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Went for the original start instead of the much cleaner looking 'Cynics United', in the hopes of getting some nice jams up the hand crack. We never found it, just a lot of loose dirt, vegetation and choss.
The upper pitches were nice though. Linked P3 and P4. Stitched up the P3 start but it's actually fine if you just traverse left rather than treating it like a roof. Awkward in a few places with a pack on. Did pretty well with rope drag up until my very last piece on P4 since I was out of long slings.
Tried to link first two pitches to get some more climbing in, so lowered off after a long traverse to toprope these two pumpy sustained pitches. Ended up by climbing the last pitches of sweet dreams.
Thought Tom Thumb was just a little better. Didnt place a nut, but could have. Could have used a size 4 cam too!
Nice high DRB with good vision to previous belay. The now standard trad finish had a hairy little hand traverse heading left once the crack reaches the ferny scoop. I think an offset nut would have been mint to protect this move until you can plug a green cammie in the horizontal.
Had a mare, down climbed multiple times before finding the largest foot hold I've ever not seen and doing the moves comfortably... Probably on the wall for 30 mins
