Pitch Up
, lead by
Benn Van Balen
| 150m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 8th Aug 2012 | ||||
Eventually joined up with Smack my Pitch Up and then to Sweet Dreams. Start was tough.
|
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19 |
★★★ Whymper (Whymper Linkup Lead)
![]()
1
19
linkup Lead
, lead by
Albert
2
18
linkup Third
, lead by
Brian
3
19
linkup Third
, lead by
Scott
4
19
linkup Third
, lead by
Brian
5
16
linkup Lead
, lead by
Albert
| 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 26th Sep 2012 | ||||
One of the best climbs I have done to date, amazing exposure. 4th pitch hardest... Never seen my forearms so pumped before, so glad I wasn't leading.
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Average | Wed 31st Oct 2012 | ||||
As a party of three with Andrew and Pete. Nice climbing, but not the best rock. There were a few shenanigans involving a missed belay station (my fault). Seconding some of the pitches on a single half rope with all those ironstone bands was pretty unsettling and resulted in more than one draw being pulled on.
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Sun 13th Sep 2009 | |||||
p1,p3,p5 led. p2,p4led with toddy
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Sat 19th Sep 2009 | |||||
p2,p4 led. p1,p2,p3 2nd with hugh. scramble/jog barefoot to base. done car to car in just over 2 hours
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Jan 2013 | ||||
Climbed as a group of 3, done 3 hours car to car. P1 - Onsight (18), P2 - Second Clean (18), P3 - Onsight (18/19), P4 - Second Clean (19), P5 - Onsight (16). No harder than dirty rotten pig or west face of the mirrorball, but more exposed. P3 is an airy gem on tiny ironstone teeth, and P4 has a funky headwall. Rock is quite reasonable, and none of us broke off anything. Interesting climbing in a nice location, a great way to cap off a day at the office.
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Sun 5th May 2013 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Tue 14th May 2013 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 20th May 2013 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th May 2013 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Sat 3rd Sep 2011 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 18th Aug 2013 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 19th Oct 2013 | ||||
What an absolutely awesome route! Amazing exposure, fantastic 3rd pitch on arete, so much fun.
P1 - Lead onsite P2 - 2nd clean P3 - Lead onsight - what an awesome pitch on arete - best pitch in the blueys I've climbed so far. P4 - 2nd dog up the roof with the backpack. P5 - Lead in the dusk - Thank f**k I packed the head-torch for the 2nd - Tim was climbing in the dark! Easy walk out, great adventure. |
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 4th Jan 2013 | ||||
Alternated leads with Al. Fantastic exposed climbing!
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Wed 13th Nov 2013 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 27th Nov 2013 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 15th Dec 2013 | ||||
Brilliant, exposed climbing.
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Sun 19th Jan 2014 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Feb 2014 | ||||
Good climbing in an exposed position. Was a bit worried about breaking holds at times, but it looks like the fragile ones have already gone. bit under 3hrs car to car.
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 19th Apr 2014 | ||||
Awesome climb, ticked 4 of 5 pitches, one rest on pitch 4.
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 21st Apr 2014 | ||||
awesome climb! first 19 onsight! i found it very hard to spot the carrots though..
|
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 21st Apr 2014 | ||||
Unreal climbing. Just unreal.
|
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 27th Apr 2014 | ||||
2nd time on Whymper, better conditions this time.
Ticked all pitches.
|
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th May 2014 | ||||
Amazing route!!!!
Lead pitches 1, 3, 5.
Having had a few footers blow out on the exposed traverse on the 2nd pitch, my head just wasnt there today and sketched out in sections of this climb. Still such a rad day climbing! |
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 11th May 2014 | ||||
Brilliant climbing. There are two long moves that may trouble the shorties, and one of them is right at the ground.
|
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Fri 23rd May 2014 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 20th Jun 2014 | ||||
Great climbing in the dark, beautiful to look up and see the stars on the blueys one last time before heading back to nz. lead pitches 1,3,5 only had 6 bolt plates had to play 1 - 2 skip a few, 8 would have been nice.
|
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Tue 15th Jul 2014 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Sep 2014 | ||||
Good fun!
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Average | Tue 23rd Sep 2014 | ||||
Was a bit disappointed with this as my first bluies multipitch. Rock looks average but held together.
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 24th Sep 2014 | ||||
Awesome exposure feelings! One of the most fun multies I have done! I would give it 4 stars for the third pitch.
|
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 24th Sep 2014 | ||||
Awesome traverse fun exposure
|
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Sat 11th Jan 2014 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 9th Oct 2014 | ||||
With Luke...OS: p2, p4. 2nd clean with 10 kg+ pack: p1, p3, p5. P3 & 4 are the money. Lots of jagged edges and scars where holds popped under feet and hands, so no classic status, but the exposure is superb. Coming out of the cave on p4, provides an apt name.
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th Oct 2014 | ||||
Lead pitches 1, 3, 5 - seconded Zach up 2 and 4. The climbing was cool (especially coming out of the cave and all of the traverses into space) but the location was spectacular. Why carrots though for a climb FAed in 2009? Great nonetheless.
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 10th Oct 2014 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 19th Nov 2014 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 30th Nov 2014 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 1st Dec 2014 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★ Very Good | Fri 19th Dec 2014 | ||||
Finally got back on this after our last attempt ended in a rescue mission on sweet dreams (still missing our gear 2 years on). Pretty nice, 4th pitch the best I think.
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th Jan 2015 | ||||
Great Climb with awesome position and tasty exposure! Full mix of carrots, hangers and rings. Awesome fun.
|
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Fri 2nd Jan 2015 | ||||
First time back since witnessing Vanessa and her partner's unlauded rescue. Even better than I remembered.
|
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 19th Jan 2015 | ||||
Pitch 4 is just as scary and exposed as pitch 3. So much fun!
|
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Sat 28th Feb 2015 | |||||
Great climbing, tread delicately...
|
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 5th Mar 2015 | ||||
Just incredible.
Breath taking exposure, brown pants traverses, beautiful sequences. Loved watching Will psyching up to dead point throw above a bolt facing a whip into the void.
|
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Mar 2015 | ||||
Wow. Tricky getting off the ground but then amazing climbing particularly on the arête.
|
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 17th Mar 2015 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★ Good | Sat 10th Jan 2015 | ||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Wed 8th Apr 2015 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | Thu 9th Apr 2015 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★ Very Good | Thu 22nd Oct 2009 | ||||
Must have been prettty new when we did it (2009). Ironstone edges snapping off frequently. I'm sure its a dream now (with a lot less holds).
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19 |
★★★ Whymper
![]() | 150m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th May 2015 |